3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I've had my 92 camry dx since about 2002 and everything works well. I didn't like the lack of heat blowing into my camry when it was -25°C and less outside (at idling at a stop light, it'd blow luke-warm air, unless i race the engine a bit). I knew the heater core was good and the thermostat worked fine cause it reached the operating temperature normally (on my short trip to work, operating point would normally be reached). I guess that's just how the camry was designed.
So in the 2008-2009 winter i decided to change to a higher temperature thermostat. The OEM existing thermostat in the car worked fine, i just wanted a higher temperature one so i could get more heat into the cabin. The one i took out was OEM and rated at 180°F, the new one i put in was aftermarket and 190°F. I was excited to test it out to see if i got more heat. Boy was i wrong. It actually took longer to reach the operating temperature. And with the cabin fan turned on the highest speed the coolant temperature gauge in my dash would actually drop!
I decided to open the thermostat housing and check if i had installed the thermostat properly. I took out the thermostat and returned it and got another one. I noted putting on the round rubber gasket properly (which i noticed was smaller and less thick than the OEM toyota one). Put everything back together and recharged system with a proper coolant mixture and the same problems existed.
Now that winter has returned for 2009-2010, i'm beginning to see the same problems. I had thrown out the OEM toyota thermostat, so now i'm wondering if it's a thermostat issue due to it being crappy aftermarket, or if it's a gasket issue. If the gasket is too small, it might be letting some coolant pass through which is not good...any ideas anyone? I might just go and buy another OEM thermostat and OEM gasket.
I have the same problem with my heater, it just dosen't heat alot... I doubt a new OEM thermostat will give you any better results than the look-warm heat you had before, it must be something else...
Have you tried blocking off some or all of the front of the radiator (the old cardboard trick)? I don't think the water pump circulates water all that well when the thermostat is closed, and if the cooling system is working "too well", the thermostat is going to be closed a lot of the time to keep the engine core warm. A higher-temp thermo is going to make the problem worse, since it will be closed more in order to keep the engine core at the high temp.
looks like going back to what i had before (OEM t-stat and gasket) is better than what i'm experiencing now, even if what i had before wasn't good enough for me, but it's the best that it's going to get. I just thought i could get better heat by putting an aftermarket high temp t-stat, but looks like that is not working properly. I'll do the change tomorrow and let you know about the results.
Last year, I did the cardboard trick, but it just seems like cheating.
You say the aftermarket gasket was thinner. Is it possible it let coolant bypass the t-stat around the edges? Maybe two gaskets would do the trick. Or ask if you can get an OEM with a higher rating.
Maybe you just have a clogged heater core or something o that effect? Putting the car in recirculate mode would help, warm up luke warm air instead of cold air.
You say the aftermarket gasket was thinner. Is it possible it let coolant bypass the t-stat around the edges? Maybe two gaskets would do the trick. Or ask if you can get an OEM with a higher rating.
that's one of my theories and might test it out tomorrow. The toyota dealer quoted me $8.30 for a gasket!! WOW!!!
BTW, maybe it's extreme considering the relatively cheap cost of most t-stats and the rarity of getting a defective new part but one could always drop a t-stat and candy thermometer into a bowl of water, heat it up and observe when it actually starts to open and when it's fully open. I had a 180 that began opening at 110 and was fully open by 160. Had no noticeable heat at all. Could have just replaced it but it looked fine, I was a student and couldn't afford to replace stuff unnecessarily so I wanted to be sure.
Early Toyotas did not give a lot of heat unless as the OP stated you drive it hard.
Had a 91 Corrola, have an 01 now and the heat up time is almost twice as fast not to mention maybe 5C warmer.
91 cooling system was A1 condition, backflushed every 2 years.
I've had my 92 camry dx since about 2002 and everything works well. I didn't like the lack of heat blowing into my camry when it was -25°C and less outside (at idling at a stop light, it'd blow luke-warm air, unless i race the engine a bit). I knew the heater core was good and the thermostat worked fine cause it reached the operating temperature normally (on my short trip to work, operating point would normally be reached). I guess that's just how the camry was designed.
The heater core has nothing to do with the engine warming up to operating temperature normally. The heater core could most certainly be clogged up and this wouldn't have anything to do with the engine temp. I think you're chasing down the wrong road here. Your engine is at the correct temp. Now, lets move to the heater problem. There are two hoses running from the engine to the heater core. When you get the engine warmed up to operating temp feel both hoses. Are they about the same temp? If one is much hotter than the other then your heater core is restricting the coolant from flowing through it. Or the heater control valve isn't letting the coolant flow through the core. I'm not an expert on these Camry's so I'm not sure how to get at the temp control valve but I suspect it might be located behind the dash somewhere near the heater core. I've got a '92 4 cylinder Camry with 180k miles on it. I'm having a lack of heat and need to either change the heater core or control valve. Anybody have experience with changing these that can post here would help us both. Good luck.
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'92 Camry 4 cyl
'97 Rav4L
'87 Chev Conversion van
'86 Corvette, heavily modded and raced on the track often, road and autocross, no drags.
I'm not an expert on these Camry's so I'm not sure how to get at the temp control valve but I suspect it might be located behind the dash somewhere near the heater core. I've got a '92 4 cylinder Camry with 180k miles on it. I'm having a lack of heat and need to either change the heater core or control valve. Anybody have experience with changing these that can post here would help us both. Good luck.
Water valve is easy -- engine compartment next to the firewall, driver's side. Got a cable going to a lever on it, and a couple coolant hoses connected to it. Can't miss it.
Never had to change out the heater core on one of these rigs, but the manuals at www.camrystuff.com , Generation 3 might be helpful. Doesn't look too awful, but heater cores in general are always a pain just because it's kind of cramped down there.
Yep, hill8570 is correct. Very easy to spot it on the firewall when standing next to the left fender. Have somebody turn the temp knob back and forth from cold to hot on the dash while you watch the valve and make sure the cable is functioning the valve. You can also easily unhook the cable from the valve and twist the valve by hand to open and zip tie it open if the cable isn't working. Then in the summer just zip tie it closed. Another thing to make sure is that your coolant is full and no air in the system. If you've been changing the thermostat I'd make triple sure the system is full up. If the coolant is low you're not going to get enough circulating through the heater core. My mechanic friend said these cores don't plug up easily and he doesn't suspect that to be the problem here.
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'92 Camry 4 cyl
'97 Rav4L
'87 Chev Conversion van
'86 Corvette, heavily modded and raced on the track often, road and autocross, no drags.
By any chance, does anyone know what the torque spec is for the thermostat housing bolts for a 1997 Camry? Thanks.
Around 70 in-lbs for the six-banger; around 80 in-lbs for the four-banger (that's inch-pounds NOT foot-pounds). Basically, snug 'em down, but don't get crazy.
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