3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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A couple of years ago I bought a set of Dorman lug nuts. 16 regular lug nuts and four locking ones, with a key. Well, I started to notice they were kinda shitty to begin with. They got beat up too quickly.
Yesterday I tried removing a wheel... and attempts at removing the locking nut with the key failed miserably. The metal on both the nut and the key just rounded out.
Today I bought a whole new set of these crappy lug nuts just for the key, so I could attempt to remove all four locking nuts and replace them with the originals (which still worked, but weren't looking too nice after seven years of use).
The rear two removed fine. But while attempting to remove the front passenger side locking lug nut, the same thing happened, and it ruined the new key.
I went over to Sam's Club to get a free tire rotation. They said they would attempt to remove the two front nuts for me. However, after waiting an hour, the guy tried... and turns out he didn't have the right socket that would stick to the lug nut. He recommended I check Pep Boy's for the socket. I went there and I found it. $25 for two sizes. The sockets have threading inside and are supposed to screw onto the damaged lug nut, and then using an impact gun it should unscrew.
I'm curious if anybody has done this successfully, and if so, do you have any tips or suggestions?
__________________
2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
A trusty hole-in-the-wall tire shop took one off for me years ago.
They tried a couple of tools and used what you described (bolt-out/nut-out type of a thing) on their usual impact gun and got it out.
I'll say try a tire shop.
The only wheel lock I'd use is the McGard. It's used by many car manufacturers as well. "Guaranteed for life not to rust, chip, or peel!" IMO, Dorman really isn't a trusted brand anymore for things important.
A couple of years ago I bought a set of Dorman lug nuts. 16 regular lug nuts and four locking ones, with a key. Well, I started to notice they were kinda shitty to begin with. They got beat up too quickly.
Yesterday I tried removing a wheel... and attempts at removing the locking nut with the key failed miserably. The metal on both the nut and the key just rounded out.
Today I bought a whole new set of these crappy lug nuts just for the key, so I could attempt to remove all four locking nuts and replace them with the originals (which still worked, but weren't looking too nice after seven years of use).
The rear two removed fine. But while attempting to remove the front passenger side locking lug nut, the same thing happened, and it ruined the new key.
I went over to Sam's Club to get a free tire rotation. They said they would attempt to remove the two front nuts for me. However, after waiting an hour, the guy tried... and turns out he didn't have the right socket that would stick to the lug nut. He recommended I check Pep Boy's for the socket. I went there and I found it. $25 for two sizes. The sockets have threading inside and are supposed to screw onto the damaged lug nut, and then using an impact gun it should unscrew.
I'm curious if anybody has done this successfully, and if so, do you have any tips or suggestions?
idk if people would like me to post this but here goes...
you could do i guess do it yourself...to save some cash. get a slightly smaller socket then the lug nut, then hammer it onto the lug nut. it will be a very tight fit, and probably deform the socket, but afterwards youll be able to twist them off. beats paying a shop to take them off ya know
Apparently Dorman is also the manufacturer of that shitty hood latch assembly I bought. I won't ever by anything made by them again. LESSON LEARNED!
I already ordered OEM wheel locks from the dealer today. They were $35 with a new key. However, I still do want new lug nuts. So I will definitely check out McGard. OEM dealer ones were $3.50 each. Raybestos from RockAuto were even more. I wonder how much McGard's will be.
EDIT: Oh yeah... I called Pep Boy's and they'd charge me up to $50 per wheel or nut (I don't remember what he said). So... $100 doesn't sound ideal for something that isn't guaranteed. If that doesn't work, they'd have to use a torch to break off the lug stud. Of course that isn't a huge deal 'cause I am already going to change those hub assemblies. But for that $100 service, my dad and I could try the same thing. He has an impact gun and an air compressor/hose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD
A trusty hole-in-the-wall tire shop took one off for me years ago.
They tried a couple of tools and used what you described (bolt-out/nut-out type of a thing) on their usual impact gun and got it out.
I'll say try a tire shop.
The only wheel lock I'd use is the McGard. It's used by many car manufacturers as well. "Guaranteed for life not to rust, chip, or peel!" IMO, Dorman really isn't a trusted brand anymore for things important.
