3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I've got a 2000 Camry LE 6cyl automatic with 210,000 miles on it and I was finishing up on changing my water pump and timing belt, and as I was putting on the power steering belt I noticed that the rear motor mount was staring me in the face.
I had bought the set of 4 mounts, and replaced the front, the tranny, and the dog bone, but never got around to the rear one because it looked really hard to get to. Since I had everything apart I figured it would be a good time to finally do it.
I looked in Haynes and it wasn't all that detailed, and searched here on TN but couldn't find anything that applies to my year and model. So I just charged ahead on my own. First I removed the Dog Bone from the top of the engine, then I removed the 4 nuts that held the bracket to the frame, and then put a block under the oil pan and jacked up the engine to try to get the cradle out that was held by the 4 bolts to the frame. There's one large bolt that goes through the rear motor mount and I removed that. The bracket looked like it would come out, but I had to jack up the engine some more, then more, and finally after lots of wiggling I got the bracket out. Now I'm staring at the motor mount held in this large casting. It looks pressed in the large casting, and I yank on it, and it's stuck pretty good. I couldn't figure out any way to get the damn rubber mount out, so I put the PS, and AC belts back on and finished up on the timing belt water pump.
Later I went to the dealer and asked them about the rear motor mount. They brought out this giant thing that bolts to the rear of the engine, has the motor mount pressed in and it looks like I have to remove some sort of bearing assembly within the large casting held in place by a large snap ring at the one end of the casting.
I'm guessing that the entire back of the engine has to be disassembled and I would need some help from someone that has done it, because it looks like a real bear of a project. If I could get the casting out then I could press out the old bushing and press in the new one.
But I see no easy way to get the whole assembly out from under the valve cover and exhaust manifold and somehow snake it out through the fender well. Who at Toyota thought this was a good design? I'd like to give him a piece of my mind, that's for sure.
Anyway, if someone has done it, I'd appreciate some advise.
the rear engine mount has a carrier for the rear sub axle.
so to fully remove it you have to unblot it like you did and remove the drive shaft, at this point you can remove it completely from the car, you can remove the carrier bearing and wack the mount out with a mallet or something.
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^ and leaving it that way!
one question about those mounts after i saw this thread and went to look at my mounts. how can you tell if 2 front engine mounts are bad or need to replace.
You look for cracks in the rubber. However, that's hard to do.
Another is to remove the mount for inspection. Nobody does that (you just put a new one back in, not the old one).
Or the simplest, do you feel vibration at idle?
Quote:
Originally Posted by aoe_mp
one question about those mounts after i saw this thread and went to look at my mounts. how can you tell if 2 front engine mounts are bad or need to replace.
one question about those mounts after i saw this thread and went to look at my mounts. how can you tell if 2 front engine mounts are bad or need to replace.
There are really 5 mounts total. The big one in the front of the engine by the radiator connected to the frame. There is a shock absorber type one to the right of it. (This one rarely needs changing). The Dog Bone is the one by the passenger shock strut tower, connected to the left side of the engine by the timing belt cover. The rear transmission mount, and then one at the rear of the engine, right in line with the front one, but at the back of the engine.
If the front one goes, then it puts excessive pressure on the Dog Bone. The rubber in the Dog Bone is attached in two places. The top/bottom, vertical position . You should be able to slip something thin in between the rubber and the steel housing at the front/back horizontal positions. The rubber in the Dog Bone should be centered within the steel housing when the car is parked. If it is lopsided, or you can see cracks then it needs to be replaced.
If the Dog Bone is torn up then it puts excessive pressure on the front and rear ones. And then the front one goes, then the rear one.
You can buy the mounts in sets of 4 off eBay, or one at a time. AutoZone and Kragen have them as well. The shock absorber one is a dealer item, $150.00. The Dog Bone one is the easiest to change. Just two bolts. The big one at the front one takes a bit of fiddling to get out. I had to move the exhaust pipe around a bit. The transmission one isn't too hard, just remove the drivers side wheel, and there it is. Jack up the engine under the oil pan, and it comes right out. If I remember right there is an access panel with a couple of bolts to remove it.
The rear one, however is a real PITA. I'd recommend selling the car if you have to change that one.....just kidding. I never did figure out a way to get mine out, so my original one is still in there.
one question about those mounts after i saw this thread and went to look at my mounts. how can you tell if 2 front engine mounts are bad or need to replace.
Brake torque it with the hood up and look for excessive movement.
Another is to remove the mount for inspection. Nobody does that (you just put a new one back in, not the old one).
I did and saved myself the price of a new one. With a little patience and the pry bar method of removing the top nut it wasn't too bad at all. I removed both the front and rear in a morning and found both to be in good shape. I can't believe how much some guys replace perfectly good parts because they just assume and don't inspect/test.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
I did and saved myself the price of a new one. With a little patience and the pry bar method of removing the top nut it wasn't too bad at all. I removed both the front and rear in a morning and found both to be in good shape. I can't believe how much some guys replace perfectly good parts because they just assume and don't inspect/test.
did you use anything to hold the engine before you were removing the top nut and taking both front mounts out?
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