Valve cover & spark plug tubes

[fenixus]

My 5S-FE when purchased (3 years ago at 35k miles, poorly maintained) appeared to had 1 failed spark plug that was all covered (along with inside of a tube and a wire) with some brown sediment, burnt oil most likely.

recently I replaced spark plugs again (after 3 months of using Bosch) and noticed that in short time all plugs were a little sticky from oil. does it mean that all tubes are leaking a tad ?

now, can it have anything to do with a puff of a smoke when starting the car cold (e.g. in morning) ? or that is purely related to valve seals (different story) ?

I'm also VERY curious how everything looks like around cams, after reading through a few oil sludge threads (with scary pictures) I have to admit that I got scared

Also I am planning to remove the dirty spark plug tube and clean it out. I may actually clean all of them. that is all a plan only as of now. not sure if i find time to do it before Winter, maybe it will wait until Spring. not even sure if it's worth the time spent on it (no visible oil leaks what so ever).

I understand that I should get new valve cover gasket, tube seals and a tube thread sealant before attempting the job. what is needed to remove the tube, only a pair of vice grips will do ?

[JohnGD]

I think the valve cover set questions were answered in your response to muminiasty?

Cold start bluish-tinted smoke is usually valve stem seal leaks. However, with these sludge makers there is a slight chance it's sludge. But you'd also have oil consumption with it I think.

The stem seal leaks were common problems in that generation because of a cheaper material used. I believe it was later corrected?

That valve cover design was not very good. The cover nuts often come loose and what you got were leaks into the plug tubes. You can try to tighten it first and see if that solves the problem.

Originally Posted by fenixus

My 5S-FE when purchased (3 years ago at 35k miles, poorly maintained) appeared to had 1 failed spark plug that was all covered (along with inside of a tube and a wire) with some brown sediment, burnt oil most likely.

recently I replaced spark plugs again (after 3 months of using Bosch) and noticed that in short time all plugs were a little sticky from oil. does it mean that all tubes are leaking a tad ?

now, can it have anything to do with a puff of a smoke when starting the car cold (e.g. in morning) ? or that is purely related to valve seals (different story) ?

I'm also VERY curious how everything looks like around cams, after reading through a few oil sludge threads (with scary pictures) I have to admit that I got scared

Also I am planning to remove the dirty spark plug tube and clean it out. I may actually clean all of them. that is all a plan only as of now. not sure if i find time to do it before Winter, maybe it will wait until Spring. not even sure if it's worth the time spent on it (no visible oil leaks what so ever).

I understand that I should get new valve cover gasket, tube seals and a tube thread sealant before attempting the job. what is needed to remove the tube, only a pair of vice grips will do ?

[fenixus]

ehh, i'm scared it might be a sludge problem, so out of curiosity I'd like to see it
i don't have leaks (except the tube) or oil consumption problem.

should I be bothered with a dirty spark plug tube ? or maybe i should try cleaning it up from the top with ...something...
once i put my hands on the 30mm socket I will try re-torquing the tube nuts first. in case i want to remove tubes, I do that with vice grips, right ?
I read in another thread that as a thread sealant i can use Permatex Ultra Grey if I cannot find anything else.

also what is RTV?

off topic question, unrelated to this thread: can you jack the car up with a scissor jack supporting front middle part of frame (crossmember i think it was) ? asking because not sure how I put the car on jack stands with a scissor jack only.

[JohnGD]

Depending on how much oil, you might be able to wait until Spring.

You may be able use Autozone's free loaner tool program, for one of their 30mm axle nut socket. Do it while in the parking lot I suppose.

Normally you don't need to touch the plug tubes. I think the tubes are thread locked. An engine shop would know for sure. These, like core plugs, are probably one-use items, that is, they got damaged during removal??

Permatex Ultra Grey is a type of RTV that you use to seal the semi-circular plug joints on the cylinder-head surface while replacing the valve cover gasket set. Use 4 dabs where they meet. And at the sharp cam corners as another mentioned.

Not sure if it's the same one used for plug tubes. I've not done those. Others might chip in. I'll need to cross reference the numbers to find out.....

RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanization rubber. For example:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

You can't safety do so with a scissor jack. It's only for the four tire-change jack points. No where else. Besides, it's not high enough. Need a floor jack good for 20" or higher. Now others may have different ways of using the stands with a scissor jack. Let's just say that those locations are not Toyota-specified support points. So beware what people tell you.

Maybe return the jack stands and go to Home Depot, have them cut some lumber for you, and make your own lumber ramps for now? For most maintenance items I use lumber ramps more than jack stands. They don't have to be as long as the Mustang page I pointed to. It's cheap, fast, and easy.

