1993 camry v6 major cold starting issue - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

keegan0103 · 10-20-2009, 01:51 PM

Everytime I start my car in the morning (first start), it starts fine and idles fine at 750 rpms or so, but when I put it into d (its an auto) and give it any gas at all, it bogs down and threatens to stall. It barely moves past 10 mph when this happens as well. And once its fully warmed up, its prefect. Not an issue with starting or running after that. But if it sits more then 2 or so hours and the car cools off, the issue starts back up. And I mean literally no power when I say no power. It doesn't change past 12% throttle it sounds the same and doesn't give more or less power. The thing will not move at all. The problem goes away as it warms up though (progressively). Also it randomly changes idle speed throught driving. It varies from 700 rpm to 1150 rpm. No cel, no codes. Any ideas? Maybe the egr or other idle control valve, also it stumbles from starting from a standstill if its warmed up or not. Any chance they are related

davemac2 · 10-20-2009, 04:30 PM

Check your TB intake hose for any cracks/holes and the other hoses such as the one that goes into the IAC valve.

dave mc

keegan0103 · 10-20-2009, 09:17 PM

I got home from school today and everything is hooked up as it should be. I disconnected the battery, increased the idle speed, and started it back up. The idle improved and. Is a bit more stable and when I get off of work in an hour or so, ill see if it still falls on its face when its cold and post my findings. Slightly unrelated, but I filled up Sunday and have driven 20 miles. The gas gauge says I'm already down a quarter tank!!! Please say this isn't even possible because that means I'm getting basically 5 mpg

Luckynumber5 · 10-20-2009, 10:18 PM

Sounds like you have an air intake problem. You need to remove the intake tubing and look for any cracks and feel all the rubber hoses for really stiff rubber. As the hoses age they become brittle and can break.

Take a can or brake cleaner and spray around any questionable areas while the engine is running. If the idle speed changes you have found a leak.

A few things can cause this problem mechanically. Check the cap and rotor for one. The other big cause is the air flow meter is worn and you need to readjust it. Here is one method for adjusting the afm: 3VZ-FE bogging when cold.. o2 sensor or otherwise?

keegan0103 · 10-20-2009, 11:17 PM

I left work and it started up fine as usual, dropped it into d, let it roll about 10 feet then gave it gas. Rpms went up to about 2k, car went up to about 10 and it wouldn't go anymore. So I hopped out, popped the hood and tapped the throttle. I heard an intake sounding noise from the back of the tb, almost by the brake booster, and it bogged but only momentarily and the rpms picked up. I did this about 7 more times and by then the car was warmed up and I couldn't duplicate the problem. When in neutral or rolling, the car struggles when throttle is applied (when cold) could this be some sort of fuel pressure issue, or some sort of fuel related thing? I know its not tranny related and the only thing I can think of that would change after a few hours of sitting would be fuel. Ill check the afm tomorrow and get some cleaner for the intake test. Will I have to worry about electrical components when spraying? I also have a spare afm sitting in my closet. One last thing, this wouldn't be related to the headgaskets being replaced right? And

keegan0103 · 10-22-2009, 06:57 PM

Update: the car smells strongly of gas at startup, so would this be a flooding issue? is it flooding at start or becoming flooded as it sits?

Mike Gerber · 10-22-2009, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keegan0103

Update: the car smells strongly of gas at startup, so would this be a flooding issue? is it flooding at start or becoming flooded as it sits?

It could be several things. You could have an external leak anywhere in the fuel system like at the fuel filter, the lines themselves, or even an o-ring leak at the fuel injectors. Or you could have a leaking injector itself. A leaky injector would continue to drip fuel down in to a cylinder after the car is shut off. This would flood that cylinder and explain your bogging when the car is cold and also the gas smell. That cylinder is filled with gas until the piston forces that gas out of that cylinder and out the exhaust system. Then the car begins to run normally. Leave the car shut off long enough and that injector fills that cylinder up with gas again.

Mike

keegan0103 · 10-22-2009, 07:55 PM

Its been sitting since about 4:45 so I'd say 3 hours should do it. I just did the afm Recalibration (2 turns) and pulled the ecu fuse and am about to see what that does to it.

keegan0103 · 10-22-2009, 09:27 PM

So I did the 2 turn afm trick, and it ran fine for maybe 2 seconds and bogged, but less this time. Re pulled ecu, turned it a third time and it helped, but the car was surging even though I kept a steady foot. I turned to try and limp it up the block and I heard a metalic pop from under the hood then it PULLED. Is it safe to think the afm is sticking? If so, how do I oil it?

keegan0103 · 10-24-2009, 09:27 AM

It turns out it wasn't fixed, and still acted up the next morning. I found a vacuum diagram and some of the hoses weren't in the right place. That fixed my stumble from acceleration from a standstill, as well as the inconsistant power throughout the rpm range, but it still bogs at cold start when you give it gas and has barely any power when cold. I fixed it when it was warm and reset the ecu when warm so tonight after the cars been sitting for over half the day, ill pull the ecu fuse and try again. Would overturning the afm screw have a negative effect? And just to verify, the fuse box next to the battery has a fuse labeled ecu, and that's what I pull right?