2t compact floor jack & 3t jack stands - can do? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

***fenixus*** · 10-22-2009, 10:51 AM

I asked question here by accident, don't want to cross post, so linking only.

2t compact floor jack & 3t jack stands - can do?

thanks for your time and help!

ghettosled · 10-22-2009, 11:51 AM

that should suit your purpose. i think central nuematic builds "okay" quality items, but if you will only do this every so often, it will work just fine. i have their 3 ton jack and use it about once every 2 weeks. its about 1.5 years old and is starting to lose compression. truth be told, i bought this guy (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...061224x0000002) about 13 years ago and its still going strong. granted it only reaches up 13", but its small enough to keep tucked away in the garage or a trunk. before i bough larger floor jacks and needed to reach higher, i used a piece or two of 2"x6" wood underneath. this also helps to protect asphalt driveways from the jack pressing down.

***fenixus*** · 10-22-2009, 12:01 PM

glad to hear thanks!

muminiasty · 10-22-2009, 12:25 PM

What about those 3 tons plastic stands where you drive on top of. Those I saw at pep boys. Are they any good?

ghettosled · 10-22-2009, 07:35 PM

^ those are good for changing the oil, but if you need to change brakes, timing belt or anything that requires removing the wheel - you are out of luck.

***fenixus*** · 10-22-2009, 07:48 PM

just picked up that $24.99 jack ($34.99 before mail-in rebate) from Pep Boys. not bad at first glance, it was used by someone, because wheels are scratched... hopefully nothing wrong with it. it seems this one (with case) was the last item of this model in my closest local PB.

will test it out on Sunday (damn Saturday is raining).

i also wanted to pickup wheel chocks at PB, but they had only expensive plastic blocks ($5.99 a piece). i think those metal ones (foldable) i found in HF ($4.99 a pair) are a much better deal.

i never thought about buying ramps or building them as JohnGD tried to make me a few times hihi

as mentioned above, they are good mostly for an oil change. even for changing brake pads you will need to use the scissor jack still.

muminiasty · 10-22-2009, 08:04 PM

Quote:

anything that requires removing the wheel - you are out of luck.

Crap that is a good point Are Jacks safe? I always get paranoid when I see car hanging up on something like that. Where do you set jack up when you want front wheels up? Is there a spot?

***JohnGD*** · 10-22-2009, 08:13 PM

The HF and Sears 2.x-ton jacks can do the 15" or so lift. The Torin Red 2-ton is only about 13" or so.

I do use a HF 3-ton (after Crapsman 3-ton busted a seal on me). Oil, ATF, oxygen sensor changes get the lumber ramps (

).

I do follow directions and use stands as a pair (per axle) to avoid placing lateral force on them. I also use slotted 2x4 blocks where the metal pleats are at the jack points. HF does sell rubber protectors, but I haven't use those so don't know.

Right, everything you need wheels off you still need a jack. And if you need to remove stabilizer bar links (when changing struts for example), both sides of an axle need to be on the stands to remove tension on the bar.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fenixus

just picked up that $24.99 jack ($34.99 before mail-in rebate) from Pep Boys. not bad at first glance, it was used by someone, because wheels are scratched... hopefully nothing wrong with it. it seems this one (with case) was the last item of this model in my closest local PB.

will test it out on Sunday (damn Saturday is raining).

i also wanted to pickup wheel chocks at PB, but they had only expensive plastic blocks ($5.99 a piece). i think those metal ones (foldable) i found in HF ($4.99 a pair) are a much better deal.

i never thought about buying ramps or building them as JohnGD tried to make me a few times hihi

as mentioned above, they are good mostly for an oil change. even for changing brake pads you will need to use the scissor jack still.

touringcamry · 10-22-2009, 08:15 PM

You only use the jack to raise the car. Once at the desired height, use jackstands to keep it there. Don't get under a car with jack(s) only.

***JohnGD*** · 10-22-2009, 08:16 PM

Wheel chock I use:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96479

I use a saddle pad with the HF 3-ton:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96306

***JohnGD*** · 10-22-2009, 08:27 PM

On the front of the subframe there is a circular raised area that fits nicely into a 3-ton saddle. (Never tried it with a 2-ton so don't know.)

Then the stands are placed on the approved jack points where you place the scissor jack. I use slotted wood blocks, made to fit the pleats and stands, to protect the paint. There are rubber protectors for the stands, but I haven't used them. Others use other spots for the stands, but personally I don't do that. I don't want to bend any metal.

