Check Engine Light P0325 (Knock Sensor) - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-24-2009, 06:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Check Engine Light P0325 (Knock Sensor)

I have a 99 Camry (4 cylinder) with 118K miles. The wife was driving today and the CEL came on. Took it to Autozone & they pulled a code of P0325. It showed a probable cause of a faulty knock sensor. Has anyone replaced one of these and any good advice? It took me a while to locate it & had to jack up the car high and crawl underneath it to reach it. Took a couple of photos for reference. Do these go out now & then? The Toyota dealer wanted $202.46 (Part No. 89615-32030). Just hoping to replace the right part & save a little money. It looks like if I unbolt the long bar to the left I will have a lot more room to work with. Here are the pics, thanks for any comments:

http://s891.photobucket.com/albums/a...sor99Camry.jpg

http://s891.photobucket.com/albums/a...or299Camry.jpg

http://s891.photobucket.com/albums/a...or399Camry.jpg
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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How is the car running? Does it seem sluggish or slow to accellerate? Have you done any wiring modifications? Try the simple fix first, disconnect, clean and reconnect. If the car is running fine then just reset the (cel) check engine light and keep an eye on engine performance.

When you get this code, the ECM will operate in fail-safe mode to protect the engine. You will notice that your vehicle will not accelerate like it used to. The ECU won't throw a knock sensor code for actual knocking. They simply retard ignition timing more and more until the knock goes away, then it starts adding timing back until it's at base timing, or knocking comes back.
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No wiring modifications, anything like that. Just had the car a couple of weeks. Had the timing belt & water pump replaced around a week ago but it has been running fine. I think it was coincidence that it was just coincidence that the light came on. I will try taking it out cleaning, it, etc. It appears that there is just one wire running to it, would that be right?

Thanks for the suggestions!

Dave
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1811 View Post
No wiring modifications, anything like that. Just had the car a couple of weeks. Had the timing belt & water pump replaced around a week ago but it has been running fine. I think it was coincidence that it was just coincidence that the light came on. I will try taking it out cleaning, it, etc. It appears that there is just one wire running to it, would that be right?

Thanks for the suggestions!

Dave
The knock sensor code and the timing belt job are probably related. The sensor is right by that area. Its likely that the wiring might have gotten damaged leading to it. If you go the timing done at a shop I would take it back and complain.

If im right the knock sensor is a little lower then the timing cover and to the right of the crank shaft pulley or so. Really likely a wire got pinched etc.
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Old 11-25-2009, 11:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Does anyone know if the knock sensor wiring goes directly from the sensor to the ECU located behind the glove box? I am assuming it runs through the firewall. And from what I could see, it is not close to the timing cover/water pump area. I guess a wire could have got pinched, I don't know. It has thrown the code when the car has accelerated onto the freeway. I cleared the code tonight by taking off the negative battery cable but it came on around 5 miles later when accelerating onto the highway.

Any more thoughts on this?

Thanks,

Dave
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Old 11-27-2009, 11:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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As someone had said, disconnect the grey plug, clean a little, then re-seat.
It's not cheap to replace.
But its presence is very important to protect the head gasket and the piston.

Engine would stay in open-loop (bad for gas) mode as long as the error code for this is on.

PS: yes, wires go to ECM, together with a bunch of other wires of course.

Last edited by sintox; 11-27-2009 at 11:28 AM.
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