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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 09-30-2009, 06:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1mz engine removal

What points do I use to remove 1mz motor from my sandrail. What is the best points to lift with a cherry picker?
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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there a lift hook on the back side of the intake and a i guess you and use the front mount to hook on to a well
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:59 AM   #3 (permalink)
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after you have everything disconnected properly... there are two hooks... at least there should be... there should be a black rounded hook in the front...
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Old 10-01-2009, 11:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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newer 1mz's don't have the hooks. there's a few beefy threaded holes where the hook/hanger would be on the front cylinder head (on the side pointed away from the direction the upper intake plenum points), and i believe there are some matching ones on the other cyl head as well. it's probably a good idea to use BOTH of these holes with your own hook bolted in rather than just sticking a bolt in it with a piece of chain on it.
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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the more you can spread out the force due to engine weight the better....
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
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hey bud,
So i didn't have hooks...ive pulled and installed the motor like 4 times in my car never having a problem. i used (most of the time) the two allen head bolts on the lower to upper intake plenum as well as the two 14mm (i believe) bolts that go with it. in total, there are 4 bolts that bolt the upper and lower intake together. i used all of them, with no problems. The engine (without the tranny) probably only weighs about 300 lbs. Me and my buddy actually dead lifted it and carried it down 2 stairs lol. otherwise, you can use the torque strut mount and put a engine to tranny bolt in there just to get it situated, then use pump-style car jack to hold the engine in place and get all the holes lined up. the engine is light since it is an aluminum block, so you should be fine with the method i used. just make sure that it dissipates the force as much as possible. I also had a load leveler which helped - a lot. hope that helps!
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I just finished a swap yesterday, and I used one of those yellow lift straps. I hooked one end to the rear lift hook, ran the strap through the hoist's hook, then the other end down and around the front exhaust manifold, and hooked the loop to the hoist hook. Worked very well. Sorry I didn't think to shoot some pics.
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