Right, never use a floor jack in place of jack stands. Stands take load straight down, so use them as a pair as not to place lateral force on the i-beam. Leave the floor jack in place as secondary support for added safety.

Quote:

Originally Posted by muminiasty

Crap that is a good point Are Jacks safe? I always get paranoid when I see car hanging up on something like that. Where do you set jack up when you want front wheels up? Is there a spot?

***fenixus*** · 10-22-2009, 08:35 PM

13'' might be it for my 3t jack stands (11''-16'' i think it was). i never planned using them any higher than this. even if jack stands would only fit at minimal setting then it's ok with me. will post back if i find out they do not fit with this floor jack. i can always pickup $45 blue jack from Duralast at nearby Autozone (open 7 days a week now), didn't check the specs though (not much on AZ website).

still thinking about wheel chocks. those rubber ones are expensive... on the other hand it's a sort of matter of life and death if things go wrong... are those cheapest metal blocks bad? probably they suck on uneven surface (and wet for instance)... after second thoughts perhaps i will get at least plastic blocks (better grip on surface)...

***JohnGD*** · 10-22-2009, 09:03 PM

The distance between the jack point and support joint might mean that you have to lift more than 1"-in-addition at the jack point to clear the 11.75" height of the stands. Don't know. I guess we'll find out. Also, if you have a 2x6 lumber under it like suggested will give you another 1.5". Now why do I sound like a lumber salesman?

The plastic chocks look flimsy. That's why I went with the solid, smelly rubber chocks on sale. The metal ones might slide was my thought. Or you can get a 4x4, cut into 4 smaller triangular pieces of blocks at Home Depot. Maybe $2-3?? I also used 79-cent garden bricks, but those were heavy!

I saw Walmart had the ACDelco 2.5-ton jack in plastic case. Don't know how much. Supposely 15.5" height:

http://www.epinions.com/review/AC_De...t_138503884420

Quote:

Originally Posted by fenixus

13'' might be it for my 3t jack stands (11''-16'' i think it was). i never planned using them any higher than this. even if jack stands would only fit at minimal setting then it's ok with me. will post back if i find out they do not fit with this floor jack. i can always pickup $45 blue jack from Duralast at nearby Autozone (open 7 days a week now), didn't check the specs though (not much on AZ website).

still thinking about wheel chocks. those rubber ones are expensive... on the other hand it's a sort of matter of life and death if things go wrong... are those cheapest metal blocks bad? probably they suck on uneven surface (and wet for instance)... after second thoughts perhaps i will get at least plastic blocks (better grip on surface)...

***fenixus*** · 10-25-2009, 01:06 PM

ok. here i'm back. torin jack lift is in fact too low to put stands in factory support points AND make the (rear) wheels clear off the ground. i have to keep car lifted by about 1 more inch up so the wheels are above ground, then after taking the wheels off i can lower car onto jack stands for working (and safety).

will be getting a different jack soon.

***fenixus*** · 10-25-2009, 07:26 PM

i picked up a little higher and stronger compact jack (with case) from Autozone for $45. it is Duralast 2-1/2t model going up to max of 14-15/16'' if i remember correctly, that's over 1'' higher than Torin 2t (Pep Boys) jack.

however (used Duralast on front only, while Torin i used for rear only) it seems that i still need 1'' higher in front to put jack stands high enough for wheels to hang in the air. seems like all i need is a piece of 2x4 that i should use between jacking point and the lifting arm.

with this i should be able to put car on my 3t jack stands (extended to 2nd click) and have wheels above ground. with either jack i tried so far i could extend stands by 1 click only which is not enough for wheels to get above ground.

EDIT:
on second thoughts I will return Autozone jack (Duralast), it misses a handle and there is one loose metal cover sheet. seems someone used it before me and screwed it up LOL.

found this combo deal:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950140000P

Craftsman 2 1/4 ton jack 18'' lift height! with 2 stands free ($60 total). it makes me return HF jack stands and current floor jacks (both of them hehe). screw the carrier case. i need small and high lift jack.

UPDATE:
that craftsman 2-1/4t jack goes max to 15'' per manual. sears has a typo on their website ... damn. I am still looking for a compact jack ... PB and AZ didn't work out so well... maybe i will take that HF jack after all, 15-5/8" sounds highest among all of them (compact class) ?