3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I have read alot about measuring the torque of bolts, but what exactly is it? Do I just need 1, or do I have to buy a whole set? I went online to NAPA and seen different ones, which should I buy?
Many of the ones I seen are expensive as fuck, think I only seen one in the 25 range
Last edited by 96ToyoCam164K; 11-30-2009 at 01:08 PM.
You don't absolutely need a torque wrench -- they're most useful if you're the sort that thinks every bolt needs to be jammed down as tight as possible. And they don't have to be expensive -- I got by for years with a couple of Sears beam-deflection wrenches. Harbor Freight also sells some reasonably priced click-type wrenches.
Click-type torque wrenches are the most useful for auto use -- that way you don't have to get in position to read the scale on a beam wrench. At a minimum, I'd keep a 3/8" drive click-type that reads in inch-pounds for the low torque stuff (spark plugs, fill plugs, valve cover bolts, etc), and a 1/2" drive click-type that reads in ft-pounds for the bigger stuff.
There are a variety of torque wenches out there with differences in quality as well. Beam type are usually cheapest but can be hard to use in tight places. I use a click-type myself but it's important to return it to it's lowest setting after use to release pressure on the spring. It also takes a bit of practice to use correctly. Dial types are good but again, sometimes hard to read in tight/dark spaces. You may need both an inch/pound and foot/pound wrench. While conversions can be made, usually the ft/lb will not set low enough to accurately torque an in/lb setting and in/lb wrenches won't go high enough for most ft/lb settings. I would start out with a ft/lb wench for general auto work. I've found my Craftsman click type to be just fine. I'm able to 'test' it against annually calibrated Snap-On' s from work and it seems to have held up well. Sure others can give you better advice but that's my 2 cents.
I have both a click type and beam type in lb-ft. I also own a click type lb-in. That being said, if you're on a budget and don't wrench often, a beam type is probably the best. Cheap, easy to calibrate (by bending the needle to zero), and no special storage concerns.
edit: torque wrenches are especially important when mounting wheels. Overtightening the bolts can result in warped rotors or damaged wheels. Undertightening will result in insufficient preload, and the wheel will likely fall off during use.
I try to use torque wrenches for as many bolts that I don't use the "calibrated arm" for, such as oil changes. Lug nuts, brake calipers, etc I would definitely use a torque wrench.
The 1/4" I typically use for transmission filters/strainers and pan bolts. Brake bleeder screws too, especially on aluminum calipers. But this one is typically more costly, ~$20 on sale. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2696
I also have Danaher-made torque wrenches, such as those branded as Craftsman or Lowe's Kobalt. I don't need $300-400 Snap-on wrenches. But those are pretty good.
So get a 1/2" first and maybe a 3/8" from Harbor Freight for starters. And go from there.
I have read alot about measuring the torque of bolts, but what exactly is it? Do I just need 1, or do I have to buy a whole set? I went online to NAPA and seen different ones, which should I buy?
Many of the ones I seen are expensive as fuck, think I only seen one in the 25 range
i was shocked the other day i was strolling through walmart and saw they now sell torque wrenches, i only saw ft lb versions no inch lbs yet
I saw the same thing the other day and was a bit shocked.
Anyone that does anything to there car any more serious than changing their oil should likely own a torque wrench. You can get one for $20 and you could probably spend $2,000 on one if you'd like. I've had nothing but excellent experiences with the $20 I purchased from Harbor Freight. It's one of the few Harbor Freight items I'd be willing to recommend.
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1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 249,xxx miles - New water pump, TB etc etc
1989 Camry-Gone but not forgotten. Car has become a birthday gift for my cousin.
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles - New flasher relay installed.
seriously am i the only one that was surprised when the title was read? i know ova on 3SI or 3S Tech (3000GT/Stealth forums) something like this would get laughed at made fun of closed and erased from the database. ToyotaNation yall are nice..... REALLY REALLY REALLY NICE!!!!
seriously am i the only one that was surprised when the title was read? i know ova on 3SI or 3S Tech (3000GT/Stealth forums) something like this would get laughed at made fun of closed and erased from the database. ToyotaNation yall are nice..... REALLY REALLY REALLY NICE!!!!
Even while knowing what a torque wrench is, I still haven't torqued anything to spec on my car. Last time I needed to, I realized the torque wrenches I have don't go above 150 ft/lbs. A few months ago I couldn't tell you what a torque wrench was. I would have just assumed it was a type of socket wrench, which is true, just not specific enough. You can get away with not torquing shit to spec for.... ever, really. As long as you tighten it hard enough and evenly (when there are multiple bolts/nuts for a cover etc), you're good. If too hard and you break a bolt, oh well, replace it. That doesn't happen much unless the bolt is old and brittle. I will say that anyone who laughs at someone for not being familiar with a torque wrench is likely an elitist, or just an asshole. I'd be long gone from this forum if it was overwhelmingly filled with such persons.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
Growing up, cars were overbuilt in some respects. I only used torque wrenches when changing head gaskets. Most everything else could usually handle what you could put into it. You could crank down lug nuts to where it took almost super human effort to remove without warping the wheels but not anymore. Now things seem to be built just above what is required to actually function. I've had tire places screw my wheels up by over-tightening them and they should know better. I have better luck with tranny pans and drain plugs with a torque wrench than without.Try getting an oil or tranny pan to seal after someone's cranked the bolts too much. Experience the thrill of a stripped drain plug or even leaking from a damaged drain plug seal/gasket sometime. Does one really need a torque wench? No, but it sure doesn't hurt if used properly.
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