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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-01-2009, 08:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
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it said easy install on the box!!!

ok so yesterday in a probly lapse of judgement i bought the 44 dollar remote starting kit from wal mart
it looked apealing said easy install on the box!!! no shit easy i can do that right?
well i opened it today and woa therys alot of wires and a dvd to help you do it and the instruction book is moastly about spliceing wires and using electrical tape

should i venture into this?
return the item and call myself defeated?
it seems of decent quality
has anyone done this?
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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sounds like something I would rather not do myself.
but if you do it, you should make a DIY
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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They are easy to install, if you know basic electrical theory and have the full wiring schematics for your car.
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I would return it. Aftermarket remote starters cause enough trouble as it is. A cheap one installed by someone doing it for their first time is bound to cause some no starts later on.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asphalt victory View Post
ok so yesterday in a probly lapse of judgement i bought the 44 dollar remote starting kit from wal mart
FAIL....return it.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i wouldn't mess with cheap (not quality) products. may have problems down the road.
jut wait, save up some $$ and get a legitimate remote start/alram

i would like to think i installed a good quality starter/alarm in my car
i used http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3004023

Last edited by abew330; 11-01-2009 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I got a cheap $40 DesignTech remote starter from PepBoys 4 years ago. It came with a pamphlet with the color codes for the ignition harness, which made it really easy. As long as you can splice wires and read color codes you can do the install.

Over the last 4 years, the only problem I had was that the battery died in my remote, so I replaced the battery.

Word to the wise: when splicing, don't just twist the wires together and tape up. Either solder them or use those crimp on splicing things.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2104093
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Old 11-01-2009, 12:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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x2 on the twist-n-electric tape on the wires method, - the insides of cars get really really hot/cold and the adhesive compound on electrical tape will deteriorate with a quickness! then the tape will come loose, wires flying, sticky mess- etc. .. it gets ugly- plus crimps are soo damn cheap, easy to use and sturdier.

with that in mind.. do it! (:
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i agree with no to cheap alarms i had a cheap keyless from jcw changed it twice and i just had to pull it out after 2 years when the starter kill just perama kill everything
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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ok ok mixed reviews i like that
i would never just twist wires together im a fan of the 3m heat shrink connectors myself
i just looked up on parts train and they are selling the same unit for over 100 bucks...weird? and it is the only unit they sell everything seems pretty hi quality except the instructions and install kit witch in theyr defense they are trying to market it for the masses
im going to fully research it tonight on bully dogs website
i like the ideas of starting my car eating breakfast then getting into my nice warm car
appreciate the opinions ill try to take pics....when i jump in
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Old 11-01-2009, 05:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The 3M splice connectors work ok for under the dash, but don't think of putting them under the hood! They just won't last, as they don't seal the connection. The copper wire will corrode. I always prefer wrap + solder + heat shrink.
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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solder is just too much of a pain in the ass for me i agree its the right way but i have done alot of marine wiring and unless its constantly wet it will be fine
plus most of the wires in the kit are tinned
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Old 11-01-2009, 07:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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+1 for solder and heatsink.

You can't compare a car to a boat mate. Wrap and tape won't last in a hot/cold environment. I used tape to hold something in under my bonnet and that came undone after about a year.
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Old 11-01-2009, 07:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i am going to use 3m heat shrink butt connectors i have had no problems with the when done right and yes i have used straight copper and tinned copper on boats the tinned is more expensive but give it 6 years in salt water and it will corrode if everything on a stock 5sfe harness saw the saltwater environment it would corrode in 2 years BUT luckily its in a hot dry climate under the hood

look at your main harness and tell me everything on it is soldered...
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If you think that under the hood stays dry or salt free you are very wrong, But anyways those 3m shrink connectors will do fine, It was the splices that 95PimpingCamry linked to that I was talking about.
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