Servicing Questions.....

[The-Camry-Guy]

I got a 94 camry v6 and am planning on doing the service myself. There are a few things i need clearing up.

DIFF/TRANNY FLUID

I was reading the service shedule and at 160k it says to change differential gear oil (transmission fluid) but on next page it says only check transmission fluid level. Im not sure the differential between these as the diff fluid says its tranny fluid in brackets.

FUEL FILTER

It also says to replace the fuel filter. Is that necessary? It seems to be funtioning ok as far as power and all.

BRAKE FLUID

It also says to replace the brake fluid. Now since its to do with the brakes (kinda important) i wanna know im doing it right. First of all, some ppl say it doesnt really need to be replaced (or is that only with new cars?). Also is it relatively easy to flush/bleed the fluid and replace?

ENGINE OIL

I was going to buy some castrol GTX (or GTX2 maybe) 20W50 (it gets really got in summer here). iv been reading and some ppl say castrol are rubbish and some say they are all the same. What are your opinions on this?

EXHAUST

I was underneath my car (as u do) and i noticed a leak. It was quite a lot. Im pretty sure its coming from my exhaust. There is a hole after the manifold buy before the cat. I was wondering if there is an easy solution (iv heard of filling it with some kind of gum?). My car has been smelling of burning after long trips. Could this be the result of the hole and the smell of burnt petrol coming out of it? i can smell it well when i put my nose to the bottom of the windshield.

Thank you all very much for your responses. I will try and get a photo of the exhaust hole ASAP.

Thanks

[chronoti]

DIFF/TRANNY FLUID

the trans has a seperat diff that needs changing

FUEL FILTER

no, but easy to do, it just under the air box

BRAKE FLUID

really no, but dot 3,4,5.1 fluids will mix with water and boil at a lower temp and fail. also dirt does get in the system.

ENGINE OIL

too thick, 5w-20 is the new listed oil for the mz, 10w-40 should be good enough.


EXHAUST

cut and weld in a small run of pipe most exhaust shops do this in like 20min for like $25

[Chris Crash]

The fuel filter is just another filter like your air filter, etc. Go ahead and change it. It won't hurt.

Go ahead and change the diff fluid. Also won't hurt.

Oil is oil. Buy whatever you want to buy. But yeah, that's a little thick.

Brake fluid can absorb water so I change mine every 2 years and would recommend you do the same. It's easy, just time consuming.

For the exhaust you don't need to get a pipe put in, they have repair sleeves for sale at local auto stores that you put around the hole, and can clamp on with exhaust clamps. Shouldn't cost you more than five bucks and about ten minutes. Probably take longer to put the car on jacks than to place the sleeve on!

[The-Camry-Guy]

Thank you all for your replies!

Originally Posted by chronoti

DIFF/TRANNY FLUID

the trans has a seperat diff that needs changing

FUEL FILTER

no, but easy to do, it just under the air box

BRAKE FLUID

really no, but dot 3,4,5.1 fluids will mix with water and boil at a lower temp and fail. also dirt does get in the system.

ENGINE OIL

too thick, 5w-20 is the new listed oil for the mz, 10w-40 should be good enough.


EXHAUST

cut and weld in a small run of pipe most exhaust shops do this in like 20min for like $25

I have a 3VZ-Fe engine not an MZ so would that need different viscocity than ur recommendation for the mz? thanx

Originally Posted by Chris Crash

The fuel filter is just another filter like your air filter, etc. Go ahead and change it. It won't hurt.

Go ahead and change the diff fluid. Also won't hurt.

Oil is oil. Buy whatever you want to buy. But yeah, that's a little thick.

Brake fluid can absorb water so I change mine every 2 years and would recommend you do the same. It's easy, just time consuming.

For the exhaust you don't need to get a pipe put in, they have repair sleeves for sale at local auto stores that you put around the hole, and can clamp on with exhaust clamps. Shouldn't cost you more than five bucks and about ten minutes. Probably take longer to put the car on jacks than to place the sleeve on!

