3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
So my brother started his 1996 Camry with the 2.2 and at idle the oil light was on. Giving it gas to speed up the motor the light goes off...Oil level is full. Any idea's? Bad pump?
Yeah, if the pressure is way low you'll have to check the pump pickup, oil pump (including bypass valve), and filter. If those are all working then you'll have to check bearing oil clearances.
What weight oil?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chanur96
So my brother started his 1996 Camry with the 2.2 and at idle the oil light was on. Giving it gas to speed up the motor the light goes off...Oil level is full. Any idea's? Bad pump?
I believe the oil is 10W-30. The filter has been on for a few hundred miles and it just started acting up out of the blue, never having done this before. I have decided I will be on the safe side and replace the pump and inspect/clean the pick up.
This happens to me frequently on cold starts. Low oil light comes on and goes away in about three seconds or less. I'm told this is due to the mounting of the oil filter and the oil pickup system. I thought the oil filter was so easy to change due to location...now I see how gawdawful the design really is.
Even with a filter that has good anti-drainback characteristics (Purolator PureOne) it happens, but only for a flash now (less then a second). Supposedly the Toyota OE filter was designed to have excellent anti-drainback to help with this issue. FWIW, I am running 10w-30 Synthetic Blend (High Mileage).
That weight is fine as long as you are above -10 deg C or so. I wonder if it's the oil filter if this thing happened shortly after an oil change. What brand of filter? Just curious.
I'd try to pin point it to a pump before doing all that work to tear it apart. And usually we try to reverse/redo what was recently done -- in your case an oil change.
I mean, you can go to Pep Boys and get a Purolator PureOne or even the cheaper Premium Plus (= Pep Boy's Proline) to test.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chanur96
I believe the oil is 10W-30. The filter has been on for a few hundred miles and it just started acting up out of the blue, never having done this before. I have decided I will be on the safe side and replace the pump and inspect/clean the pick up.
Yeah, Toyota realized it was a stupid design too. They changed it later. Except in Chanur96's case the Oil Light comes on whenever the RPM drops! So this is more than a cold start issue.
I don't think Toyota's anti-drainback is any better that a Pep Boy's Proline filter. I like the OEM air filter. however, IMO the OEM oil filters stink.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doh Nuts
I'm told this is due to the mounting of the oil filter and the oil pickup system. I thought the oil filter was so easy to change due to location...now I see how gawdawful the design really is.
Even with a filter that has good anti-drainback characteristics (Purolator PureOne) it happens, but only for a flash now (less then a second). Supposedly the Toyota OE filter was designed to have excellent anti-drainback to help with this issue. FWIW, I am running 10w-30 Synthetic Blend (High Mileage).
Yeah, Toyota realized it was a stupid design too. They changed it later. Except in Chanur96's case the Oil Light comes on whenever the RPM drops! So this is more than a cold start issue.
I don't think Toyota's anti-drainback is any better that a Pep Boy's Proline filter. I like the OEM air filter. however, IMO the OEM oil filters stink.
Ah, my reading comprehension skills failed me. I thought it was an "on start" issue. In that case, with rpm drop, I would guess oil pump, maybe clogged pickup? I'm just a shadetree mechanic at best, but it's my $.02.
Off topic a bit: Pep Boys Proline isn't a bad filter, good filtration qualities but I don't use them because there isn't a PepBoys near me and I pretty much stick to four or five brands exclusively: Mobil 1, K&N, Purolator PureOne (love the redesign!), Bosch, Wix/Carquest. I used Fram XtraGuard on my wife's van the past couple of changes because I neglected to order more Purolator PureOne, and none of the other brands were on sale locally. Normally I avoid Fram, but decided to give the XtraGuard (supposedly their best filter) a try. The regular Frams are a bad choice, IMO, based on my past experience and on the reviews I've read. I mostly stay away from the Toyota OE oil filter due to price.
Bosch bought up Purolator a few years back. So their PureOne and Bosch are starting to look alike. Bosch still has a lot of Champion Labs filters out there, which makes the Mobil 1.
