Cold Start Problems - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

flyerboy · 11-23-2009, 09:58 PM

Hi everyone, haven't been on here for quite some time. I guess since the last time I was having a problem with my Camry, I think about 2 years ago. Anyways, I have a 1994 Camry with a 3.0L 1MZ-FE engine that is having trouble starting when the engine is cold. It will not start unless I step on the gas. If anyone has any ideas as to what the problem could be let me know. Thanks.

***JohnGD*** · 11-23-2009, 11:21 PM

Try cleaning the idle air control (IAC) valve. Check the DIY section too. It may also be a problem with the engine coolant temperature sensor. But check the IAC first.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by flyerboy

Hi everyone, haven't been on here for quite some time. I guess since the last time I was having a problem with my Camry, I think about 2 years ago. Anyways, I have a 1994 Camry with a 3.0L 1MZ-FE engine that is having trouble starting when the engine is cold. It will not start unless I step on the gas. If anyone has any ideas as to what the problem could be let me know. Thanks.

flyerboy · 11-24-2009, 08:32 PM

Thanks, I will check both of those out this weekend.

flyerboy · 11-27-2009, 09:25 PM

I did a check on the coolant temperature sensor tonight. Here is what I found, with the engine cold the ohm reading was 1685 and with the engine at operating temp. the ohm reading was 293. According to the manual I have the readings should be 2200-2700 ohms when cold and 280-350 when at operating temp.

So am I right in assuming this sensor is not functioning properly and needs to be replaced?

I also tried to retrieve the engine codes, if any, but had no luck. I turned the ignition to the on position and put a jumper wire in the diagnostic terminal in TE1 and E1. But the "check engine" light did not flash at all it just stayed on. Is this not the correct way to retrieve the codes?

Any info would be helpful. Thanks.

***JohnGD*** · 11-27-2009, 10:28 PM

There is a range on the chart, and 1685 ohms looks like around 100 degF. Around 68 degF you should be nearer to 4K ohms. At 32 degF it should be around 10K ohms. 22K ohms is like around 0 degF. So I'd re-test before spending $$. If you can safely freeze it (food safety wise), maybe do that and check.

Reading code: so the ignition is at "ON", and the engine is not running, right? The light should flash regularly if no code. Try the procedure again. Check your jumper maybe.

I'd recommend that you register at Autozone and use their free online repair guide.

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyerboy

I did a check on the coolant temperature sensor tonight. Here is what I found, with the engine cold the ohm reading was 1685 and with the engine at operating temp. the ohm reading was 293. According to the manual I have the readings should be 2200-2700 ohms when cold and 280-350 when at operating temp.

So am I right in assuming this sensor is not functioning properly and needs to be replaced?

I also tried to retrieve the engine codes, if any, but had no luck. I turned the ignition to the on position and put a jumper wire in the diagnostic terminal in TE1 and E1. But the "check engine" light did not flash at all it just stayed on. Is this not the correct way to retrieve the codes?

Any info would be helpful. Thanks.

flyerboy · 11-28-2009, 12:21 AM

Well the car was sitting outside in O deg. Celcius which is 32 deg. F for about 4 hours, so I can't see how the temp. of the sensor can read 100 deg. F. I will retest in the morning. As for getting the codes, yes the ignition was on, I checked my jumper several times, repositioned it, still nothing. The check engine light just stays on and does not flash at all.

***JohnGD*** · 11-28-2009, 12:39 AM

Sure, if it still reads like it's 38 degC out there then you'll need a new sensor.

My mistake. Your 1994 V6 (1MZ-FE) should be equipped with OBD-II already. The I4 didn't get that until 1996. You can verify that by looking at the emissions sticker under the hood, at least the US versions have them there.

Here in the US we go to Autozone and have the code read out for free. I'm not sure where you can do that in Canada? You can't do that with a jumper in an OBD-II equipped car.

Mike Gerber · 11-28-2009, 05:48 AM

I would let the car sit out overnight and then recheck the readings on the coolant temperature sensor. 4 hours may not be sufficient time to let the engine cool completely.

Mike

flyerboy · 11-28-2009, 10:29 PM

I did a check again this morning and got basically the same readings as before. I even checked the temperature of the antifreeze and that was 63 deg. F, (car was in the garage).

So I went and purchased a new sensor and put that in and I also thoroughly cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve. Started it up and it ran perfect. Went into high idle, around 1500 rpm and slowly went down to 800 rpm.

Leaving the car outside tonight and I will see how it starts in the morning when it is cold out.

flyerboy · 11-29-2009, 10:13 PM

It started good so I think I solved the problem.

***JohnGD*** · 11-29-2009, 11:17 PM

2K_echo · 12-10-2009, 10:08 PM

Hi. I have a somewhat similar problem with cold starts with my 2000 echo. On initial start-up, and after reversing out the drive, for the first 3-7 seconds after accelerating normally in D there is almost no power/acceleration.

After this brief period, the performance is perfect for the rest of the day - absolutely no issues from then on.

Does anybody have any idea what is the issue? Is it simply just cleaning the throttle body?

Thanks!

(first time here, so let me know if this is the best place for this post)