3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I've got a V6 Camry and am trying to do my first car repair of any sort. I got a check engine error code that makes the fuel filter seem likely since my only signs are worse gas mileage (and I did both o2 sensors last year). Anyway, I don't see how I'm supposed to remove the top part. There's no clearly visible bolt. What should I be looking to remove on the top part?
The bottom part I guess I need to find a friend with a flare wrench to borrow if I can find one. I can't unscrew the bolt otherwise. It's pretty darn tight. Is that normal?
Now I'm not a pro, but I really doubt that a bad fuel filter would throw a check engine light. I could be wrong. Did your code reader only give the number? I purchased a code reader that gives you the number and what it means.
The guy you want to ask about swapping out your fuel filter is trd4life. He knows exactly what you need to do/use to do this.
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2001 Camry with too many parts to list!!!
Is the top quick-connect style fitting? You may need a new click-on plastic clip if the old one breaks.
Relieve fuel pressure first and disconnect battery after that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamcarnoob
I've got a V6 Camry and am trying to do my first car repair of any sort. I got a check engine error code that makes the fuel filter seem likely since my only signs are worse gas mileage (and I did both o2 sensors last year). Anyway, I don't see how I'm supposed to remove the top part. There's no clearly visible bolt. What should I be looking to remove on the top part?
The bottom part I guess I need to find a friend with a flare wrench to borrow if I can find one. I can't unscrew the bolt otherwise. It's pretty darn tight. Is that normal?
Besides what Iamcarnoob mentioned, sure, a plugged fuel filter can do it too. IMO, these wimpy fuel filters are best replaced 15-20K miles.
I was referring to your comment about "I don't see how I'm supposed to remove the top part. There's no clearly visible bolt." So I said it's a quick connect type connection. No bolts needed.
Are you talking about the banjo on the fuel rail? Not sure you need to touch that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamcarnoob
Error code is P0174 Air/Fuel mixture systeam lean bank 2.
Which wrench do I use for the banjo bolt?
What do you mean by style fitting? The quick connect on top is tight on there at the moment but I haven't loosened anything.
I don't think anybody ever did a fuel filter comparison like many have done with engine oil filters. So can't say about various filters' quality.
I guess you can use any name brand fuel filter, such as Toyota's Denso, Fram, Wix, etc. Whatever makes you sleep at night. The small size means more frequent replacements to reduce loads on the fuel pump. It also depends on how clean your local gas station is.
I use the latter two brands on many different cars. However, with the newer in-tank filters I'd use only OEM. These large ones should be good > 100K miles however.
The small size means more frequent replacements to reduce loads on the fuel pump.
Are these same small fuel filters used on all years of the Gen4 Camry?
A parts salesperson advised:
Quote:
I would not change the fuel filter. Unless the car has been sitting for years and not been driven. You run the risk of bending the lines that go to the filter and causing yourself more grief
How much of a concern is this for do-it-yourself owners and for the pros?
I believe the in-tank only came with Gen 5 and later.
Sure, if you live where corrosion is a problem then you need to be careful. The flare connection isn't the smartest for these regions. Or a twisted fuel pipe will result!
So my guess is, like spark plugs, these things shouldn't be left on there forever.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chasman
Are these same small fuel filters used on all years of the Gen4 Camry?
A parts salesperson advised:
How much of a concern is this for do-it-yourself owners and for the pros?
i had a filter throw a lean code got some dirty gas in pembrook pines (near miami) changed the filter hasn't come back since.
the top of the filter is a banjo bolt that i normally take out with just a socket wrench with an extension. i have a fram in mine right now had it for about 7 years no problems so far.
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Signature Suspended as it is in violation of signature rules.
^ and leaving it that way!
I believe the in-tank only came with Gen 5 and later.
So all Gen4 (1997-2001) use "these wimpy (small size) fuel filters"?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD
Sure, if you live where corrosion is a problem then you need to be careful. The flare connection isn't the smartest for these regions. Or a twisted fuel pipe will result!
So my guess is, like spark plugs, these things shouldn't be left on there forever.
Thanks for the additional info.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD
"Sure, if you live where corrosion is a problem ...
Such as any region where salt is used on the roads in winter?
The I4 has a banjo top bolt. The later V6 has a click-on quick connect style. I rather also see a banjo for the lower one but they put a silly flare connect on there.
Fram will probably give you more filtration area than a Wix. But the Fram media is paper thin and kinda folded/rolled into a toilet paper roll on a plastic cob. The Wix is more like an oil filter plated element. Different designs, but probably don't matter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chronoti
i had a filter throw a lean code got some dirty gas in pembrook pines (near miami) changed the filter hasn't come back since.
the top of the filter is a banjo bolt that i normally take out with just a socket wrench with an extension. i have a fram in mine right now had it for about 7 years no problems so far.
Good morning,
I am the technical manager for FRAM. I am happy to answer any questions you may have about fuel filters. Most OE filters that are not in tank do not see restriction untill around 75k miles. BUT-If you live in a area were they use salt on the roads in the winter, you should change it more frequently only to be able to keep the threads clean and coated with antisieze. You can get the tube nut frozen on the line and then twist the line when removing it. Questions answered on this forum or directly at Jay.Buckley@Honeywell.com
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Fuel filter quality?
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