I know some here are using the larger filters for the V6 and even the I4, such as the PL20195, Bosch 3422 and Mobil-1 M-209. For those Motorcraft FL400S works too, supposedly a Purolator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doh Nuts
Off topic a bit: Pep Boys Proline isn't a bad filter, good filtration qualities but I don't use them because there isn't a PepBoys near me and I pretty much stick to four or five brands exclusively: Mobil 1, K&N, Purolator PureOne (love the redesign!), Bosch, Wix/Carquest. I used Fram XtraGuard on my wife's van the past couple of changes because I neglected to order more Purolator PureOne, and none of the other brands were on sale locally. Normally I avoid Fram, but decided to give the XtraGuard (supposedly their best filter) a try. The regular Frams are a bad choice, IMO, based on my past experience and on the reviews I've read. I mostly stay away from the Toyota OE oil filter due to price.
Bosch bought up Purolator a few years back. So their PureOne and Bosch are starting to look alike. Bosch still has a lot of Champion Labs filters out there, which makes the Mobil 1.
I know some here are using the larger filters for the V6 and even the I4, such as the PL20195, Bosch 3422 and Mobil-1 M-209. For those Motorcraft FL400S works too, supposedly a Purolator.
Thanks! I guess it's the one thing I've splurged on with my more recent cars. I've owned quite a few, would buy a cheap car, fix the things that needed work, then drove them for awhile and sold them for what I paid, maybe a bit more. I guess I grew out of that lately, but returned to that with my latest Camry. I figure it might be nice to have a car without payments for a little while.
Re Bosch/Purolator: Huh. I guess that's why on another forum I frequent they say that Purolator and Bosch are pretty much the same thing. I knew about the Champion Labs/Mobil 1 connection but not the Purolator/Bosch one. The Bosch I've used are the Black slick exterior, didn't realize the guts are probably very similar to the Purolator PureOne. I've got the regular fitment, PL14476 and the larger fitment, PL14477 (I think those are the p/n).
Many of the AC Delcos look like Champion Labs as well, with the heavy gauge base plate.
I don't think there is a reason for the shorter PL14476 anymore. You can just use the PL14477 on the I4. I've read people using V6 sized filter on the I4! But clearly that void warranty, if any.
According to FreeYello2000, there is a larger, oversized filter for the V6 and light truck I4. "If it uses FRAM part number PH3614, then a PH3600 will fit perfectly if you have enough clearance." PH3600 = Motorcraft FL400S size.
The Bosch I've used are the Black slick exterior, didn't realize the guts are probably very similar to the Purolator PureOne. I've got the regular fitment, PL14476 and the larger fitment, PL14477 (I think those are the p/n).
Many of the AC Delcos look like Champion Labs as well, with the heavy gauge base plate.
I don't think there is a reason for the shorter PL14476 anymore. You can just use the PL14477 on the I4. I've read people using V6 sized filter on the I4! But clearly that void warranty, if any.
According to FreeYello2000, there is a larger, oversized filter for the V6 and light truck I4. "If it uses FRAM part number PH3614, then a PH3600 will fit perfectly if you have enough clearance." PH3600 = Motorcraft FL400S size.
The prices between the two PureOne filters are about the same (if anything, maybe $.30 where I get them). I don't have any warranty at all on my car...but even still I probably won't get the V6 filter if it's different. Doing just fine with the ones I've got. I tend to stock up on oil filters and oil if they are on sale, I figure I will use them eventually, and I'm an oil change or two ahead in supplies.
Occasionally there is a good buy on Epay on OEM's though they can come from different countries. I think Purolator has OEM'ed for Toyota in the US. I would pull the sensor and check with a real gauge.
I use 14477s on 2 Gen 4's but if you take a close look an at the block, the filter "boss" (the "ring") is wide enough that larger diameter filters would seal (within reason). The thread on the "pipe" is a standard.
I have one V6 Camry as well and the V6 filter gasket diameter is wider but it wil still seat on the I4 block.
Have not actually tried one, though. Had several SAABs (don't start, one went almost 400K) and their
filters were hung upside down. They would be full of oil when removed, and if you were lucky none of it spilled. Don't recall any cold start pressure problems even when I was dumb enough to use Fram...Google "minimopar oil filter comparison" for the truth. EE type cut apart dozens of brands. Fram, except fot the top of line Ptooy.
That's one of the oil filter tests that I've read. Pretty good stuff, if you have the time and the interest. I can see his argument about less flow with the PureOne due to the element used, but it's really my go to filter. Around $4.50 a filter compared to the Mobil 1 or K&N which even on sale are around $7-8 (normally 10-12+).
And don't sleep on Saabs; I think they are pretty durable in the engine/transmission. I hear it's the various electrical stuff that will drive you nuts.
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