EGR Valve Replacement, DIY.

[haux]

Replaced EGR Valve, EGR Valve Pipe, and both gaskets today.

I was pretty paranoid about the low clearance under the front of the car, so I used everything in my dad's garage to jack the car up and keep myself safe.

Two jack stands. A 2.5 ton hydraulic jack, and the jack from my trunk. I made sure all four pieces were supporting the vehicle by lowering the two jacks onto a stands a little bit after placing the stands under the car.




Wheel chocks in the rear.




Nut #1 is located in the same position as Nut #2 on the other side of the EGR Valve. A 12mm socket is needed to remove these. Nut #1 may require a longer socket, or a very short extension to remove.




This is the view from directly under the car. The end of the pipe has a 24mm compression nut on it. Use a wrench to remove it. The process may be slow, as there is very little room to move the wrench around. After it's loosened up a bit, you can use your hand to turn it the rest of the way.




There wasn't nearly as much carbon build-up in the valve as I had expected. Another user posted a picture of his, filled with black gunk.

I decided to replace the metal pipe as well. This isn't really necessary, as it could be cleaned and reused. Nevertheless, because I was replacing it, the large compression nut needed to be removed. There is a compression ring (a.k.a. "ferrule" or "olive") at the very bottom of the pipe. This ring can be removed with a pare of pliers, pulling it off in a twisting motion. Be sure to do this carefully, so the ring is not deformed or damaged.






New EGR Valve and gaskets. Put the compression nut back onto the pipe, and re-place the compression ring onto the new pipe in the same position as it was on the old pipe.



Re-attach pipe to the valve with the new metal gasket, using the same or new bolts.

Replace the valve in the reverse order of it's removal.


NOTES:
The two bolts holding the valve and pipe together were extremely rusted. One of them actually broke in the process. A can of PB Blaster will help in their removal. Luckily, I had some bolts and washers that fit the threading/length. I don't know the number, but they are the same threading as the bolts used to attach the radiator fans to the top of the radiator.

The old gasket for the back of the EGR Valve will be stuck to the intake manifold. A very thin flathead screwdriver or knife can be used to break that off. It will probably come off in pieces. I used some lacquer thinner on a rag to clean that surface before putting the new gasket on.

Looking back, I should have ordered the bolts, two nuts, and compression nut/ring in advance, and just replaced everything.

Also, screwing the compression nut back on... some grease on the threading would have helped that go on much smoother and more quickly.

Lastly, wear gloves. I didn't. The crap that will get onto your hands will be difficult to wash off. And I sustained a couple minor cuts.

[JohnGD]

So did you find out what was wrong with the old EGR valve? The lower pipe fitting looks like a compression fitting.

[haux]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

So did you find out what was wrong with the old EGR valve? The lower pipe fitting looks like a compression fitting.

I honestly don't know if there was anything wrong with it. =\
Most people say it doesn't even need to be replaced and cleaning it is sufficient... that most of the time it's the VSV causing the CEL code(s) to come up.
I know there are ways to test these things and I know where to find the info. I just decided to take the money route. I think I will clean the old one, test it, and if it checks out... maybe try to sell it.

Next step will be to replace the VSV and EGR Modulator. Then unless I'm missing something else... that whole system should be running like new.

I'm absolutely terrible when it comes to terminology... for just about anything. Do you mean the nut itself or the round ring at the end? I tried to find out what the nut was called... but it almost looks like compression nuts and flare nuts are just about the same thing? And I thought I've seen it referred to as a flare nut before. Toyodiy.com lists it as "Union" for EGR Pipe.

[ty**20]

Originally Posted by haux

Replaced EGR Valve, EGR Valve Pipe, and both gaskets today.


This is the view from directly under the car. The end of the pipe has a 24mm flare nut on it. Use a wrench to remove it. The process may be slow, as there is very little room to move the wrench around. After it's loosened up a bit, you can use your hand to turn it the rest of the way.

Lastly, wear gloves. I didn't. The crap that will get onto your hands will be difficult to wash off. And I sustained a couple minor cuts.

how long did the process took you to do the whole changing..??..new EGR look sweet..

[fenixus]

nice DIY!

Did you have any CELs before EGR valve job? what i mean is why you started doing it and what the beneft would be from replacing it. i 've never even cleaned mine yet (no CELs).

heh, i'm a bit paranoid myself when working on my back under car supported not that high (2t floor jack 15-5/8'' max height) on stands and jacks - sort of claustrophobic feeling brrr heheh, need to get used to it i guess

[hill8570]

Nice writeup! Needs to be added to the list of DIY threads -- I like this write-up a lot better than the EGR thread that's currently posted there.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by haux

There is a ring at the very bottom of the pipe preventing the nut from falling off. This ring can be removed with a pare of pliers, pulling it off in a twisting motion.

Looking back, I should have ordered and flare nut in advance, and just replace everything.

Also, screwing the flare nut back on...

The pipe is actually held on and sealed with a compression fitting, not a flare fitting. The "ring" is called a ferrule and needs to be replaced when replacing the pipe. I don't see a new ferrule in the picture, did you use one? If not the pipe will leak.

