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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-22-2009, 09:35 AM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Need Power!

Hey all,

This is my deal: I need more electrical power. I feel the alternator system is insufficient for driving all my electrical components such as cooling fans, a/c, power steering, etc...and I want more voltage. What is the simplest way to get more voltage for running lights and other electrical components. Is there an attachment that can boost the voltage in my car?

I have 1995 Camry coupe DX, manual

Thanks!
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Old 10-22-2009, 09:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The factory alternator should be fine as long as it's in good operating condition. Have you had yours checked out?
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Old 10-22-2009, 09:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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^^ i dont think thats true (not trying to bash on you). the more power you draw > the more it takes out from the battery > the more the alternator is working to keep the battery happy. if you are running more then 80amps of electrical stuff (subs, amps, lights, etc.) then a new alternator is going to be needed, not unless your fine with buying new batteries (a stock 80amp alternator + stock battery = dead batter cells because of too much draw). Same goes with the cap. the cap is like an extra battery, but it runs off your battery. so it stores it and when you need extra juice itll take it from the cap. but whats the point if your alternator cannot keep up with the demands your battery needs

what you can do is...

- i heard of people taking other alternators off (i think) toyota tundra or might be a mustang. but it fits right in..but maybe you need a bigger belt.

- or you can visit http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/ and get the correct rebuilt alternator for your car

Last edited by FLIP K1DD; 10-22-2009 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:04 AM   #4 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

I thought so, seems a bit more diagnosis is called for and possibly a bit more work on my part. Everything runs fine, its just that I want a smooth idle and no significant change in rpms when the fans, a/c, etc... are running

I was hoping for a simple solution. How easy is it to replace an alternator?...However, I don't like pulleys and belts since I've never replaced any before.

Perhaps I need some replacement parts. I will need to check each component with a voltmeter to be sure. I know the alternator is stock, the battery is a few years old, and the cap was not changed since I bought the car 6 years ago...got newer plugs also but that may not matter. Thanks for the clarity and good info about the battery-alternator-cap system, that helped!
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:06 AM   #5 (permalink)
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How about buying a newer model Camry alternator and replacing my stock one? Which one would fit the OEM harness and bracket?
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:34 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLIP K1DD View Post
^^ i dont think thats true (not trying to bash on you). the more power you draw > the more it takes out from the battery > the more the alternator is working to keep the battery happy. if you are running more then 80amps of electrical stuff (subs, amps, lights, etc.) then a new alternator is going to be needed, not unless your fine with buying new batteries (a stock 80amp alternator + stock battery = dead batter cells because of too much draw). Same goes with the cap. the cap is like an extra battery, but it runs off your battery. so it stores it and when you need extra juice itll take it from the cap. but whats the point if your alternator cannot keep up with the demands your battery needs

what you can do is...

- i heard of people taking other alternators off (i think) toyota tundra or might be a mustang. but it fits right in..but maybe you need a bigger belt.

- or you can visit http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/ and get the correct rebuilt alternator for your car
No offense taken. If stbradle is running extra electrical components, such as an amplifier or two to power speakers, ect, then this could certainly be the case. However, in his original post he only mentioned standard electrical components, nothing extra. That is why I did not suggest a higher output alternator.

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Originally Posted by stbradle View Post
I thought so, seems a bit more diagnosis is called for and possibly a bit more work on my part. Everything runs fine, its just that I want a smooth idle and no significant change in rpms when the fans, a/c, etc... are running

I was hoping for a simple solution. How easy is it to replace an alternator?...However, I don't like pulleys and belts since I've never replaced any before.

Perhaps I need some replacement parts. I will need to check each component with a voltmeter to be sure. I know the alternator is stock, the battery is a few years old, and the cap was not changed since I bought the car 6 years ago...got newer plugs also but that may not matter. Thanks for the clarity and good info about the battery-alternator-cap system, that helped!
I'd still suggest just checking and making sure your alternator is putting out as much power as it's supposed to. If not, and your car is not pulling much extra power for amplifiers, ect then I'd just get a standard replacement alternator. If need be, it would be possible to get on that will better fulfill your power needs.
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

Thanks 360glitch and FLIP K1DD,

I will check the output at my alternator and if need be I would go with this higher amp model:

http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hiou140ampal17.html

I also wonder about all the wires going to and from the battery and alternator

I'd like to be conservative...
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Old 10-22-2009, 02:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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01-02 Highlander (V6) with a towing package would be direct bolt on for 1MZ

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...uralast+Import
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Old 10-22-2009, 02:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stbradle View Post
Everything runs fine, its just that I want a smooth idle and no significant change in rpms when the fans, a/c, etc... are running
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but a wouldn't a larger alternator need more power from the engine thus worsening the idle?
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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try building a more comprehensive 0 gauge grounding kit before you determine if you need an uprated alternator. there are ways to replace alternator internals to increase output, or you can also mount a secondary alternator as i've seen in done often in SPL.
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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^^^^^^ he doesnt have a "system" he just wants more power to drive what is in the car already.
(lights, a/c, radio, power seats maybe)
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Keep your current alternator.
It will be money wasted IMO, solely because your current alternator should be more than enough. Toyota designed the car well. If your experiencing dimming when using power stuff, thats relatively normal.

If not, there may be something wrong with your alternator. I get 12.2 V when off, 14.2 V after started, and 13.7 when running normal, with 0.1 drop when power window, etc are used.
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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yea i only suggested a higher output because i assumed your probably going to add more electronics in the future..if your just running an extra pair of lights or something you should be fine. changing the alternator is really easy! you just need a wrench and socket..if you ever need help hit us up with that. (just a process of loosening the belt and unbolting the alternator off)

Quote:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but a wouldn't a larger alternator need more power from the engine thus worsening the idle
these are only rebuilt alternators that put out more then a stock, alot more! so pretty much whenever your driving regularly or i thinking also (idling) your, as long as your engine is on, the alternator is charging
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:52 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by FLIP K1DD View Post
these are only rebuilt alternators that put out more then a stock, alot more! so pretty much whenever your driving regularly or i thinking also (idling) your, as long as your engine is on, the alternator is charging
If the alternator is charging the battery at idle, then I can see how the electrical aspects of the OP's problem can be solved. As far as the A/C goes, I think the rpms have to go up just because of the A/C compressor engaging and sapping some power from the engine (like I said before, the extra fan turning on when A/C is on is an electrical issue).
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Old 10-22-2009, 08:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Without checking the voltage drops yet and reading all the replies here, it is starting to make me think that my battery may be towards the end of its life. I have a die hard and I don't remember when I bought it but it was definitely more than 4 years ago. If the alternator is working hard to charge the battery during idle and it is not holding the charge well, this could be indicating a failing battery soon, like when winter comes and I can't start my car anymore...I will update when I check the volts at the alternator end, etc...thanks
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