Third Gen DIY:Front Brake Hose Replacement

[DAT RICE]

www.Toyotanation.com and I are not to be held responsible for personal injuries or damage to property.

This DIY is about replacing either of the two front brake hoses for preventative maintenance reasons or if they are damaged already. While doing this, you can also change brake pads out.

List of what you'll need:
8mm wrench ; for Bleeder valve
10mm wrench; for steel line nut screw
12mm wrench or 12mm socket with ratchet ; for brake hose holder
14mm wrench or 14mm socket with ratchet ;for connection to brake caliper
A pan for catching fluid.
$28.00 New Brake hose plus new washers;debatable
$2.54 1 12 fluid ounce can of Brake Fluid.
$10.00 Torch kit;may not be necessary if steel line to hose is not rusted.

Alright let's do this!

Steps
1. While Car is down, loosen tire lug nuts and pull E-brake up
2. Jack up car
3. Put jack stand in place of Jack
4. Block the rear tires for no rolling
5. Now remove the tire.
6. Remove the 12mm hex nut that secures the middle section of the brake hose. Put that aside in a small tray or plate.

7. Remove the clip that secures the steel line-rubber hose connection in place
8. Now loosen the 10mm hex screw that connects the line to the hose. It should travel up and out of the hose. Now brake fluid should be dripping out of the steel line. Use the PAN


**Problem: nut is stuck tight;can't be loosened**
**Solution: FIRE! Use a torch to heat up the nut; which removes the rust around it. When doing this have the 8mm bleeder open or the Hose CUT into two!! Brake fluid WILL EXPAND rapidly and if it has nowhere to go it will BLOW THE HOSE IN YOUR FACE AND BURN YOU! ALSO CLEAN the surface. You don't want to set fluids on fire. **
In my case the nut screw was shut tight. I used a torch kit from Home Depot and heated the nut. The nut screw came up easily afterward. I had a fire extinguisher next to me just in case anything lit up. I had little flames burn up fluid. I doused them out with by wiping them off with a cloth.

9. Remove the 14mm nut on the brake caliper. Hose should now be completely disconnected.

10. Now salvage the brass washers from the hose or use the new ones

11. Now reverse the process with the new hose.
12. Tighten everything and close the bleeder valve
13. Now bleed the brake with a buddy or with a 1 person bleeder kit
14. Put the tire back on, lower the car and clear the blocks from underneath.
15.Test drive the car and see if the brake peddle is not mushy.
16. If all is good, you're done.

pics will be posted

[chronoti]

good job, this is the same for installing ss line, also for the rear brakes.

but i do suggest using new crush washers

[peshwa]

Great stuff DAT RICE....Thanks a ton for a nice DIY. Vote for sticky :-) I know its asking for too much but next time when you do a DIY on your car can u post a video on youtube? Would be awesome.

[DAT RICE]

Thanks so much guys^^ I'd do a vid but i broke my camcorder and my digital camera's battery is dead. I used my cellphone to take pics and its video mode is weak.

[ajkalian]

I'd like to offer an alternate suggestion on how to remove the hard brake line from the flexible brake line.

I would use a flare wrench, not an open end wrench on the flare fitting. They are specifically made to wrap around the hollow flare nut and get a better grip than an open end wrench.

All flexible lines come with a flat machined on them, where you can put an open end wrench to hold the flexible line while you turn the flare nut with a flare wrench.

If you squirt a little Liquid Wrench or PB blaster on the fitting before you wrench on it, the flare nut should come loose without having to resort to using a torch, risking a fire, and altering the chemistry of the brake fluid by heating it up.

Here's how I did it.




.

[Nervous]

[SilverSoarer]

Good points ajkalian.

Also, never replace rubber lines with stainless steel lines.

Neither Ferrari, Porsche, or Toyota recommend stainless - the reason being the steel lines have catastrophic brake failure (metal fatigue leading to burst), whereas with rubber hoses there is a gradual failure (hole leading to slow leak) - you a better chance of pulling over with stock factory rubber.