DIFF/TRANNY FLUID

So how do i check the diff fluid level? i only see a tranny level dip-stick. also where do i put in the new fluid?

FUEL FILTER

K so all i gotta do is:

- take neg. battery terminal off
- unscrew fuel lines
- unbolt filter housing
- put new filter in housing
- then attach everything else in reverse order

BRAKE FLUID

I havnt changed the brake fluid since i bought it (a few years ago). The brakes are working well but I'll prolly change it as you two have suggested. The only thing I am worried about is if i dont do it correct and the brakes fail. Is that a problem?

ENGINE OIL

K so it doesnt really matter what brand i go for (as long as i go for a brand and not some cheapo job).

Isnt 5W20 for really cold climates? isnt it that thin for easy cold starting? 10W40 sounds good but do u think i should maybe go with 15W40? or is that too thick. the reason i got such a high viscosity oil is because here in Australia we get temperatures of 40 Celcisus+ (104 Farenheight).

From my understanding the 20 in (20W50) indicates it will not THIN more than 20 weight oil at cold temperature (with engine off). and the 50 means it will not thin more than 50 weight oil while running the engine. u need thicker oil while running cause the car can not start with really thick oil. is that basically correct? plz correct if wrong.


EXHAUST

K thanks for help with this, i will ask local shop about sleeves and if I cant get them will ask around for the welding idea. Do you people think this could casue the burning smell?

Again thanx for all reaplies. Much appriciated

[Kenny_McCormic]

20-50 is really meant for worn out/loose engines. 10-40 is ideal for your climate, Castrol GTX is a good oil.

[Chris Crash]

Originally Posted by The-Camry-Guy

DIFF/TRANNY FLUID

So how do i check the diff fluid level? i only see a tranny level dip-stick. also where do i put in the new fluid?

FUEL FILTER

K so all i gotta do is:

- take neg. battery terminal off
- unscrew fuel lines
- unbolt filter housing
- put new filter in housing
- then attach everything else in reverse order

BRAKE FLUID

I havnt changed the brake fluid since i bought it (a few years ago). The brakes are working well but I'll prolly change it as you two have suggested. The only thing I am worried about is if i dont do it correct and the brakes fail. Is that a problem?

ENGINE OIL

K so it doesnt really matter what brand i go for (as long as i go for a brand and not some cheapo job).

Isnt 5W20 for really cold climates? isnt it that thin for easy cold starting? 10W40 sounds good but do u think i should maybe go with 15W40? or is that too thick. the reason i got such a high viscosity oil is because here in Australia we get temperatures of 40 Celcisus+ (104 Farenheight).

From my understanding the 20 in (20W50) indicates it will not THIN more than 20 weight oil at cold temperature (with engine off). and the 50 means it will not thin more than 50 weight oil while running the engine. u need thicker oil while running cause the car can not start with really thick oil. is that basically correct? plz correct if wrong.


EXHAUST

K thanks for help with this, i will ask local shop about sleeves and if I cant get them will ask around for the welding idea. Do you people think this could casue the burning smell?

Again thanx for all reaplies. Much appriciated

For the diff fluid, you will have to get under the car. There will be a drain plug and a fill plug. They both have a 1/4" (I think, maybe bigger) square cut out for you to put a socket wrench in and loosen them. Open the fill plug, if fluid won't pour out if it's correct/low. It should be pretty much level with the hole. If not, add some.
If you want to CHANGE the fluid, just drain with the drain plug BUT BEFORE YOU DRAIN IT:
-->>>> MAKE SURE YOUR FILL PLUG WILL COME OUT
Because if it's stuck in there, and you drain it...you can't fill it back up!
Then put the drain plug back in, fill it up till it starts pouring out of the fill hole. Let it level off. And you're good there.

Fuel filter, you got the idea. Gas will come out of both ends, so have something around to catch it/clean it up. Do NOT clamp the lines to keep it from coming out.

