1995 Cold start

[Folken]

You know how the engine rpm goes >1000 when you first start up and then you have to kick it lower or it goes lower?
Well this morning I noticed mine goes right to 800 and falls right off and engine dies.
It may have been doing this for a while but didin't die cause it was still warm in the morings; but I noticed this morning cause it was cold out and it dies right away unless I keep my foot on the acelerator.
Once warmed up it was Ok and I went to work.

Any ideas why the rpm drops immediately now and how to fix?

...............Thanks in advance Folken..............

[mazdaverx7]

could be a few things. my initial thought points to a faulty coolant temperature sensor. this will send a signal to the ecu letting it know that the engins temps are low and to increase the idle to warm the engine up.

[Folken]

you mention some other ideas. Can you share them please?........

[hill8570]

I'll second mazdaverx7 -- 90%+ it's the coolant temp sensor. Follow the top coolant hose back from the radiator to the engine -- the coolant sensor is the one with two wires going into it, and usually a green connector. Are you getting a Check Engine Light? A hard-fail (open or short) on this sensor will cause a CEL, a DTC 22, and cause the computer to default to the "warmed up" condition (which don't work for crap on a cold engine). Lots of times, 'tho, the sensor soft-fails (just gives readings that are "off" enough to cause problems). The 5S-FE portion of the Gen3 manual over on www.camrystuff.com has a nice write-up on testing the coolant sensor (look for the portion of the 5S-FE section that discusses troubleshooting DTC 22).

[Mike Gerber]

My guess would be a dirty/carboned up idle air control valve. That was my problem with my 5SFE. Cleaning the idle air control valve solved my issue and now the car revs to around 1300-1500 on initial cold start and then immediately drops to 1200. From there it will drop slowly to 800 as it warms up.

Mike

[JohnGD]

The Idle Air Control valve is notorious for that. However, I've heard the Coolant Temperature Sensor can contribute to that. An ohm test on the sensor is quick and easy. So check both.

[ekopel]

I've actually experience both. Just do the check for both like the boys say.

[ekopel]

if it is your coolant temp sensor, I have another one.

[mazdaverx7]

i would definatly test both the coolant temp sensor and the idle air control valve per the fsm.

[Folken]

I have the dealer telling me it needs a new IDC and they will not clean the throttle valve as they said it could make the probelm worse. They want $1,000+ for the job.
I said no thanks..........Folken

I will check the coolent temperature sensor and then clean the throttle myself next..........thanks

[hill8570]

Originally Posted by Folken

I have the dealer telling me it needs a new IDC and they will not clean the throttle valve as they said it could make the probelm worse. They want $1,000+ for the job.
I said no thanks..........Folken

I will check the coolent temperature sensor and then clean the throttle myself next..........thanks

Also, start asking your friends for recommendations for an honest, competent mechanic. Even if you fix this yourself, it's always good to have a go-to guy available when the problem is beyond your abilities. Your stealership doesn't sound like the sort of place I'd want to deal with.

[Folken]

Hey guys,
I have cleaned the throttle body myself using the suggestions.
lots of 'crap' in there.
It has made a 'step' change in that now the revs go to about 1100 and then die to about 800-900 when warm ( before it was only going to 900-900 even on a cold morning and then diying sometimes).
So it is better BUT... what should the revs be on a cold start?? I have a feeling it should still be better ie. higher maybe closer to 1500 but I have not seen any stats.............

thanks Folken

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by Folken

Hey guys,
I have cleaned the throttle body myself using the suggestions.
lots of 'crap' in there.
It has made a 'step' change in that now the revs go to about 1100 and then die to about 800-900 when warm ( before it was only going to 900-900 even on a cold morning and then diying sometimes).
So it is better BUT... what should the revs be on a cold start?? I have a feeling it should still be better ie. higher maybe closer to 1500 but I have not seen any stats.............

thanks Folken

From my earlier post:

"My guess would be a dirty/carboned up idle air control valve. That was my problem with my 5SFE. Cleaning the idle air control valve solved my issue and now the car revs to around 1300-1500 on initial cold start and then immediately drops to 1200. From there it will drop slowly to 800 as it warms up."

You may need to do a more thorough cleaning of your idle air control valve.

Mike

[Folken]

Originally Posted by Mike Gerber

From my earlier post:

"My guess would be a dirty/carboned up idle air control valve. That was my problem with my 5SFE. Cleaning the idle air control valve solved my issue and now the car revs to around 1300-1500 on initial cold start and then immediately drops to 1200. From there it will drop slowly to 800 as it warms up."

You may need to do a more thorough cleaning of your idle air control valve.

Mike

Sorry I missed that...........I will get some more work on it on the weekend.........Thanks Folken

[Folken]

Originally Posted by Folken

Sorry I missed that...........I will get some more work on it on the weekend.........Thanks Folken

Ok I cleaned the throttle and IAC- by spraying, toothbrush etc.' as suggested in posts- but it seems to be about the same. ie. not a real good cold start.

I noticed something wierd though- when cold the upper hose is all crunched up- like it's under vacumn or something??
Does this mean I just need a new upper hose or does it point to some other problem?

Thanks Folken