97 Camry engine shutoff at stop sign/light

[icoben]

97 Camry LE 4 cylinder, 157K miles.
Today, the engine stopped working twice at stop light or stop sign. (after warm up)
I restarted it the first time.
The second time, I tried several times to start the engine, hardly to start, like the battery is dead. But, I just changed the battery at Walmart 4 month ago.

Could anybody pls give some clue about the problem?

============== updated======================
Thanks everyone!

I cleaned the throttle body and also sprayed some into IAC, and tested driving 10min with a lot of white smoke. (unfortunately I could not find the straw of crab cleaner. It might drop into the intake manifold when I was spray, but not sure. Does it really hurt the engine?)

After 20 min dinner, I started the car, but the engine stalled in 5 min. And I could not started it again.

3 hours later, I could started it again. The alternator is good with 14.56V at 2000rpm.

It looks the car has some problem when it is hot. Should I clean the throttle body again? Is that straw a big problem in the intake manifold??

=========== =============
OK, I just got a call from the dealer.
They told me the whole exhaust system need to be replaced, it is $3100 !!!! If I do not want to fix it, the checking labor is $270.....
I know I have a failure oxygen sensor after the converter for about 3 month. I got a used one already, but no time to change it. And the delay spend me $270.............

=========================
OK, after I talked with the guy, I figured out that the problem is not because of the oxygen sensor.
The guy who checked my car also cleaned the IAC valve.
Maybe, I did not clean it completely or their carb cleaner is better...... Anyway, I did not find any clue they took the throttle body and IAC valve apart.

The problem might be solved. At least it did not happen again on the way back from stealer. I will try to start my car after 20 min.
==============================
the crankshaft position sensor was replaced by dealer.
So far, it hasn't stall.
However, the engine seems rough at idle when it is from open loop to closed loop. At that moment, the temp. gauge is close to the middle.
After stopped 20min, the engine still couldn't start. I believe the problem is still there.
================================================== =========

I also ignored a fact that it always happened when it was raining or high humidity.
today, it have not stalled but sometime the rpm goes down to about 200 and goes up to over 2000. At the same time, if I open the door, I can smell gas. I think engine dies from running rich.

I finally got the solution after reading this thread

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/i...pic=8158&st=50


Coolant temperature sensor or EGR valve.

For me, I would clean the EGR valve first, coz the temp sensor seems fine at high temp.

Does anyone have a good idea to clean the EGR on vehicle other than take it out?

[JohnGD]

Drive to Autozone and let them check out both the alternator and battery, free.

Originally Posted by icoben

97 Camry LE 4 cylinder, 157K miles.
Today, the engine stopped working twice at stop light or stop sign.
I restarted it the first time.
The second time, I tried several times to start the engine, hardly to start, like the battery is dead. But, I just changed the battery at Walmart 4 month ago.

Could anybody pls give some clue about the problem?

[RU2CHKN]

check your throttle body is see if there's carbon build-up, if there is use throttle body cleaner to clean it and spray some of it into the IAC valve

[touringcamry]

Sounds like it could be IAC. If you put the car in N and hold the gas down, it should stay on.

[AlmightyCamry777]

Originally Posted by touringcamry

Sounds like it could be IAC. If you put the car in N and hold the gas down, it should stay on.

Two fixes i would try - 1 -Touring camry may be right as this is a very common problem on the 4. The IAC uses two little pivoting vanes that look kind of like small razor blades. they are pivoted closed when engine is cold and supposed to open when engine is warm. There is even cooling hose going to them to tell them how hot the engine is. When they dirty, which happens maybe every 40,000 miles, the vanes often stick in open or shut position. If your engine only stalls when hot, but runs fine for a few minutes after a cold start. this is an indication they may be stuck closed. Usually it can be fixed by disassembly and cleaning the heck out of them with carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner and an old tooth brush.

2-also sounds like a problem i have had on other cars in the past, may be possibly bad alternator. Don't depend on the idiot light on the dash telling you if your alternator is bad, i fixed two of my cars that a check with a VOM showed alternator output to be low and the dash light never even blinked.

You can get a cheap VOM/multimeter from harbor freight for $4 and will tell you how healthy your alternator is in about 10 seconds. set the multimeter for 10 or 20 V DC, whatever it says on the knob, and put the probes on the battery terminals with engine running at idle and all accesories off. 14 volts or up to 14.9 is what you want to see, any less and your belt is slipping or your alternator is going out.
If your alt is fine look to clean the IAC like the other person suggested, theres alot of posts on it here.

