3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I'm new to this forum so please excuse any stupid questions.
I'm helping my father-in-law with his 95 Camry LE 2.2. It starts and runs fine for 10 -15 minutes, then shuts off. At this point, it will crank but not fire/start. If it cools down, it will start back up until it gets warm again...then off.
We were told it might be the igniter so we pulled it and my FIL took it to a shop and had it tested. They said it was OK. Of course it MIGHT be OK when it is cool.
I was able to get the check engine light codes... 12 & 14. I haven't been able to find a lot on the check engine light codes.
Does anybody have any idea what could be going on? Proactively put in a new cap and rotor, but that didn't help this prob. I'd like to get a code reader but don't know if this car uses OBD I or II. I'd drive it to a shop, but I don't think it would run until I got it there.
ANY help you can offer would be appreciated...my mother-in-law is going nuts with just 1 car between them!
The 95 5F-SE 4-banger is OBD-I, so don't waste your time with the code reader -- you've already read the codes via the blinkin' light.
www.camrystuff.com , Generation 3 , 5S-FE section, page 339 (for DTC 12) and page 344 (for DTC 14) are the troubleshooting guides for those two DTCs.
Looking at DTC 14, it's almost certainly a bad ignitor (very off chance it's a wiring or ECM problem, but odds are seriously against it, especially given how ignitors in the 5S-FE have a history of crapping out when hot). Since the problem only happens under heat stress, unless the shop that tested it hit it with a heat gun during testing, they never would've seen the problem. I have a feeling the DTC 12 is a side-effect of the DTC 14.
I'd change out the ignitor and clear the codes. Dollars to donuts the new ignitor will fix the problem.
Also check the coil with a digital volt/ohmeter and the specs from any manual. It's one of the things that can become weaker as it heats up, and these things have been known problem areas on the first 3 generations of Camrys as they accumulate a lot of miles/years on them.
OK...I know I'm gonna sound like a dumb-ass here...but where exactly IS the coil? The parts manual SHOWS it, but doesn't show where it is. Is it INSIDE of the distributor? Is it easy to get to/replace??
the symptom sound very likely Engine Coolant Temperature sensor malfunction (ECT-sensor) and floods ur engine once warmed up, and it may never give any check engine code.
though it could be your EGR valve, IAC and other problem.
something else to possibly consider is the fuel pump. when i had them fail, this is what happened. the only worked when cool, would shut off after about 10 minutes of running, then would only work again after sitting for about 15 minutes. just some food for thought.
OK...I know I'm gonna sound like a dumb-ass here...but where exactly IS the coil? The parts manual SHOWS it, but doesn't show where it is. Is it INSIDE of the distributor? Is it easy to get to/replace??
This is for the 95 2.2 Camry.
Yes, it's inside the distributor. Not too hard to check/replace.
I agree with bronzemaxell about cooling temp. sensor. get cooling temp. sensor replace,and it's not expensive.
Interesting. The car recently overheated due to a lack of coolant that leaked out of a crack in the radiator and through the seal on the bypass tube. They had it refilled and the car ran OK for awhile. Now this. Possible that it got damaged...
It still had the original radiator cap so I'm guessing that it failed and the system overpressurized. New cap installed and new radiator coming in spring. My FIL dumped some Bars Leaks in it already.
Is there any easy way to check if it's bad? Is this a variable resistance device or a simple open/close switch? If I can jury-rig it enough to restart the hot car, that would be enough to know whether this is the culprit...
Last edited by gratefulrog; 11-27-2009 at 10:26 AM.
Revelation (I think). I pulled the coil and the body on it has a crack. As a matter of fact, the plastic coating that covers the electronics has a big crack running all the way across it.
New coil on the way...
Last edited by gratefulrog; 11-27-2009 at 06:54 PM.
I just had recent problem on same car was the ECT sensor, got an old one from pick-a-part n car hasn't stalled since. My car also was giving problems once warmed up, so i'd check the cooling system - replace the thermostat and drain/clean replace with new coolant.
I just had recent problem on same car was the ECT sensor, got an old one from pick-a-part n car hasn't stalled since. My car also was giving problems once warmed up, so i'd check the cooling system - replace the thermostat and drain/clean replace with new coolant.
I found that the car starts and runs (albeit, roughly) with the ECT unplugged. When it died last, I unplugged it again and nothing. Smooth cranking, no sputter or attempt to fire. I'm assuming that if this were the problem, it would at least start back up disconnected.
This car sits in a cold garage...it starts fine when cold and dies after 10 - 15 minutes of idling. After that, cranking but not even an ATTEMPT to fire. As I said...the coil is the only thing I've checked that is physically broken so I'm continuing here. Even if this is not the problem , it's gonna need to be replaced.
I found that the car starts and runs (albeit, roughly) with the ECT unplugged. When it died last, I unplugged it again and nothing. Smooth cranking, no sputter or attempt to fire. I'm assuming that if this were the problem, it would at least start back up disconnected.
This car sits in a cold garage...it starts fine when cold and dies after 10 - 15 minutes of idling. After that, cranking but not even an ATTEMPT to fire. As I said...the coil is the only thing I've checked that is physically broken so I'm continuing here. Even if this is not the problem , it's gonna need to be replaced.
hmm, i guess you still do not understand the functionality of the ECT-sensor, and its resistant value in relation to engine temperature and fuel.
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