[Mr.Nutcase]

apply vacuum to it. during idle...... if car does not stall, EGR is bad....,

[JCamry94]

Originally Posted by fenixus

nice DIY!

Did you have any CELs before EGR valve job? what i mean is why you started doing it and what the beneft would be from replacing it. i 've never even cleaned mine yet (no CELs).

+2 any codes prior to replacement? I think I got code 70, I haven't even given it a looksy

[zppeacock]

most that I see come into shop have a bad vacuum modulator.

[haux]

Originally Posted by ty**20

how long did the process took you to do the whole changing..??..new EGR look sweet..

I started at about 3:45pm. Took my time making sure the car was secure, and taking the photos of course. When I was finished, it was already dark... close to 6:00pm. I'd say the hardest part was screwing that nut back on. One slow turn at a time... and often had difficulty getting the wrench back onto the nut to turn it again, due to the lack of space under there. This can be knocked out fairly easily in under an hour I'm sure, if you're in a hurry.

Originally Posted by fenixus

nice DIY!

Did you have any CELs before EGR valve job? what i mean is why you started doing it and what the beneft would be from replacing it. i 've never even cleaned mine yet (no CELs).

heh, i'm a bit paranoid myself when working on my back under car supported not that high (2t floor jack 15-5/8'' max height) on stands and jacks - sort of claustrophobic feeling brrr heheh, need to get used to it i guess

P0401, P0440, P0441. Rather than trying to pinpoint the exact cause of the problem, I decided to take the money route and replace the EGR Valve and related hoses, EGR Modulator, and the EGR VSV. Since I replaced that pipe too... I'd say roughly $270 in OE parts. The VSV has not been replaced yet, but I finally received the Modulator today and it took a couple of minutes to replace that.

I got used to the tight space under the car after a few minutes.

Originally Posted by hill8570

Nice writeup! Needs to be added to the list of DIY threads -- I like this write-up a lot better than the EGR thread that's currently posted there.

Yeah, I knew there was already one there, I just thought I could do a little better with the photos... might help someone out down the line. Same thing I did with the Charcoal Canister VSV DIY.

Originally Posted by Stillrunning

The pipe is actually held on and sealed with a compression fitting, not a flare fitting. The "ring" is called a ferrule and needs to be replaced when replacing the pipe. I don't see a new ferrule in the picture, did you use one? If not the pipe will leak.

I did not photograph the "ferrule" on the new pipe. In the instructions however, I described how to remove it, although I do not think I mentioned putting it onto the new pipe. Nevertheless, I reused it. I will fix that and the terminology in the instructions.

[JohnGD]

Or a plugged up port in the throttle body can cause it too. Use a thin wire to clean the ports from the modulator and make sure they're not carboned up inside blocking off your vacuum signals.

Yes, the lower pipe union is a compression type. For lower pressure it's fine. The higher pressure brake lines are double flares.

Originally Posted by haux

I honestly don't know if there was anything wrong with it. =
Most people say it doesn't even need to be replaced and cleaning it is sufficient... that most of the time it's the VSV causing the CEL code(s) to come up.
I know there are ways to test these things and I know where to find the info. I just decided to take the money route. I think I will clean the old one, test it, and if it checks out... maybe try to sell it.

Next step will be to replace the VSV and EGR Modulator. Then unless I'm missing something else... that whole system should be running like new.

I'm absolutely terrible when it comes to terminology... for just about anything. Do you mean the nut itself or the round ring at the end? I tried to find out what the nut was called... but it almost looks like compression nuts and flare nuts are just about the same thing? And I thought I've seen it referred to as a flare nut before. Toyodiy.com lists it as "Union" for EGR Pipe.

[Oldcar95]

I just replaced on my 2000 Camry the EGR VSV. It is tight behind the engine as the VSV is in front of one of the engine mounts. If you are under the car, looking up at the VSV remember or mark were the vacuum hoses go to. Push on the tab on the connector then pull on the connector to release from the VSV. The nut is a 12mm. You can use a 1/4" drive socket (3/8" with deep socket also will work) to reach it. You might have a little problem breaking it free to start but after than it's OK. If you like, remove the right front wheel. Look at back of the engine, you can see the VSV. You can reach in and try to remove it for here. Use 3/8" drive, 12mm with a universal (or 12mm universal socket) with 23 inches of extentions. Once the old one is removed, connect the vacuum lines to the new one, install the connector and mount the VSV. It's a little tight to hold the VSV and install the bolt, be patient and it will take a little time to get the feel of it. I used both methods to remove/install my VSV. Hope this helps!

[haux]

Can the VSV be reached from underneath the car? Last time I attempted to replace it, I don't remember seeing much room to reach it from there.

[Oldcar95]

Yes, it can be reached from under the car. You will need to reach round the mount a little to reach it. Just take your time to figure out how to reach your hands/arms and socket wrench in there. It's not that bad of a job to do. Some people have trouble with have the room to reach in. Might have more room to move around if the car was on car ramps. Also make sure your engine is cooled off. Let me know how you made out.