Any tips on cleaning EGR and IAC?

[icoben]

Thanks everyone!

I cleaned the throttle body and also sprayed some to IAC, and tested driving 10min with a lot of white smoke. (unfortunately I could not find the straw of crab cleaner. It might drop into the intake manifold when I was spray, but not sure. Does it really hurt the engine?)

After 20 min dinner, I started the car, but the engine stalled in 5 min. And I could not started it again.

3 hours later, I could started it again. The alternator is good with 14.56V at 2000rpm.

It looks the car has some problem when it is hot. Should I clean the throttle body again? Is that straw a big problem in the intake manifold??

[bronzemaxell]

if it is temperature related, check the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT sensor).

[Mike Gerber]

Did you spray the cleaner in to the port leading to the idle air control valve? If not, I would do the job again sparying the cleaner liberally down in to that port. Then wait 10-15 minutes before reassembling everything and starting the car. This will give the cleaner some time to soak in the idle air control valve. If you are not familiar with that port here is a good DIY on cleaning the throttle body that shows where the port is:

How to: Cleaning Throttle Body -4 Cylinder Engines- With Pictures

Mike

[icoben]

Originally Posted by Mike Gerber

Did you spray the cleaner in to the port leading to the idle air control valve? If not, I would do the job again sparying the cleaner liberally down in to that port. Then wait 10-15 minutes before reassembling everything and starting the car. This will give the cleaner some time to soak in the idle air control valve. If you are not familiar with that port here is a good DIY on cleaning the throttle body that shows where the port is:

How to: Cleaning Throttle Body -4 Cylinder Engines- With Pictures

Mike

Thanks Mike, you are one of the most helpful guys in this forum! I've learned a lot from your other posts.

I did spray some to the port. The port is like this Photo of idle air control valve .

I wonder if the cleaner really works for the deep port. Maybe, I need to clean it again today.

Another question, does the spray straw in the intake manifold really hurt the engine?

[Mike Gerber]

"Another question, does the spray straw in the intake manifold really hurt the engine?"

I'm not really sure about this one, but I think it's best to remove it just in case. Two possible ways I can think of. Number 1 would be to get a shop vac and duct tape it to the opening of the throttel body. Then turn it on and see if you can suck the straw back out. Another way is to try to use one of those grab-it tools that open up with 4 little clawlike teeth and then clamp down on an object after you surround it with the teeth. Then pull it out. You will have to hold the throttle valve open when you do this. Another person holding the gas pedal to the floor would help or you should be able to hold the linkage open and then use a screwdriver to keep the linkage open. OK, I just thought of a third way to try. Use duct tape over the end of a long slotted screwdrive with some of the sticky side of the duct tape facing outward. Try to touch the straw with the sticky duct tape and pull it out.

Good luck and thanks for the thank you.

Mike

[icoben]

I cleaned it again this afternoon.
Problem is still the same. I kept driving 10 min, stop and restart right away, it was fine. However, if stops there for 20min, the car won't start. Even if turning the key when pushing the gas pedal.

[Mike Gerber]

Did you get the straw out?

Two other common problems that can surface at your mileage are a weak fuel pump and a carboned up EGR valve. Did you check for fuel pressure? Did anyone remove the EGR valve and it's tube and clean all the carbon out of it. It's a bit of a job, but it might be worth trying.

Mike

[mvftw]

Originally Posted by Mike Gerber

Did you get the straw out?

Two other common problems that can surface at your mileage are a weak fuel pump and a carboned up EGR valve. Did you check for fuel pressure? Did anyone remove the EGR valve and it's tube and clean all the carbon out of it. It's a bit of a job, but it might be worth trying.

Mike

My guess was EGR also...

[Gibson99]

if egr was plugged, it would just set a check engine light for p0401 egr insufficient. a stopped-up egr system cannot cause it to stall at idle. if egr is stuck OPEN and allowing flow, then yes, it will make it stall at idle. so egr can safely be ruled out for this.

i would start looking at the fuel pump at this point, as it seems teh pump may be losing the ability to run after it's been on for a bit. that's one of the more common ways they fail.

i would also try to get that straw out of the intake manifold. it could potentially fall down a runner and make a valve get stuck open... obviously a bad thing.

[mvftw]

Originally Posted by Gibson99

...if egr is stuck OPEN and allowing flow, then yes, it will make it stall at idle. so egr can safely be ruled out for this.

This is what I'm saying, so why are you ruling it out...