3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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As the title says, I had trouble removing the right side halfshaft today (longer one of the two). I got the snap-ring off, removed that one bolt, but that effing bearing is stuck in there really tight. It wouldn't budge a millimeter. Sprayed PB plaster in various areas, no luck. Is there a trick to it or does it just need to be hammered out?
We're gonna try doing the left side tomorrow. But I don't know what to do about this right one if we can't get it to move.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
I did my dad's a month ago.......I had to remove the entire BRACKET to get the axle out. Then I ended up replacing the damn bracket. It was SO siezed in, even the hydrolic press couldn't pop the carrier bearing from the bracket.
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Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
I did my dad's a month ago.......I had to remove the entire BRACKET to get the axle out. Then I ended up replacing the damn bracket. It was SO siezed in, even the hydrolic press couldn't pop the carrier bearing from the bracket.
I was thinking about taking down the whole bracket, but didn't really consider having to replace it. Do you remember what it's called? Maybe I can snag the part number from the dealer and order it on 1sttoyotaparts.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
So, apparently it's called the Drive Shaft Bearing Bracket, but that site doesn't show it at all. They have part numbers/price of the bolt and snap ring for it, but not the bracket itself. That's ok though, I'll harass my dealer first thing Monday.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
This is really starting to get annoying. The left shaft won't come out either. There's nothing clearly holding it in place, other than the inside of the differential. What the hell is up? It pulls out maybe a couple millimeters and then stops. Once again tried using my lug nut bar to pry it out and... nothing.
How the hell do shops get these fuckers to move?
EDIT: Wasted another two hours today... this time in the rain.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
This is really starting to get annoying. The left shaft won't come out either. There's nothing clearly holding it in place, other than the inside of the differential. What the hell is up? It pulls out maybe a couple millimeters and then stops. Once again tried using my lug nut bar to pry it out and... nothing.
How the hell do shops get these fuckers to move?
EDIT: Wasted another two hours today... this time in the rain.
driver side is held by a c clip at the end of the shaft, you really need a little bit of force to pull it out, if you pay attention at the axle, the shaft housing has 3 little denture, pick anyone, get a real prybar, and rotate the axle to the nearest bolt on the differential, and pry against the bolt with a big push at once, one shot. it will come out, you can also try pry against aa 2x4 stud on differential if you afraid to scatch the aluminum. lug wrench might work, but a little big longer pry bar helps.
If a halfshaft won't come out, push it back in and rotate the wheel 120 degrees (1/3 turn) and try again. This helps put the circlip in the right orientation so it would be easier to pry it out. You may have to try a few times.
Most of the time it's getting the circlip back in that might take some time. Try the same.
As far as the passenger side. Take the support out and PB blast it. It's a good time to replace the bearing. And with 330+K miles it should be replaced.
Quote:
Originally Posted by haux
This is really starting to get annoying. The left shaft won't come out either. There's nothing clearly holding it in place, other than the inside of the differential. What the hell is up? It pulls out maybe a couple millimeters and then stops. Once again tried using my lug nut bar to pry it out and... nothing.
How the hell do shops get these fuckers to move?
EDIT: Wasted another two hours today... this time in the rain.
If a halfshaft won't come out, push it back in and rotate the wheel 120 degrees (1/3 turn) and try again. This helps put the circlip in the right orientation so it would be easier to pry it out. You may have to try a few times.
Most of the time it's getting the circlip back in that might take some time. Try the same.
As far as the passenger side. Take the support out and PB blast it. It's a good time to replace the bearing. And with 330+K miles it should be replaced.
I will try that. I did try rotating the wheel a bit... but we'll give it another shot of course.
However, regarding the bearing, I'm replacing both shafts entirely, not just doing maintenance on them. So the bearing is included on the new one. Today when we were trying the driver's side shaft, I did notice the inner boot has a tear in it. First time seeing that. No sign of anything leaking out though.
Also, I JUST remembered that I bought the differential seals for the shafts. I'm sort of glad we weren't able to get them out now, because I would have forgotten. Is changing those pretty straightforward? Do they just go inside the holes... or is there anything I need to know first?
And, now I see where the rear engine and transmission mounts are. I might buy those now as changing them out will be easier with all of that stuff disassembled.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
Yeah, I didn't mean actually pressing in the bearing. Some people actually bought just the one outer halfshaft and missed a good chance to swap out the bearing that's on the inner halfshaft. But most people don't driver over 330K miles either.
Then carefully tap the new seal in using a large socket or one of those Home Depot PVC pipe. Coat the halfshaft contact surface with a little ATF and the inner lip of the seal too. Transmission assembly lube actually would be ideal, but I don't have any. Some seals come with a little silicone grease on the inner lip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by haux
Also, I JUST remembered that I bought the differential seals for the shafts. I'm sort of glad we weren't able to get them out now, because I would have forgotten. Is changing those pretty straightforward? Do they just go inside the holes... or is there anything I need to know first?
And, now I see where the rear engine and transmission mounts are. I might buy those now as changing them out will be easier with all of that stuff disassembled.
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