What is distributor o-ring ? Also, oil pressure switch leaking

[sintox]

My Camry94-L4 has an oil leak (not dripping when cold, but 1 or 2 small drops visible on the ground right after a short or long trip). When the engine cool down, there SEEMS to be no leak.

Took it to the garage and the mech. says something like this about the oil leak:
Distributor o ring
Oil pressured switch

They give a quote for the oil pressure switch and labor and I say, let me think about it.

I went online and could not find a part called distributor o-ring.

Your advice: What parts should I buy and what potential issues will I encounter if I try to fix these two problems myself ?

Thank you so much.

Have a great day.

PS: When stop at red-light and engine hot, there is a burn smell (don't know for sure if this from the burn oil leak or not).
PS2: Can I just buy a new gasket for the oil pressure switch ?

[95PimpingCamry]

The distributor o-ring is an o-ring around the dist housing that seals it at the head. Go to the dealer for this o-ring (a few dollars). Mark the distributor position with a sharpie, and remove the dist. You will see the o-ring, replace it and re-install the dist. A quick search will return many results on this.

The burning smell is most likely the leaked oil burning.

IDK about the pressure switch, sorry.

[Eye8Pussies]

if the oil pressure switch is leaking, you'll have to replace it- there is no gasket to replace

and it is most likely the oil from the switch that is running on to your block and causing the burning smell


it's an easy job- just disconnect, get a proper socket - deep socket, take it out, and then replace with some liquid teflon or teflon tape

[sintox]

Eye8Pussies and 95PimpingCamry, thank you so much !

I am heading out to buy the Oil Press. switch and the Distrib. o-ring.

I have a deep socket set (up to 24mm I think) so Oil Press Switch will be doable (I don't have my own garage and I don't have any backup person or car).

As for the distrib. o-ring, might somebody walk me through this please ? I saw some instructions on the distrib-cap and rotor, but nothing on the distrib. o-ring.

Are they on the same unit ? I've never watched anyone do this before so I'm very much a newbie dummie.

[Kenny_McCormic]

You have to pull the whole distributor off, two bolts in slotted holes and the one wiring connector AFAIK(never had mine off). Ideally you would set the timing(very fast easy job IF you have a timing light) after putting it back, but if you mark the position where its currently set(and put it back in the same spot), you should be fine. You should probably have oil handy and a pan to catch anything that spills out.

You might also need to disconnect the 4 plug wires, note their location beforehand, maybe take a picture.

[95PimpingCamry]

here is my method for the dist o-ring. It looks long, but I just wanted to include every detail.

1) Remove the dist cap vie the 3 screw. Leave the plug wires attached. This is to get the wires out of the way, while keeping them in the correct order on the dist cap.
2) Disconnect the wiring harness plug (I think only 1) from the distributor (not the dist cap).
3) Use a sharpie to mark the dist's position in relation to the engine head. A simple line across the head onto the mounting flange of the dist works. This is because the dist can rotate when loosened to adjust timing. You want to be able to put it back in with the same timing as you currently have.
4) Remove the 2 bolts holding the dist to head (I think 10mm).
5) Remove the dist from the head by pulling strait out. It may seem like some force is needed, but if you grab the dist housing and pull strait out hard enough (maybe wiggling it a little) it will come out.
6) You will see an o-ring (probably in really bad condition) on the part of the dist housing that was inside of the head (not the dist shaft). Remove this o-ring and discard.
7) Install new o-ring, and coat it with a light film of oil.
8) To install the dist, you will notice that the dist shaft has 2 fins sticking out. They will go into a slot in the cam shaft. The fins and slot must be lined up correctly for the dist to go into the head. This is not as hard as you think. If you look closely, you will see that the fins are offset to one side, and the slot on the camshaft is offset to one side (you can see the camshaft if you look into the head). Line up the fins and slot to get a rough starting position on the rotor shaft of the dist.
9) Slide the dist back into the head. If it will not go back into the head, rotate the rotor on the dist slightly back and forth. This will help line up the fins and slot between the dist shaft and camshaft.
10) Install the 2 bolts that hold on the dist housing, but don't tighten them.
11) Rotate the dist housing so that the mark you made in step 3 lines up, and tighten the 2 bolts.
12) Re-install the dist cap.
13) You're done. Go have a beer.

[sintox]

Wow 95PimpingCamry, you're such a nice guy for writing this down. If I will take clear pictures, you and me can even make an DIY for o-ring change.

