Replaced caliper on '97 Camry V6 -> no brake pressure - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

eikeland · 10-22-2009, 04:36 PM

I replaced the brake caliper (Front right) on my '97 Camry V6, but ran into some problems... I can't seem to get the pressure back up, so the car is parked for now. There was a little bit of fluid that leaked out, but I added brake fluid to compensate for this and the fluid that was in the old caliper. However, I still can't seem to get a brake pressure. There seems to be a small leak around the banjo fittings, so I ordered some new ones, but even with this leak I expected to get at least a little pressure. Is there anything else I need to do, such as bleeding when I dis-connect the brake lines? Hope to get it right next time so I don't have to dis-connect another time...

Thank you for your help.

njerald · 10-22-2009, 04:44 PM

Of course you have to bleed the line(s).........

LE05 · 10-22-2009, 05:27 PM

you should ALWAYS bleed the lines anytime you open the brake system to the air. honestly, if you don't know this basic fact, you should not be working on your own brakes. bring it to a professional next time, its for your own good and safety.

RU2CHKN · 10-22-2009, 05:52 PM

Bleed it out!

***JohnGD*** · 10-22-2009, 07:44 PM

Check out this brake bleeding article:
http://corp.advanceautoparts.com/eng...20011001bb.asp

You have to bleed the system whenever you open up the hydraulic system (replaced caliper, brake hose, master cylinder, brake lines, etc).

If you have an ABS system, depending on how much air got into the system, you may have to tickle the solenoids and pump motor -- at a properly equipped shop and make sure they have and use an actuator.

Also, sounds like your banjo connection is not properly made. Did you use two new washers? Torque it down properly so it won't leak under higher pressures.

Harbor Freight 1/2"-drive should work fine for that and the wheel lug nuts.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=239

Do consider taking it to a shop.

eikeland · 10-22-2009, 08:27 PM

I don't claim to be an expert and it's the first time I am replacing the calipers. I figured something was wrong, that's why I posted on this forum. Thanks for all the response, even the not so friendly ones.. I never had to bleed the lines before when I opened the reservoir so I wasn't sure if I had to.
I lost one of the banjo fittings on my gravel driveway I found out later, so this probably didn't help either... I got some new ones today though, but I have not had time to install them yet.

***JohnGD*** · 10-22-2009, 08:42 PM

Well, I think people are concern about your safety and those around you. Sure maybe it could be expressed in other ways.

Removing the cap of the reservoir does not require you to bleed the system. The washers are use-once only.

My only concern now is how much air got into the system and if that will require ABS bleeding. The manual says no need, but that's only if air is in the primary circuit. If air got into the secondary pressure relieving circuit than you'd need to (even if the shops/dealers tell you otherwise).

Haynes suggested that if only a caliper is removed only that wheel needs to be bled. I'd bleed that wheel first, see if you get a firm pedal. And then all four to change out all old fluid, both with an assistant in the manual bleed method.

Get a quart of Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4 at Autozone (on sale ~$6?), or Castrol GT LMA (low moisture activity ~$9).

Do get a torque wrench if you don't have one yet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by eikeland

I don't claim to be an expert and it's the first time I am replacing the calipers. I figured something was wrong, that's why I posted on this forum. Thanks for all the response, even the not so friendly ones.. I never had to bleed the lines before when I opened the reservoir so I wasn't sure if I had to.
I lost one of the banjo fittings on my gravel driveway I found out later, so this probably didn't help either... I got some new ones today though, but I have not had time to install them yet.

LE05 · 10-22-2009, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eikeland

I don't claim to be an expert and it's the first time I am replacing the calipers. I figured something was wrong, that's why I posted on this forum. Thanks for all the response, even the not so friendly ones.. I never had to bleed the lines before when I opened the reservoir so I wasn't sure if I had to.
I lost one of the banjo fittings on my gravel driveway I found out later, so this probably didn't help either... I got some new ones today though, but I have not had time to install them yet.

i don't mean to be unfriendly, but the brakes ARE a critical safety component to your car. if you've never done it before, at least do a little research or get a hayne's manual... especially if that is your only vehicle. if something goes wrong or you do not have all the parts before hand, you won't be able to use your vehicle.

as far as my comment regarding bleeding the lines, that only applies if you open the lines or fittings; this is because air will enter the lines. air easily compresses and brake fluid does not... this is why you have no pressure in the lines. bleeding the lines is unnecessary if you open the reservoir cap, air is not likely to enter the lines from that point unless the fluid is extremely low.

Novice_cardude · 10-22-2009, 09:43 PM

Just a couple other quick things, I think everyone else here has gotten across that you need new banjo washers and no air in the system...

First, something I did once and it took me an embarrassingly long time to figure out ... make sure the caliper is on the correct side. it's very easy for a parts house to get the part numbers mixed up, and a caliper will fit on either side. Easiest way to tell is look at the bleeder screw. It should be on the top of the hydraulic cylinder, not the bottom.

Also, did the caliper have any fluid in it when you got it? If it's got a lot of air in it, there's not going to be any pressure because any hydraulic pressure is going to be negated by the air in the caliper. Once you get the banjo washers on there, just take the reservoir cap off and open the bleeder screw on the right front and let it gravity bleed. just make sure your reservoir doesn't run out of fluid. It might take a while for the fluid to start dripping out of the bleeder, but by that time most of the large air pockets will be gone. It might be drivable at that point, so if you're not comfortable with bleeding the rest of the brake system you could call to see if there's a close shop you can limp to that will bleed/flush your brake lines for a reasonable price.

Good luck!

eikeland · 10-22-2009, 10:01 PM

I have another vehicle that I am using since I quickly realized that something was wrong. I will bleed it the best I can so it's drivable and then take it to a pro cause I agree that brakes are critical..

Good point about air not likely to enter the lines when just opening the reservoir cap, makes sense.

asushi · 10-22-2009, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Novice_cardude

Just a couple other quick things, I think everyone else here has gotten across that you need new banjo washers and no air in the system...

new banjo washers can't be stressed enough....

RU2CHKN · 10-22-2009, 10:48 PM

it's best if you have someone else with you when you are bleeding the brakes unless u have a vacuum bleeder. Make sure to have a clear tube connected from the bleeder screw to a bottle with a little brake fluid in it. Then have someone pump the brakes at least 4 times then when the foot is on the brake, open the bleeder screw and see if any bubbles come out. Then when the bubbles are out close the screw.

eikeland · 10-22-2009, 11:00 PM

I got new banjo washers and a helper.
Thanks for all the advice.