Brake Fluid Go ahead and change it, it won't hurt anything. Just make sure you put enough in there, and bleed it. The only way you would fuck anything up is by being low on fluid or by not bleeding the brakes and having air in the system. After you change the fluid, start the car and pump the brake pedal. If it feels kinda spongy, then there's air in it. Bleed again. If it firms up, you're good.
Don't take it on the open road until you test it.

Oil Personally I don't believe there's much of a difference between brands, the only difference is whether or not it's conventional, synthetic or synthetic blend. You will waste your money with the blend.
I also don't believe there's a point in putting synthetic in a camry.
I used to live in California which had similar temperatures as yours, probably not always as hot as you get though. We always used 10w30 and that was fine.
If I were you, I would get 10/15W40/50
Or go to your local auto shop/store and ask what they think. They know the cars and the weather better than anyone here will.

But yes, the way you described the numbers is correct. You want a thicker fluid since it's always hot there. How cold does it get there? That will determine if you want 10, 15 or maybe even 20.

The exhaust could cause that burning smell, depending on a few things:
Where is the leak?
What does it smell like? (burning rubber, plastic, metal, exhaust, gas, etc.)

[The-Camry-Guy]

Originally Posted by Kenny_McCormic

20-50 is really meant for worn out/loose engines. 10-40 is ideal for your climate, Castrol GTX is a good oil.

k thanx for that, i was going to get the GTX, do u know if i should use GTX or GTX2? they are both ok for post 1990 im pretty sure. thanx

Originally Posted by Chris Crash

For the diff fluid, you will have to get under the car. There will be a drain plug and a fill plug. They both have a 1/4" (I think, maybe bigger) square cut out for you to put a socket wrench in and loosen them. Open the fill plug, if fluid won't pour out if it's correct/low. It should be pretty much level with the hole. If not, add some.
If you want to CHANGE the fluid, just drain with the drain plug BUT BEFORE YOU DRAIN IT:
-->>>> MAKE SURE YOUR FILL PLUG WILL COME OUT
Because if it's stuck in there, and you drain it...you can't fill it back up!
Then put the drain plug back in, fill it up till it starts pouring out of the fill hole. Let it level off. And you're good there.

Fuel filter, you got the idea. Gas will come out of both ends, so have something around to catch it/clean it up. Do NOT clamp the lines to keep it from coming out.

Brake Fluid Go ahead and change it, it won't hurt anything. Just make sure you put enough in there, and bleed it. The only way you would fuck anything up is by being low on fluid or by not bleeding the brakes and having air in the system. After you change the fluid, start the car and pump the brake pedal. If it feels kinda spongy, then there's air in it. Bleed again. If it firms up, you're good.
Don't take it on the open road until you test it.

Oil Personally I don't believe there's much of a difference between brands, the only difference is whether or not it's conventional, synthetic or synthetic blend. You will waste your money with the blend.
I also don't believe there's a point in putting synthetic in a camry.
I used to live in California which had similar temperatures as yours, probably not always as hot as you get though. We always used 10w30 and that was fine.
If I were you, I would get 10/15W40/50
Or go to your local auto shop/store and ask what they think. They know the cars and the weather better than anyone here will.

But yes, the way you described the numbers is correct. You want a thicker fluid since it's always hot there. How cold does it get there? That will determine if you want 10, 15 or maybe even 20.

The exhaust could cause that burning smell, depending on a few things:
Where is the leak?
What does it smell like? (burning rubber, plastic, metal, exhaust, gas, etc.)

k thanx for ur reply.

DIFF/TRANNY FLUID

do i use the same fluid as in the tranny for the diff? im not sure if i have the guts to do it atm. the car is needed for work so i might leave changing the diff, would it be ok to leave it?