Now, I just went out and bought the Oil press. switch. $18CAD at part-source. Both them and dealer don't have the distr. o-ring. So I'll check with Napa tomorrow. If no luck, then will have to search online .

[sintox]

By the way, can I use liquid-paper instead of the sharpie thing ?

[flyeri]

Sharpie is best as you will probably wipe the area and the mounting flange. during this process. You will rub the liq paper off. I make a scratch with a pick. You can't rub that off.

[95PimpingCamry]

You don't HAVE to use a sharpie.

What you do have to do is make a mark somehow that will not be easily rubbed off. If you want to use something to draw a mark, make the mark and then try really hard to rub it off. If it rubs off it is no good, and you have to find another method.

You could make a scratch with a pick (as flyeri mentioned). This would work really well. My only problem with this is that I have this personal preference to not intentionally scratch parts of my engine. Don't get me wrong, it won't hurt your engine at all, I just don't like it.

[sintox]

Ok, I changed the Oil press. sw. The old one has 28mm or 27mm socket so I used an adjustable wrench.

The new one has 24mm so I used deep socket wrench. Just press the tab to open connector.

That was easy Maybe next week will be the distr o-ring.

[1996camry]

just use lead pencil to go around the both distributor nuts... before you remove..

don't use sharp object such as knife because you can scratch the aluminum head... just just lead pencil to go around both nuts that hold the distributor.. do that first before remove the distributor out.
when you're removing the distributor, you just try not to erase the mark pencil that you made both distributor nuts.

installation is the reverse, but make sure you put distributor back on the mark that you made with lead pencil.

it should take 30 min...really easy job..and save $$$$$...

[sintox]

Boy or boy, it took me a long time to finish my distr. o-ring today.

I will elaborate more one day, but I put short comments here now so I won't forget.

Here's what I MUST-MUST-MUST have ready if I had to do another car today (to be prepared in case):

1) a 8mm SOCKET (I thought it was a 6mm) AND A 3 to 6inch EXTENSION (to remove the 3 Phillips bolts on the distr cap). (Mishap: I broke 1 screw).

2) a POINTED pliers to remove the smaller distrib's connector.

3) a small flat screw-driver. I broke one or 2 the plastic fastener of the spark-wires to the distrib. To release those, I used a small flat screw-driver, which breaks the plastic tab. Why do they make this plastic tab so thin ? I want to know a way to secure the connector now that 1 or 2 fastener is broken (no money for suckers).
I also broke the plastic fastener holding the plastic box covering the throttle-line.

4) The bottom distri bolt (to correct someone, it's a 12mm) is barely visible and very hard to reach, and the Toy. repair Manual says there's only one bolt! Damn you. Also, if you don't have an 4-8inch extension for this, well, you can forget about removing the distrib. (a set of socket from 10mm to 22mm is a must, plus the 6mm socket for the distr-cap screws, and 12mm+14mm open-end wrench for the nuts on the numerous steel cables).

5) Pulling the distrib out is so hard just by hands. You must use a THICK LONG flat screw-driver to pry out, slowly and around the mating area.

Observations:
My distr shaft's end is covered with SLUDGE (THICK harden carbon). Didn't expect this since not a 1997-2001. So scratch/rub the sludge out.

Considering now: how to check and change ignition timing without a timing light ? How to make ignition come slightly earlier (already have 2 dot-marks, side-by-side, on the block and the distrib housing).

Drive around 5-10 minute, stop and red light, then green light, go, repeat couple times, look at the gas needle: my goodness, why does this thing has to go down that much in less than 5min!

[Gibson99]

it's 8mm bolts on the distributor.

only proper way to adjust timing is with a timing light. don't forget to put the jumper in the diagnostics box to force the computer to keep the idle steady for you, otherwise you won't really know where your timing is set.

[sintox]

Ok, so now I have some time to post the pictures.

I'd like to thank 95Pimping so much for his instructions.

Just want to add 1 important point: When re-install, Wait till the distrib is attached to the block before putting back the cap. The reason is it's much easier to rotate the rotor tiny-tiny slightly to align the "fish tail" end (that is offset from the center as already underlined by 95Pimping) into the block gear.

I wish someone could show me how to remove the fastener of the ignition-wires (the lower ones are hard to get out without breaking the plastic tab).

The sludge:


The distr (with black cap)


By the way, this is my filter (bought the car with it). Notice the aluminum mesh on top. The orange rubber is soft.
Is it a good type or cheap type ? Is it still good or time to change ? Is it the washable type ?