My driver-side brake sticks. Very hot disc and feel weird driving. Need help please! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

sintox · 10-27-2009, 01:02 PM

Hi,

Thank you for helping me.

I think my driver-side brake caliper sticks (both sides but the left side is a little more so).
While driving on highway, felt some weirdness on that left side on the highway right after a red-light. So I got out of the highway and went into small streets. It is not a big noise or big pull or anything, just an un-usualness that I felt since I know the car well, a sudden small increase in noise level on that left tire, and a slight pull on that side.

I only have steel wheels and plastic covers, so it's harder to feel than with aluminum wheels.

I've changed the front rotor and pad a couple of months ago and they did well lube the sliding rods.

Also, I've lubed the bottom rod on this brake side last weekend.

Can I spray inside the large hollow cylinder (that pushes the pads together) with something (lubricant) to make it no sticking at least for a few days ?

I would like to make it safe to drive 200km (115k miles) to my parents, they have a 92 Camry with crack windshield, so I can take out (by myself) the caliper.

***fenixus*** · 10-27-2009, 02:07 PM

quick question. when looking at the pads of suspected wheel (with brakes dragging), can you tell which brake pad - the inner or outer - is thicker ?

in short:

a) thicker outer brake pad and thinner inner one points to a sticking piston in brake caliper. easiest solution is to replace the caliper with a remanufactured unit (bracket can stay if the new one fits).

b) thicker inner pad and thinner outer one point to sticking caliper sliding pins. re-greasing them maybe not enough, you may want to simply replace those pins (~$8 in autozone), very quick and simple fix. you may re-use bushings and rubber anchor boots if they look good.

sintox · 10-27-2009, 02:23 PM

I will have to check it. The rotors and pads are a few months new, so it's possible the difference is hard to detect.

Thank you fenixus.

***fenixus*** · 10-27-2009, 02:27 PM

if by any chance you still have old pads it's possible to tell which one was which by looking at corner where the pad level warning thingy was installed (always on the inner pad, sharp side to the rotor).

good luck!

Hajoca · 10-27-2009, 03:17 PM

There are 3 things that may be binding

1 - Piston

2 - Caliper slide (bolts you mentioned)

3 - Pad clips, the stainless steel inserts in the torqu plate that hold the brake pads in position.

Did you drain the caliper psiton fluid when you pushed in the piston carefully and check to see that is is smooth from the pad replacement?

2 Caliper slide pins, I clean out the bore with a shop towel wrapped on a chopstick and solvent, then re lube it with antisieze paste. ( I know your supposed to use a brake lube, but I have used permatex synthetic grease previously and it just dried up and was sticky)

3 Clean the clips with wire brush, lube with anti seize paste. BTW, did you put the 'V' shaped springs back in?

Hajoca · 10-27-2009, 03:18 PM

Sorry,

Can I spray inside the large hollow cylinder (that pushes the pads together) with something (lubricant) to make it no sticking at least for a few days ?

NO, that is the caliper piston. and the spray may foul the pads.

sintox · 10-27-2009, 03:42 PM

You mention this:
3 - Pad clips, the stainless steel inserts in the torqu plate that hold the brake pads in position.

How do I check if the clips has a problem ? Never remove one before (The mechanic did the brakes, I just looked).

He didn't drain, he just bled the fluid. I don't know if the old pad was smooth or not either ?

I have a big bottle of antiseize so now you mention, it's tempting. But I know antiseize actualy "freeze" more than grease, when cold, and here we are near north-pole (j/k).
I put the anti-seize soft bottle outside and the soft bottle was frozen like rock.

And I didn't see the 'V' shaped springs that spread the pads. Is there for a Camry94-I4 ?
Thanks Hajoca

bmxr4life87 · 10-27-2009, 07:13 PM

its also possible that the inner liner of your brake hose has separated from the outer layer and when you apply the brakes the separated piece acts like a check valve trapping fluid in your caliper while all the other sides release... visually inspect your brake hoses for bulges or bubbles and soft spots and then while a friend applies the brakes inspect them again for the same symptoms

sintox · 10-28-2009, 09:59 AM

So I went to the garage where they did the brakes, and one mechanic friend says the car does not have the V-shape wires (springs) that spread the pads !!! No use to convince him.

Is he right ?

Mike Gerber · 10-28-2009, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sintox

So I went to the garage where they did the brakes, and one mechanic friend says the car does not have the V-shape wires (springs) that spread the pads !!! No use to convince him.

Is he right ?

No, it definitely should have the v-shaped springs, but I don't believe that is causing your brake caliper to hang up. The springs are intended to reduce noise. They just keep the pads from vibrating against the rotor when the brakes are not being applied.

Mike

***fenixus*** · 10-28-2009, 01:25 PM

sintox, those springs are mounted in factory on every toyota stock brakes if I'm right.

i don't have them either because i did my brakes 3 years ago in a shop and they probably discarded them together with old shims when installing new aftermarket pads. as Mike said above, those springs only reduce noise, they have nothing to do with dragging. you can get springs from the dealer if you want.

here is the diagram for my car front brakes, you can see the springs and their part number. if you register on this site, give it your car's VIN and it will show you details of your year/model, so you can get correct part numbers if ordering from online stores.
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_200...PNKA_4705.html

sintox · 11-09-2009, 01:32 PM

OK, so just want to update on the brakes.

So I did drive to Montreal and back to Ottawa without problem so thank you all.

Yeah, the small V-spring is not necessary (would cost $43 for the set (per side): 2 springs + clip where the pad's 2 ends slide on).

In the end, I think it just the brake fluid on that side needs to be changed (soon) since a week before that, a broken strut-spring needed to be cut by torch and that must have heated the pipe up.

I tried to change the fluid earlier but the bleed nozzle was seized so I could not open with a pliers-wrench, and my 8mm (I believe) socket is not deep enough. So I put everything back. I will need a small 8mm wrench and try again.

***fenixus*** · 11-09-2009, 01:44 PM

glad to hear it!

it might eb a good idea to do a complete brake fluid flush with something good like Valvoline DOT3&4 or ATE colored stuff.

this wrench works perfectly on toyota bleeder screws, 5/16 box wrench is what you looking for:

Amazon

plus it might be very helpful to borrow a Vacuum Pump from Autozone ($80 deposit) for easier bleeding/flushing the fluid without running to press the brake pedal in cabin and back to bleeding the calipers or getting second person involved

***fenixus*** · 11-09-2009, 01:59 PM

oh and here is a nice DIY on flushing brakes, just add a vacuum pump to this recipe and it will be quick and (fairly) easy:
DIY: 1996 Camry Brake Fluid Flush Procedure (GEN3)

hope it helps!

sintox · 11-09-2009, 02:04 PM

Yeah, I wish I could call Mike Gerber or Fenixus before driving around to have quote for the V-spring AND wait 1hour at the garage (who did the brakes) to ask them: "Did the kid forget something when install. My brake is hot." (I didn't tell them I open it up).