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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-21-2009, 06:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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is it my imagination? brake question

ok so i finally got my front brakes serviced , getting new regular no frills PRO STOP rotors from pepboys, and the prostop platinum ceramic pads from pepboys. (also was able to get the rear pads for 4.90 raybestos ceramics. something about discontiuned or pep boys wont e selling them aymore.)

now i have never had ceramic pads on my own car before, but it seems it takes a lil more brake pedal pressure to stop in same amount of time, than it did with the semi metallics. Is this normal?

I am not sure if i just didnt need pads, ( more than likely i did because i needed rotors for sure lol) or i am just imagining this.

I also read a recent post about changing brake lines to stainless steel, About how much would a shop charge to do that, if i bring my own ss brake lines?
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Old 11-21-2009, 08:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Gotta break em in.Go form 60 to 10 as hard as you can without hitting ABS a few times in a row, then don't use em for the next 10 minutes(cool down), repeat as necessary.

Last edited by Kenny_McCormic; 11-21-2009 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 11-21-2009, 09:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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or try e.g. Hawk HPS pads burnishing instructions, here:

Quote:
Burnishing Instructions

1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/burnish.php
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'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

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Old 11-22-2009, 02:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Maybe something is binding? Because no frills rotors should work fine on these cars. I prefer the Raybestos Red Label Service Grade that's about $17+shipping. Not too bad really. Of course Brembo is a better rotor but also like $50-60 on Amazon. That too is a pretty good deal for Brembo however.

Ceramic pads are pretty much the standard these days as originals. The Raybestos semi-metallic is a softer 20-25K mile compound. Brakes well and resists fading. However, their ceramic (also lasts about 20-25K miles) are very good too.

I like Akebono ProAct for its longer service life (50-90K miles). However, I'd interested in trying out the Hawk pads too.


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ok so i finally got my front brakes serviced , getting new regular no frills PRO STOP rotors from pepboys, and the prostop platinum ceramic pads from pepboys. (also was able to get the rear pads for 4.90 raybestos ceramics. something about discontiuned or pep boys wont e selling them aymore.)

now i have never had ceramic pads on my own car before, but it seems it takes a lil more brake pedal pressure to stop in same amount of time, than it did with the semi metallics. Is this normal?

I am not sure if i just didnt need pads, ( more than likely i did because i needed rotors for sure lol) or i am just imagining this.

I also read a recent post about changing brake lines to stainless steel, About how much would a shop charge to do that, if i bring my own ss brake lines?
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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hey JohnGD,

some time ago you asked me about dusting of my front Hawk HPS pads. today I was inspecting front brakes and noticed front wheels on both sides covered in dust. that is after 2k miles. nothing serious, a quick car wash once a while makes it normal.
i remember however my former front pads (Wagner Thermo Quiet) were same dusty as those Hawks. really maybe Hawks are dusting more or maybe not hard to tell, probably it's nothing and anyways my car can use a car wash more often

and to answer OP original question ... I noticed harder more responsive brake pedal after change of pads each time. brake flushing with fresh fluid makes it even more stiffer and better reacting. i also went further and finally adjusted my rear drums with screwdriver on a star wheel (or whatever it's called).

it took some forward and reverse braking until it all settled up, but now brakes are quite amazing. I wish i had replaced my rotors back then when switching pads. not that my old one are bad, they are almost flat with minor grooves. just realized that probably Hawks will last very long, wear is minimal, so it's possible rotors will be first to go in future.
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'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU

Last edited by fenixus; 11-22-2009 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If the Hawk HPS is dusting about the same as the Wagner ceramics then it's not bad at all. The older carbon metallic bads were really bad. It's almost like two stops and you have black wheels!

Maybe the HPS is strong enough that with light application you can stop on a dime.



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hey JohnGD,

some time ago you asked me about dusting of my front Hawk HPS pads. today I was inspecting front brakes and noticed front wheels on both sides covered in dust. that is after 2k miles. nothing serious, a quick car wash once a while makes it normal.
i remember however my former front pads (Wagner Thermo Quiet) were same dusty as those Hawks. really maybe Hawks are dusting more or maybe not hard to tell, probably it's nothing and anyways my car can use a car wash more often
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Besides getting rid of the air bubbles that can form with brake fluid's deterioration or moisture boiling, new fluid also helps prevent corrosion, especially if you have an ABS unit in there.

Castrol GT LMA (Low Moisture Activity) or Valvoline Synthetic (it's also LMA) are great fluids!


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Originally Posted by fenixus View Post
and to answer OP original question ... I noticed harder more responsive brake pedal after change of pads each time. brake flushing with fresh fluid makes it even more stiffer and better reacting. i also went further and finally adjusted my rear drums with screwdriver on a star wheel (or whatever it's called).

it took some forward and reverse braking until it all settled up, but now brakes are quite amazing. I wish i had replaced my rotors back then when switching pads. not that my old one are bad, they are almost flat with minor grooves. just realized that probably Hawks will last very long, wear is minimal, so it's possible rotors will be first to go in future.

Last edited by JohnGD; 11-22-2009 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ok, thanks for the suggestions. Also about how much do youthink i shop would charge to change out the brake lines, if i bring my own lines?
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