Rear Main Seal - 1MZ

[psyclemania]

Have the clutch out, trying to figure the best approach for the RMS. It's mounted in a plate.

Should I remove the plate or attempt to get it out/in while on the engine? The trans is pulled to the side, not out of the car, so space is limited.

Someone told me you have to drop the pan to remove the plate. True? (1MZ V6)

[Eye8Pussies]

plate? there is a spacer plate on top of the seal, yes, but once you slide that off, you can get the seal out.

no need to remove anything else (presuming you have the flywheel off already

[psyclemania]

Well the flywheel is off. I dont remember anything of a spacer on top of the RMS. It is sitting right there. But the RMS sits in a plate that is basically the back part of the engine. This plate it bolted. If you can remove that plate you can take the RMS over to a workbench and get out the old seal and put in the new one which is like 4"-5" in diameter. Then you can replace the plate onto the back of the engine, bolting it back on. But I am afraid that the oil pan has to drop to get that plate out. That is what I am asking. And if that would be more work than it's worth. I think getting that large seal out/in in a confined space, where it is now isnt going to be that easy either.

[Eye8Pussies]

oh...that plate...don't take the plate off....the seal comes out without removing that plate

[psyclemania]

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

oh...that plate...don't take the plate off....the seal comes out without removing that plate

Yep! Sort of answered my own question last night. After a bit of cleanup with brake cleaner and a rag, I looked it over closely. With the V6 there is a steel oil pan that has to come off, then the 'real' aluminum one has to come off, then that plate with the rear mail seal.

BUT ...

That retaining plate doesn't need to come off. I was freaking out over this seal, especially when a seasoned mechanic there told me "Unless it's leaking like crazy, don't replace it! It will just leak more with a new one becasue the old one is seated in and worn into place." I just could NOT see leaving that there when I was looking right at it with a new OEM seal in my hand.

Bottom line:

It was THE easiest seal I have ever done in my life. The old one popped right out with a small flat blade screwdriver and a bit of old bicycle inner tube as padding at the fulcrum point. Just jam it into the seal (destroying it), pad the shank against the crank, and pry. Two or three places and out it pops. The Hayes manual said getting the lip of new one over the crank was difficult because it's stiff, but I put a super thin layer of grease on the seal lip, the crank and the outside of the new seal. It then slipped right onto the crank, and I pressed it in pretty much with my fingers. A few taps with a rubber mallet and it was exactly where it needed to be.