Stupid Axle Question

[Kevin89AllTrac]

I've looked at every CV/axle/boot thread but...

Replacing the passenger side axle because the outer boot is ripped. '94 V6 automatic. Advance Auto has a Fenco reman for $50. Once I get the hub swung out of the way, just six 8mm socket head screws and the axle comes off?

I've been reading horror stories about seized carrier bearings...I'm not removing the center drive shaft, I'm just unbolting the outer axle (with the two CV joints) from the center drive shaft (I hope.) So no removing the center lock bolt or snap ring, right?

[ghettosled]

while the 4 cylinder and v6 axels might be different, try this link to answer some questions:

this is a "how to" on replacing the passenger's side CV boots (warning- many photos)

i too was afraid of a seized bearing.

[Kevin89AllTrac]

Yeah, I saw that thread. The four cylinder axle, shown in the photographs, doesn't bolt on the center shaft as the V6 does. I can see how the four cylinder shaft would be tough to get out, especially if it's rusty.

Anyone replaced their right axle on a V6 auto?

[Eye8Pussies]

yup- 8 bolts and it's on/off

my only advice is that an impact gun is your best friend

[BMR]

Yeah, like Eye8 said, those socket head cap screws are in there tight. (Is it 8 of 'em???... I thought it was 6?) I used a good hex-wrench 1/2" socket and about 2 feet of extensions so I could get a long cheater pipe on my breaker bar outside the wheel well. The last thing you wanna do is strip out those bolt's sockets! So be sure the hex bit is in primo shape.

Still WAAAAAAYY preferable to dealing with the 4 cyl's typically-frozen-carrier-bearing.

[Kevin89AllTrac]

Thanks, Kingston, thanks BMR.

I'm surprised the shop manual doesn't say anything about R&R'ing just the outer shaft. It only shows taking out the outer and center shafts as a unit:

3. DRAIN TRANSAXLE OIL
...
10. REMOVE RH DRIVE SHAFT
(a) Remove the bearing lock bolt.
(b) Using pliers, remove the snap ring, and pull out the
drive shaft.

[chronoti]

splurge it like 10 or 12 more for NEW not reman axels

[White95Cam]

Originally Posted by ghettosled

while the 4 cylinder and v6 axels might be different, try this link to answer some questions:

this is a "how to" on replacing the passenger's side CV boots (warning- many photos)

i too was afraid of a seized bearing.

If your axles are not making noise and all you have if a torn boot then the above link is the way to go. It is standard practice at Toyota Repair shops. This was how my ASE trained Toyota tech fixed mine. He told me that repacked OEM axles with even high miles are better than manufactured or rebuilt. He said he had about a 15% return rate on reman. ones because of noise & vibrations.
W95c

[Kevin89AllTrac]

Originally Posted by White95Cam

He told me that repacked OEM axles with even high miles are better than manufactured or rebuilt.

I wish it was an OEM axle. The previous owner took the car to a shop complaining about an oil leak. The shop replaced the power steering pump and right shaft but didn't fix the rear valve cover gasket which was the actual cause of the leak. This at 60K miles, driven by an old lady.

So, 25K miles later, the crappy aftermarket axle boot is cracked in half and the aftermarket power steering pump has a slow leak.

I've read a couple of good things about Fenco reman's but who knows? Advance Auto didn't have a listing for a new axle but I see that Autozone does, a "Duralast" for $60. I'm not sure how anyone could make a decent axle with two joints for $60. NAPA has new for $87, but still...

At least with a reman it's a good bet that the axle passed through a Toyota factory at some point in its life. So I'll gamble on the Fenco.

[charley240sx]

i replaced the passenger side with a reman, the boot busted, and when i went to replace, found out the the internal joint bearing casing had actually broken apart.
so yeah, no no on reman products.
gl
and yeah, it's 6 hex bolts, and use an extension, they are on there pretty good.
charley