I already ordered OEM wheel locks from the dealer today. They were $35 with a new key. However, I still do want new lug nuts. So I will definitely check out McGard. OEM dealer ones were $3.50 each. Raybestos from RockAuto were even more. I wonder how much McGard's will be.
OEM Toyota Wheel Locks are McGard, so good choice there. I would definitely get McGard lug nuts as well... they are a bit more expensive but they last really long. Just for a reference, McGard sells a whole kit, which summitracing.com sells for about $52: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCG-84537/
Kit includes 4 locks and key, 20 lug nuts, and 4 valve stems: http://www.mcgard.com/Applications/A...xLKL6QeA%3d%3d
__________________
2005 Camry "LE"
TL HID Retrofit | OEM Fogs | SE Bumper | SE Grill | Factory Spoiler | Kosei K1 TS 18x7.5 | BC Racing Coilovers
TRD [RSB | Strut Tower Brace | Exhaust] || Rear Drum to Disc Swap
If you already have a good air compressor handy. I would recommend buying a nice air chisel, you can spin em right off that way. It will become your favorite tool. Chicago Pneumatic makes some nice ones.
Or find a mechanic with one that knows how to operate it.
Last edited by Kenny_McCormic; 11-07-2009 at 07:21 AM.
My friend broke his lug key on his VW GTI a few years ago and we got it off with the mini gator-grip. It was just the right size to fit around the locking lug, and all the pins in the gator-grip were able to successfully grab the locking lug. This will destroy the gator-grip though.
His locking lugs were tuner style with wheels that have such small lug holes, they require tuner lugs. I don't know if that matters, but that was the only time I've very done this.
__________________ All of the lag, none of the boost.
VTEC It's like waiting for really bad sex.
That's an interesting thought!! However, since now Costcos does them using a torque wrench, no problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLIP K1DD
idk if people would like me to post this but here goes...
you could do i guess do it yourself...to save some cash. get a slightly smaller socket then the lug nut, then hammer it onto the lug nut. it will be a very tight fit, and probably deform the socket, but afterwards youll be able to twist them off. beats paying a shop to take them off ya know
Might just want to the lug nuts from the dealer. They may be McGard actually.
When you open up the keyed lug nut package, see if there is a warranty sheet and where to send it. Good chance it's McGard.
$100? Ouch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by haux
Apparently Dorman is also the manufacturer of that shitty hood latch assembly I bought. I won't ever by anything made by them again. LESSON LEARNED!
I already ordered OEM wheel locks from the dealer today. They were $35 with a new key. However, I still do want new lug nuts. So I will definitely check out McGard. OEM dealer ones were $3.50 each. Raybestos from RockAuto were even more. I wonder how much McGard's will be.
EDIT: Oh yeah... I called Pep Boy's and they'd charge me up to $50 per wheel or nut (I don't remember what he said). So... $100 doesn't sound ideal for something that isn't guaranteed. If that doesn't work, they'd have to use a torch to break off the lug stud. Of course that isn't a huge deal 'cause I am already going to change those hub assemblies. But for that $100 service, my dad and I could try the same thing. He has an impact gun and an air compressor/hose.
My friend broke his lug key on his VW GTI a few years ago and we got it off with the mini gator-grip. It was just the right size to fit around the locking lug, and all the pins in the gator-grip were able to successfully grab the locking lug. This will destroy the gator-grip though.
His locking lugs were tuner style with wheels that have such small lug holes, they require tuner lugs. I don't know if that matters, but that was the only time I've very done this.
Done and done. I didn't think using a regular socket would work because the locking lug nuts are round, they don't have a hex shape to them.
Those special sockets I bought with the threading inside didn't fit... so no go there.
However, my dad also has those sockets that aren't hex shape, but have a bunch of spiky things inside? I don't know what those are called. But he hammered on one of those that was a really tight fit, and used the impact gun. They came out easily.
So because of that I got to change my calipers today. And replaced some of the old brake fluid that was a dark black/green color. Didn't wanna mess with the master cylinder with only an hours worth of light left, but it looks easy enough for another day.
__________________
2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
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