Well here it is again:
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/...amps/index.htm

Originally Posted by fenixus

ehh, i'm scared it might be a sludge problem, so out of curiosity I'd like to see it
i don't have leaks (except the tube) or oil consumption problem.

should I be bothered with a dirty spark plug tube ? or maybe i should try cleaning it up from the top with ...something...
once i put my hands on the 30mm socket I will try re-torquing the tube nuts first. in case i want to remove tubes, I do that with vice grips, right ?
I read in another thread that as a thread sealant i can use Permatex Ultra Grey if I cannot find anything else.

also what is RTV?

off topic question, unrelated to this thread: can you jack the car up with a scissor jack supporting front middle part of frame (crossmember i think it was) ? asking because not sure how I put the car on jack stands with a scissor jack only.

[fenixus]

so in short i should stay away from tubes? anyways, i think (if curiosity allows) in Spring I open the valve cover up and check what there is.
for now i only re-torque the nuts (good to have autozone almost around the corner).

i am also considering purchase of this compact 2t floor jack (could carry it in the trunk, 25 lbs):
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66725
Lift: 4-1/2" to 15-5/8"

my jack stands (3t):
Height: 11-3/4" to 16-3/4"

I am slowly getting annoyed with pulling the scissor jack out of trunk (and removing all trunk crap load first). this might be a good reason.
i'd rather get this jack than use lumber ramps...

[JohnGD]

I really don't know enough about the spark plug tubes to say. But I'd say to tighten the cover nuts and see if that lessen/solve the problem.

I recently (last month's ads?) saw Pep Boys ran ads for a 2-ton Torin jack for about $15 after rebate. No plastic case for $15 however. (Ok, this month's $24 w/ case, check your local ads). Slightly lower lift (~13"?) than HF. With holidays coming I'd suggest you wait for the deals.

Maybe others can chime in about 2-ton floor jack and taller 3-ton stands. I think you do need a higher lift (like the 3-ton 20" mentioned) before the chassis will clear the 3-ton stands? (The HF 3-ton stands are 11.75"-16.75", I don't know, maybe the HF 2-ton jack will do it?? )

My preference as mentioned was with 3-ton for an extra safety margin. So I wonder how many others are using a 2-ton or 2-1/4-ton setup? Comments?

Originally Posted by fenixus

so in short i should stay away from tubes? anyways, i think (if curiosity allows) in Spring I open the valve cover up and check what there is.
for now i only re-torque the nuts (good to have autozone almost around the corner).

i am also considering purchase of this compact 2t floor jack (could carry it in the trunk, 25 lbs):
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66725
Lift: 4-1/2" to 15-5/8"

my jack stands (3t):
Height: 11-3/4" to 16-3/4"

I am slowly getting annoyed with pulling the scissor jack out of trunk (and removing all trunk crap load first). this might be a good reason.
i'd rather get this jack than use lumber ramps...

[fenixus]

what is the proper factory torque for spark plug tube nut ? Haynes gives 33ft-lbs while people are saying 17ft-lbs ? which one is right?

[JohnGD]

There seems to be conflicting info on that. Both Haynes and Toyota say the same at 33 but Autozone says 17. Don't know.

Originally Posted by fenixus

what is the proper factory torque for spark plug tube nut ? Haynes gives 33ft-lbs while people are saying 17ft-lbs ? which one is right?

[Brand]

Originally Posted by fenixus

what is the proper factory torque for spark plug tube nut ? Haynes gives 33ft-lbs while people are saying 17ft-lbs ? which one is right?

spark plug tube 36 ft-lbs
spark plug tube nut 33 ft-lbs

[JohnGD]

BTW, the 36 lb/ft is for installing the spark plug tubes.

[fenixus]

ah, thanks. if toyota says 33 then i can trust it. autozone can be wrong, haynes less liekly but still. but at least the manufacturer shouldn't be wrong

will do 33ft-lbs, if i brake something i will go to toyota dealer and punch them in the head with a spark plug tube

[JohnGD]

Do 33 lb/ft, then wait 30 minutes. Retorque again.

Of course start from the middle two out, sort of like wheel lugs, in stages.

Don't over use the RTV.

Originally Posted by fenixus

ah, thanks. if toyota says 33 then i can trust it. autozone can be wrong, haynes less liekly but still. but at least the manufacturer shouldn't be wrong

will do 33ft-lbs, if i brake something i will go to toyota dealer and punch them in the head with a spark plug tube

[fenixus]

what do you mean by using RTV? i am only going to re-torque the nuts, i was kidding in above post about removing the tubes. opening the valve cover i postponed until Spring. don't wanna risk a broken car just before it gets colder.

[Brand]

I had the exact same problem, oil leaking into one of the spark plug tubes. Camry service manual says to use three bond 1324 thread sealant or equivalent. Good luck

[Brand]

To remove the spark plug tubes, try this http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_would...o_do_to_fix_it I ended up using a channellock plier to remove it.