Removing plastic (left side windshield) inside the car to install alarm's antenna ? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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Old 09-30-2009, 09:59 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Removing plastic (left side windshield) inside the car to install alarm's antenna ?

Hi everyone,


I would like to install the antenna this way. I think that's the best place to have best reception (2-way alarm system) (unless I can drill a hole on the car's roof and stick the antenna on top).

Do you know any instructions, and tricks as well as precautions when removing the plastic cover on the pillar (left side of windshield) to hide the wire (the wire is not small, it's almost the size of computer network cable) ?

Do I pry the plastic off on the side touching the window-door ? With a screw-driver ? Is it glued or is there a plastic hook ?

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR USEFUL COMMENTS.

Last edited by sintox; 09-30-2009 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I took that off for my 2000 Camry to run a hardwire power cord for my radar detector.
There's plenty of room behind there, should have a problem running a fat wire there.

Not sure if it's exactly the same for Gen 3, but ...
Basically pull it straight off, held in by, IIRC, 4 clips. I'd recommend starting from the roof side above the door then move down to the windshield. Might be a bit hard the first time, but it'll come off if you just pull on it.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It easily pulls right off just using your fingers. I also put the status LED on that panel. Once you have it off you will see cables ran down that side that you can zip tie the antenna wires to. I first had my antenna mounted right in the same place as your picture but it bugged me seeing it there. So I moved it to the space between the rear view mirror and head liner. You can easily run the cable from the top of plastic panel up under the head liner then over. It looks much more discrete and plus I got better all around reception. Especially when walking up behind the car.
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Old 09-30-2009, 01:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by #2! View Post
So I moved it to the space between the rear view mirror and head liner. You can easily run the cable from the top of plastic panel up under the head liner then over. It looks much more discrete and plus I got better all around reception. Especially when walking up behind the car.
Ok, I'll put it in the top-middle of the windshield too this weekend. Is it better Antenna pointing up (not nice because of the cable), pointing down, or sideways ?

My cable is black, can I hide it easily ? (going from corner to middle of windshield).
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Old 09-30-2009, 01:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Point the antenna down just because of the cable. Get the back end where the cable is as close to the head liner as possible that way very very little of the cable will be visible at all. If its like mine that can be disconnected right from the antenna I just didn't like the idea that someone could see that wire and yank it out to disable it.
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Old 09-30-2009, 01:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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My cable is black, can I hide it easily ? (going from corner to middle of windshield).
You mean the plastic panel to the head liner?
If so the cable will not be visible at all at this point.
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Old 09-30-2009, 02:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I am really really board so here are some pics.


Antenna behind rear view mirror


Showing clearance between the back of the antenna and the head liner.


Showing how there is no wire exposure when going from the plastic panel to the head liner.

Last edited by #2!; 09-30-2009 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 09-30-2009, 02:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintox View Post
Ok, I'll put it in the top-middle of the windshield too this weekend. Is it better Antenna pointing up (not nice because of the cable), pointing down, or sideways ?

My cable is black, can I hide it easily ? (going from corner to middle of windshield).
i have the same antenna in my 2-way system. you should be okay with it facing down. you can also push the flat network cable underneath the headliner...i can take pics if you'd like.

EDIT: nevermind....mine is done the same way as above. lol
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Last edited by LynchburgCSI; 09-30-2009 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok, I can only understand the first pic posted by #2. The other pics I can't picture. Some legend underneath each pic please

BTW, don't worry: Even if they cut the cable going to the antenna unit, the horn will keep sounding. Only way to stop: cut the main's unit power cable or the horn cable.

I know that pointing down will reduce the range (though not as much as having the antenna lower (lower-left corner of windshield for example). Best place is still pointing up, at a highest location on the car).

The 2way alarm is rated 3000 ft (0.9 km) . But the way they tested it maybe: putting the antenna outside on the roof so 0% of signal is reduced by the steelsheet door and roof.
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok, I can only understand the first pic posted by #2. The other pics I can't picture. Some legend underneath each pic please
Got it


Which alarm do you have?
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It's a 2way alarm, forgot the name right now but they all have the same look and operations these days, using FM frequency, same short monopole antenna (actually it's a helix inside).

The valet button is on the antenna unit. The remote has a screen with picture of the car. Screen tells you a clock, if door open, car running, etc.

4 buttons.

BTW, I have a small question and don't want to create a new thread:
If I open the trunk, the trunk-light will light up (so you can see things in the dark). That means there's a switch like in the fridge.

But, on the instrument panel, there is no warning about the trunk is open.

Is it the way it is for all Camry LE 92-94 ?

I need to know this 'coz I want to connect my alarm's trunk-input wire to the trunk-status wire (for now, I leave it open).

PS: Not to confuse with the trunk-output wire which is not standard feature for all Camry LE and CE (cable pulling lock).

Last edited by sintox; 09-30-2009 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintox View Post
BTW, I have a small question and don't want to create a new thread:
If I open the trunk, the trunk-light will light up (so you can see things in the dark). That means there's a switch like in the fridge.

But, on the instrument panel, there is no warning about the trunk is open.

Is it the way it is for all Camry LE 92-94 ?

I need to know this 'coz I want to connect my alarm's trunk-input wire to the trunk wire (for now, I leave it open).

PS: Not to confuse with the trunk-output wire which is not standard feature for all Camry LE and CE (cable pulling lock).
easiest way is just to run the wire to the trunk light. youre gonna have to snake it allllll over the place though....kinda a pain. I ran mine underneath the molding on the floor on the left side of the car back to the speaker deck then through into the trunk.
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I ran wire from the red/white light wire inside the trunk to the trigger input. I didn't want to do that but really it wasn't all that bad. I ran 2 wires back there (one for the trigger and one for a trunk pop). They fit under the floor trim and then up behind the back seat then right into the trunk.
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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EDIT: MY ALARM IS A CARVOX.

So that is confirmed that the front instrument panel has no warning light when the trunk is open or ajar right ? (that means there is no wire going from the trunk-switch to the front).

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Originally Posted by #2! View Post
I ran 2 wires back there (one for the trigger and one for a trunk pop).
What Camry model do you have ? How come you have the electric trunk pop feature ? Or you just install yourself a trunk solenoid ?

Last edited by sintox; 09-30-2009 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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There is no trunk ajar light in the dash. I have a 96 LE I4. I installed a trunk pop solenoid and would not recommend. I have spent a total of about 10 hours trying to get it to work correctly and now it works about 60% of the time. The long pull required to open the trunk kinda screwed up that project.
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