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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-15-2009, 08:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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98 camry keeps popping radiator

i just replaced the radiator in my 98 camry after the plastic radiator cracked on the top...and then within a week the same thing happened again on the new one. what the hell is going on? could it possibly be the thermostat causing too much pressure? or maybe the hood is hitting the radiator cap?? what do you guys think? i don't wanna replace it again and have it crack again..i wanna get this thing fixed right this time.
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Are you using the same radiator cap?
Is the vent tube to reservoir clear (not plugged).
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee777 View Post
Are you using the same radiator cap?
Is the vent tube to reservoir clear (not plugged).

yes using the same radiator cap. not sure about reservoir tube....havent thought to check it
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Old 10-16-2009, 05:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Get a new coolant tank cap, radiator cap and over flow bottle. There is something in there that is keeping pressure from releasing. The overflow hose may be clogged. try blowing them out with compressed air. Also make sure the radiator cap and overflow tank caps are not too worn out. They are made to operate the coolant system at about 13 psi. If they go bad, there could be too much pressure in the system and causing the top plastic radiator tank to break. Good luck.
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Old 10-16-2009, 12:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PortugalFocus View Post
Get a new coolant tank cap, radiator cap and over flow bottle. There is something in there that is keeping pressure from releasing. The overflow hose may be clogged. try blowing them out with compressed air. Also make sure the radiator cap and overflow tank caps are not too worn out. They are made to operate the coolant system at about 13 psi. If they go bad, there could be too much pressure in the system and causing the top plastic radiator tank to break. Good luck.
thanks guys...i'll try that and let ya know how it works
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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still overheating

so i replaced the radiator...and the cap and the thermostat. the fans aren't kicking on so the car starts to overheat when i stop moving. where is the switch for the fans? is it the sensor on the bottom of the radiator?

also..is it possible that the water pump could be out and not pumping the coolant through the system? there isn't any coolant leaking..which i know is normally how a pump goes out.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbodude69 View Post
so i replaced the radiator...and the cap and the thermostat. the fans aren't kicking on so the car starts to overheat when i stop moving. where is the switch for the fans? is it the sensor on the bottom of the radiator?

also..is it possible that the water pump could be out and not pumping the coolant through the system? there isn't any coolant leaking..which i know is normally how a pump goes out.
The fan switch is down on the passenger side bottom of the radiator -- you have to switch it over when you swap out the radiator. To test the fans, disconnect the connector from the sensor -- the fans default to "on" when that sensor doesn't keep them "off".

If the pump wasn't working, you'd be overheating all the time, not just when you stop moving.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hill8570 View Post
The fan switch is down on the passenger side bottom of the radiator -- you have to switch it over when you swap out the radiator. To test the fans, disconnect the connector from the sensor -- the fans default to "on" when that sensor doesn't keep them "off".

If the pump wasn't working, you'd be overheating all the time, not just when you stop moving.
ok thanks..i'll try unplugging the wire from the sensor. might as well just run the fans all the time..it shouldn't hurt anything.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by turbodude69 View Post
ok thanks..i'll try unplugging the wire from the sensor. might as well just run the fans all the time..it shouldn't hurt anything.
Yes it will. With the fans running all the time the car will be very slow to reach operating temperature, if it ever does reach operating temperature. During this time the car will run a very rich fuel mixture. This can eventually ruin the cat converter and will definitely have an effect on your fuel mileage. I would test and/or replace the fan switch on the radiator. It will be cheaper in the long run.

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Old 02-03-2010, 11:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Test the fan by jumpering with battery voltage. The fan should run. Otherwise get a new motor. Always be careful working with car batteries.

If the fan works then test the fan switch mentioned. Also check for blockages in the overflow tube and get a new cap as suggested.

You can read through this:

Radiator fans active while car is "ON?"
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Old 02-09-2010, 12:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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A blown head gasket can cause severe overheating,, and possibly ruin more parts.. all it takes is for some water to go into the combustion chamber and heat the water so it is much hotter than the radiator can cool..

that's the only thing I can think of that might cause the radiator pressure to build so high,,

an auto repair should be able to take pressure readings of the cooling system..

that radiator cap should be opening at the pressure indicated on the cap..

I think they are either 7psi or 12/14 psi.
I haven't messed with radiator caps for a long while,,, I never have problems with them..
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Old 02-09-2010, 12:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Late in the game mr 73 is . . .

Back to the original problem: cracks . . .

Was the car ever wrecked in the nose, bashed into a curb real hard below the coor support where the radiator mounts?

Maybe the cracks are a symptom of excessive stress on the radiator induced by some alien force??

Did you struggle at all to align the replacement radiator or did it drop in just fine? Can it move in the rubber mounts or is it smushed tighter than Dicks Hat Band?

Was it a new radiator? If used, it could be plugged and explain your overheating. I once stored a known good rad in the shed. My friends the yellers (aka yellow jackets) made a high-rise inside my cooling tower. Plugged it bad, they did.

Try running with the heater on medium and see how how the air is. Is it hot?

Have you ever put "Radiator Stop Leak, Bars Leak" or anything like that in it? Could explain something too. . .

As for running to cool - well, if it shifts into overdrive and more important, do you feel Lock-up by the transmission torque conveter (it is an auto yes?) if so I doubt its to cool for daily use until you find the root cause of the issues at hand.

>>> Please check the engine oil. Often times a blown head gasket allows fluid both ways. That is, oil can get in the cooling system and water in the oil, but this depends on the failure type.

+1 for the head gasket failure

Good luck,
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Probably not your issue, but I had one where the rubber hood bumpers on each far side of the hood were worn out and when I slammed the hood, it cracked the top tank.
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:56 PM   #14 (permalink)
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A lot of people have some very good ideas on what it could be but i think it is not hard to check to see if your radiator cap is banging into the hood. Find some paint that wipes off easy and takes a long time to dry, like house paint. Put the paint on the cap itself and close the hood, Raise hood, look for paint on the underside of the hood.
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Old 02-11-2010, 02:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I had this happen one time to me and I managed to fix it, I had the enging changed on my 88 trismo when I got it back I blew 2 rads and had no heat,before realizing the heater hoses were hooked up backwards LOL just thought I'd mention be sure heater hoses are hooked up in the right locations..
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