FUEL FILTER

This seems pretty ok to change, might give it ago. thanx for tellimg me to get ready to catch the petrol, if i didnt know that i dont know what would happen! i saw on it there were a few lines. is it just one in and one out? do i just use a spanner or wrench to take lines out?

BRAKE FLUID

ok, it isnt hard to bleed it is it? i will have a look at some guides on it, i tink there is one on this forum. i havnt done any of these on cars before, wanting to do it myself this time.

ENGINE OIL

i will just use mineral oil in it, always used it and i too dont see the piont of using sinthetic (or blend). in the manual it has a viscocity chart. using that i worked out i should use 20W50. do u think thats too thick? my car is a '94 and has 165500km ish (102836miles).

lately its not been getting very cold here (everywhere is heating up.......). the lowest in the early morning of mddle winter might be 9 celcius (48 farenheight). thats why first i thought of using 20W as it doesnt get that cold here. and that is the lowest it will ever get, and even that is very rare.

I got it serviced by someone about 1 and a half yrs ago, i dont know what oil he used. I did top it up when it was getting low with some shell helix 20W50 i had sitting around, however i will buy new oil as its not much left.

EXHAUST

the hole is just before the cat converter. it goes a bit wierd, it has serrations kinda (its supposed to be there iv seen it on other car pics also). first i thought the smelling was oil going onto exhaust or somehting hot and burning up. it smells like burnig oil i thinnk (never smelt burning oil) but it doesnt smell of normal petrol (maybe burnt petrol??). it might be like rubber, ill have to smell again next time. if it is rubber what could it mean?

thanks again for all ur help. its much appreciated

[JohnGD]

Be careful with doing the brake fluid flush and the fuel filter. These are not hard if you are mechanically inclined and can follow instructions.

I'd recommend that you read up on them first. For example, fuel pressure needs to be relieved and you need to be aware of various safety issues dealing with petro. www.autozone.com has free online repair manual. I'm not sure if you can access them in Oz. But free with registration. It's a good place to start.

[The-Camry-Guy]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Be careful with doing the brake fluid flush and the fuel filter. These are not hard if you are mechanically inclined and can follow instructions.

I'd recommend that you read up on them first. For example, fuel pressure needs to be relieved and you need to be aware of various safety issues dealing with petro. www.autozone.com has free online repair manual. I'm not sure if you can access them in Oz. But free with registration. It's a good place to start.

ok i will try and access it, thank u very much for help. safety should be no. 1 when doing anything.

much appriciated

[The-Camry-Guy]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Be careful with doing the brake fluid flush and the fuel filter. These are not hard if you are mechanically inclined and can follow instructions.

I'd recommend that you read up on them first. For example, fuel pressure needs to be relieved and you need to be aware of various safety issues dealing with petro. www.autozone.com has free online repair manual. I'm not sure if you can access them in Oz. But free with registration. It's a good place to start.

i went on the webiste (and registered) and cannot find where the instructions (guides) are for brake fluid replacement. i found then for oil, air filter, fuel filter and lots more. its not there. did u find it?

also i read the instructions for replacing fuel filter and it was really complicated. it said something about putting a gague onto a valve and lots other stuff.

here is the guide:





Fuel Filter

Inspect/Replace

Fuel filters and elements are serviced by replacement only. Some vehicle manufacturers recommend fuel filter replacement at 30,000 miles (48,000 km). Always replace the fuel filter at the vehicle manufacturer's recommended mileage.
The fuel filter replacement procedure varies depending on the make and year of the vehicle and the type of fuel system. Always follow the filter replacement procedure in the appropriate service manual. The photo sequence below shows a typical procedure for relieving fuel pressure and removing a fuel filter.
Removing a Fuel Filter on an EFI Vehicle

Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.

Loosen the fuel tank filler cap to relieve any fuel tank vapor pressure.

Wrap a shop towel around the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and remove the dust cap from the valve.

Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve.

Install the free end of the gauge bleed hose into an approved gasoline container, and open the gauge bleed valve to relieve the fuel pressure.

