Differential Seal

[haux]

We were finally able to remove the driver's side halfshaft today. It was recommended that I buy differential seals to replace the old ones. So I did, a few weeks ago. Obviously I had no idea what they were supposed to look like, so I trusted the Advance Auto Parts guy gave me the right ones.

These don't look like the right ones to me. The left one is the seal we removed. The right one is the Moog seal I got at Advance. There's no way that thing would go in there. Am I missing something, or is that definitely not the right seal for my car?

[JohnGD]

Ouch, did they give you a cam/crank oil seal? There's nothing on the Advance Auto site under Differential/Parts, Drive Shaft/Parts, Gaskets, Transmission Parts, or Transmission Gaskets. Do you have the Moog part number?

"Showing 0 products for your “2000 Toyota Camry” " was what I got for all above categories from the Advance web site.

Bring the old parts to the dealer is probably the best bet.

Originally Posted by haux

We were finally able to remove the driver's side halfshaft today. It was recommended that I buy differential seals to replace the old ones. So I did, a few weeks ago. Obviously I had no idea what they were supposed to look like, so I trusted the Advance Auto Parts guy gave me the right ones.

These don't look like the right ones to me. The left one is the seal we removed. The right one is the Moog seal I got at Advance. There's no way that thing would go in there. Am I missing something, or is that definitely not the right seal for my car?

[stbradle]

This should be your differential seal from Rock auto.com:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118015

and more info...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=2344

[JohnGD]

Timken has one for $3.96 #223540 that's the same number as the National seal. Generic picture only. Shaft Size=1.378" Housing Bore=2.165" Outer Diameter=2.183" Width=0.315"

Here are some pictures from the Beck Arnley catalog that's more like it.

http://www.beckcatalog.com/app/image...00523527-1.jpg

http://www.beckcatalog.com/app/image...00523615-1.jpg

[haux]

Don't have the part number with me. But yeah, it's definitely for something else. I'm not even sure I wanna mess with removing the left shaft again to replace the seal NOW. But I'll head down to the dealer and order them... maybe they'll come in within two days like usual, and I could at least put a new seal in for the right side. Otherwise, I'll just re-use the old one. The one I already re-used didn't look to be in bad shape anyway. No cracking.

[mazdaverx7]

they are often called output shaft seals. get the correct seals and ensure the job is done correctly. i got mine from the dealer in 05 and have not had any issues.

[JohnGD]

Bummer. I guess going to the dealer has its advantages.

Originally Posted by haux

But I'll head down to the dealer and order them... maybe they'll come in within two days like usual, and I could at least put a new seal in for the right side. Otherwise, I'll just re-use the old one. The one I already re-used didn't look to be in bad shape anyway. No cracking.

[haux]

The part numbers for the Moog seals were 223540.

The dealer had the correct differential seals in stock. Original price was $11.xx, got him to drop it down to $8.xx. Good price.

Still not sure if I'm gonna bother replacing the left side seal that I re-used, but now I'll definitely replace the right seal, and I still have an extra for just in case.

And yes, going to the dealer definitely has its benefits, for when you can't wait 4+ days for shipping to receive something.

[JohnGD]

Ok, that's the input shaft seal. No wonder. This is one problem getting aftermarket parts.

Given that you travel a lot of distance, I'd be inclined to replace it. It'd be easier than doing it on the road. Besides, the right is coming off, right?

The axle nuts should be torqued to spec with the wheels off the ground.

Originally Posted by haux

Still not sure if I'm gonna bother replacing the left side seal that I re-used, but now I'll definitely replace the right seal, and I still have an extra for just in case.

And yes, going to the dealer definitely has its benefits, for when you can't wait 4+ days for shipping to receive something.

[haux]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Ok, that's the input shaft seal. No wonder. This is one problem getting aftermarket parts.

Given that you travel a lot of distance, I'd be inclined to replace it. It'd be easier than doing it on the road. Besides, the right is coming off, right?

The axle nuts should be torqued to spec with the wheels off the ground.

If the ones I needed to replace are "output" shaft seals, where the hell do input shaft seals go? Are those elsewhere INSIDE the transmission/differential?

