3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Hi, I'm new here and I hate for my first post to be asking for help but I really need it!
Recently my 99 Camry, when warm, it'll have a hard time starting. When I do get it started, it idles really high around 2500 - 3000 rpm's and refuses to go down. When I put it into Drive or Reverse, most of the time it will drop rpm's and stall right away. Sometimes it'll sputter and I can get it driving. After I get it driving it'll run fine.
Even more recently it will stall sometimes when I stop at a light or stop sign. Not all of the time, but a lot of the time.
I took it to Autozone because it finally thew a code, and this is what the paper says
TROUBLESHOOTING P1133
OEM BRAND: TOYOTA
Air/Fuel ratio circuit sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
Has this happened to anyone else before? Any idea of where to start.
I bought the car in PA and had it for 3 months, it ran wonderful. We also changed the spark plugs (denso) and the air filter before I drove down to Florida. It ran great the whole trip, just recently started this about a week ago. Please help!!!
Sounds like your coolant sensor is reading "cold" all of the time. Either that or the Idle Air Control is stuck open, but I'm pretty sure that would throw a P0505 code on the '99. For a quick diagnostic, yank the connector on the coolant sensor once the engine is warmed up -- this will cause the engine to default to "warmed up" (it will also cause it to throw a P0115 code, but don't worry about it for now). If the sensor is the problem, things should settle right down...otherwise it's time to look at the IAC being duff. Assuming this is a 4-banger (5S-FE), the coolant sensor is just past where the upper coolant hose from the radiator enters the engine -- it's a connector (usually green) with two wires going into it...just in front of the ignition coils.
For now, I'm assuming the P1333 is a side-effect of the F/A mix being totally bizarre due to the coolant sensor reading, as I don't know of a F/A sensor failure mode that can cause a high idle by itself. We'll cross that bridge when we get there.
As far as the oxygen sensor goes, it may have gone bad and you may need to replace it. However, I'm not sure if the coolant temperature sensors is bad it will set this code. So check the temperature sensor as well. Should be about 20Kohms when cold and about 200 ohms when hot (??).
Quote:
Originally Posted by CodyErb
Hi, I'm new here and I hate for my first post to be asking for help but I really need it!
Recently my 99 Camry, when warm, it'll have a hard time starting. When I do get it started, it idles really high around 2500 - 3000 rpm's and refuses to go down. When I put it into Drive or Reverse, most of the time it will drop rpm's and stall right away. Sometimes it'll sputter and I can get it driving. After I get it driving it'll run fine.
Even more recently it will stall sometimes when I stop at a light or stop sign. Not all of the time, but a lot of the time.
I took it to Autozone because it finally thew a code, and this is what the paper says
TROUBLESHOOTING P1133
OEM BRAND: TOYOTA
Air/Fuel ratio circuit sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
Has this happened to anyone else before? Any idea of where to start.
I bought the car in PA and had it for 3 months, it ran wonderful. We also changed the spark plugs (denso) and the air filter before I drove down to Florida. It ran great the whole trip, just recently started this about a week ago. Please help!!!
Thanks for all the ideas! I haven't had a chance to get out there and try anything just yet, but after doing some research on the internet some more, I've found some more information that might lead to the problem.
My car is a 1999 Toyota Camry 5S-FE California emissions car.
I also found a Toyota Technical Service Bulletin from October 1, 1999
Here is the introduction:
Under certain driving condition, some 5S-FE equipped 1997-1999 Camry and 1999 Solara California emission specification vehicles may exhibit a M.I.L. "ON" DTC P1133 (The code that came up.) An improved Air Fuel Ratio Sensor has been developed to correct this problem.
Is anyone familiar with this? I found a few part numbers also, I believe that if you have the sensor part number 89467-33010 you are you replace it with 89467-33011.
Thanks for all the ideas! I haven't had a chance to get out there and try anything just yet, but after doing some research on the internet some more, I've found some more information that might lead to the problem.
My car is a 1999 Toyota Camry 5S-FE California emissions car.
I also found a Toyota Technical Service Bulletin from October 1, 1999
Here is the introduction:
Under certain driving condition, some 5S-FE equipped 1997-1999 Camry and 1999 Solara California emission specification vehicles may exhibit a M.I.L. "ON" DTC P1133 (The code that came up.) An improved Air Fuel Ratio Sensor has been developed to correct this problem.
Is anyone familiar with this? I found a few part numbers also, I believe that if you have the sensor part number 89467-33010 you are you replace it with 89467-33011.
Any info on this would be greatly appreciated!
F/A sensors are spendy beasts. Unless you've got money to burn, you need to fix that high idle before you start shotgunning the F/A sensor. If you think the F/A sensor is the cause of the idle problem (unlikely, IMHO), just unplug it and see if the idle issue goes away.
Ok, well I don't have much money to just blow! Can someone please show me or tell me where the connector on the coolant sensor and the air/fuel sensor connectors are?
I'm sorry, I don't know a whole ton about cars. Especially not engines.
I can try those now and see if that changes anything. Thanks again.
Ok, well I don't have much money to just blow! Can someone please show me or tell me where the connector on the coolant sensor and the air/fuel sensor connectors are?
I'm sorry, I don't know a whole ton about cars. Especially not engines.
I can try those now and see if that changes anything. Thanks again.
Sorry about the quality of the photo, but this should give you a general idea. The coolant sensor should have two wires coming out of the connector...if it just has one, then I'm pointing at the gauge sensor, and the coolant sensor is the one just to the right.
I'm pointing at the F/A sensor...just follow the wire to the other end to find the connector.
As I mentioned on another "stalling" post the "front" Fuel Air sensors on BOTH my 98 and 99 California I4s failed at about 120 k intervals and produced a stall and buck problem after a short cool off and restart.
Bosch, which sells a rebadged DENSO even admits to that amount of service life. Rock Auto has the front sensor from DENSO and as mentioned, they are NOT cheap but if there are over 100K miles on the one in your car, think about changing it. The rear, on the other hand, seems to last for ever. BTW NO CODE for either problem. Went to the dealer the first time (wife's car) no codes baffled the droids, and they really poured on the "we can't find nuttin'" charges. Fixed it myself and later did MY car when IT developed the same problem. Didn't take me long the second time.
Well, with further inspection it seems my fuel/air sensor was already replaced ..it's almost brand new looking and it has the correct part number ..so I'm not going to buy that just yet as it is expensive.
Thank you very much for the picture ..I'm going to go out tomorrow and really start trying to find the problem.
Thanks!
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