The right shaft is what's left to replace, yes. We've already replaced the left one. And since we still have yet to do the suspension work, as long as the left shaft comes out of the differential easily (unlike the first time), I think we will probably replace that seal.

I've been sorta wondering about the whole "torque to spec" thing. On my car, I have *never* torqued anything to spec. I just tighten it as hard as I feel necessary. When it comes to the important things, as hard a possible. Other stuff, not too hard so things don't break. I guess I understand the importance of it when it comes to some things... but as long something is tightened evenly (when multiple bolts are involved) and tight enough, why is it important? I've never had a problem doing it the way I have.

[EEngineer]

maybe the seals on the left got the rubber stuck on it...

if it makes u less frustrated....my diff seal is leaking as well...i'm dripping gear oil so i need to refill it every month or so. =[

[JohnGD]

Input shaft is where the engine engages the transmission at. Some call this seal the "ATF pump seal", because many ATF pumps are placed there. It can also be called "front seal", "converter hub seal", or "front pump seal".

The output shaft in rear drive systems is where the drive shaft is attached to the transmission (via slip yoke, u-joint). So the "output shaft seal" is also called "axle seal", or "rear seal".

In the case of "transaxles" for FWD cars, it can also be called "differential oil seal" as Honda does. Toyota calls it "Seal, Oil (for Transaxle Case)". FWIW.

The Moog seal you got was an input shaft seal, not for the differential. But I should have given you all the other names the differential oil seal can be called, as well as pictures, as I often do.

Originally Posted by haux

If the ones I needed to replace are "output" shaft seals, where the hell do input shaft seals go? Are those elsewhere INSIDE the transmission/differential?

The right shaft is what's left to replace, yes. We've already replaced the left one. And since we still have yet to do the suspension work, as long as the left shaft comes out of the differential easily (unlike the first time), I think we will probably replace that seal.

I've been sorta wondering about the whole "torque to spec" thing. On my car, I have *never* torqued anything to spec. I just tighten it as hard as I feel necessary. When it comes to the important things, as hard a possible. Other stuff, not too hard so things don't break. I guess I understand the importance of it when it comes to some things... but as long something is tightened evenly (when multiple bolts are involved) and tight enough, why is it important? I've never had a problem doing it the way I have.

[JohnGD]

Minor things, like drain bolts I use the typical "calibrated arm" method.

One problem with not torquing to spec, say with crankshaft bolt, it that it can come loose and cause various hard to diagnose problems. Such as those experienced on 3VZFE truck V6s.

Another with a spark plug is that the metal case can stretch and crack the ceramic insulator.

Properly tightening the axle nuts help protect wheel bearings.

Ball joint nuts also stop studs from moving back and forth in the knuckle and break at some point.

Over-tightening can stress and snap the bolts too.

If everything worked for you so far that's great. But for the important things do consider torque wrenches. Even the inexpensive ones at Harbor Freight are better than none for some applications. You may be able to borrow them (don't know what range) using Autozone's free loaner tool program.

For axle related things you need a 250 pounder.

Originally Posted by haux

I've been sorta wondering about the whole "torque to spec" thing. On my car, I have *never* torqued anything to spec. I just tighten it as hard as I feel necessary. When it comes to the important things, as hard a possible. Other stuff, not too hard so things don't break. I guess I understand the importance of it when it comes to some things... but as long something is tightened evenly (when multiple bolts are involved) and tight enough, why is it important? I've never had a problem doing it the way I have.

[haux]

I bought a couple torque wrenches at Harbor Freight a little while ago. 3/4" and 1/2" inch. They are big ones, 1.5 or so feet long. Not sure what their max torque settings are or whatever. Each was under $15. Damn good deals. The quality seems alright as well. I haven't actually used them for "spec" torquing yet, but they get the job done when you gotta remove one of those big pain in the ass nuts or bolts.

Ordered a Haynes Manual that should be coming in any day now. I presume it contains all of the torque specifications I could ever desire?

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by haux

I bought a couple torque wrenches at Harbor Freight a little while ago. Each was under $15. The quality seems alright as well.

Probably no more accurate than the "calibrated arm method".