Place the vehicle on the hoist and position the lift arms according to manufacturer's recommendations. Then raise the vehicle.

Flush the fuel filter line connectors with water, and use compressed air to blow debris off and away from the connectors.

Follow the recommended procedures for disconnecting the fuel inlet connector.

Art courtesy of Delmar - Thomson Learning. Follow the recommended procedures for disconnecting the fuel outlet connector, then remove the fuel filter.
Installing Fuel Filters
In-line fuel filters are installed in the fuel line. In carbureted engines, the in-line gasoline filter is usually installed between the fuel pump and the carburetor. In vehicles with a fuel injection system, the location of the fuel filter is determined by the manufacturer. An arrow on the filter shows the direction of fuel flow.

• To install a new filter, begin by wiping the male tube ends of the new filter with a clean shop towel.
• Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male tube ends on the filter.
• Check the quick connectors to be sure the large collar on each connector has rotated back to the original position. The springs must be visible on the inside diameter of each quick connector.
• Then install the filter in the proper direction and leave the mounting bolt slightly loose.
• Install the outlet connector onto the filter outlet tube and press the connector firmly in place until the spring snaps into position.
• Grasp the fuel line and try to pull this line from the filter to be sure the quick connector is locked in place.
• Then, do the same with the inlet connector.
• Now tighten the filter retaining bolt to the specified torque.
• Once everything is connected, lower the vehicle, start the engine, and check for fuel leaks at the filter.

thanks for everyones help!

[The-Camry-Guy]

Originally Posted by Chris Crash

For the diff fluid, you will have to get under the car. There will be a drain plug and a fill plug. They both have a 1/4" (I think, maybe bigger) square cut out for you to put a socket wrench in and loosen them. Open the fill plug, if fluid won't pour out if it's correct/low. It should be pretty much level with the hole. If not, add some.
If you want to CHANGE the fluid, just drain with the drain plug BUT BEFORE YOU DRAIN IT:
-->>>> MAKE SURE YOUR FILL PLUG WILL COME OUT
Because if it's stuck in there, and you drain it...you can't fill it back up!
Then put the drain plug back in, fill it up till it starts pouring out of the fill hole. Let it level off. And you're good there.

Fuel filter, you got the idea. Gas will come out of both ends, so have something around to catch it/clean it up. Do NOT clamp the lines to keep it from coming out.

Brake Fluid Go ahead and change it, it won't hurt anything. Just make sure you put enough in there, and bleed it. The only way you would fuck anything up is by being low on fluid or by not bleeding the brakes and having air in the system. After you change the fluid, start the car and pump the brake pedal. If it feels kinda spongy, then there's air in it. Bleed again. If it firms up, you're good.
Don't take it on the open road until you test it.

Oil Personally I don't believe there's much of a difference between brands, the only difference is whether or not it's conventional, synthetic or synthetic blend. You will waste your money with the blend.
I also don't believe there's a point in putting synthetic in a camry.
I used to live in California which had similar temperatures as yours, probably not always as hot as you get though. We always used 10w30 and that was fine.
If I were you, I would get 10/15W40/50
Or go to your local auto shop/store and ask what they think. They know the cars and the weather better than anyone here will.

But yes, the way you described the numbers is correct. You want a thicker fluid since it's always hot there. How cold does it get there? That will determine if you want 10, 15 or maybe even 20.

The exhaust could cause that burning smell, depending on a few things:
Where is the leak?
What does it smell like? (burning rubber, plastic, metal, exhaust, gas, etc.)

sorry for multiple posts. if i didnt would be a bit messy. anyway i was reading up on the autozone.com that JohnGD gave me and looking up motor mounts. they said its made of rubber. now i know that mine are not functioning correctly (excessive vibration at idle, the engine actually moving u and down when shifting into and from reverse and so on) but havnt gotten round to replacing them. my question is that could the rubber on the mounts be burning and making the smell i described? usually on long trips either on highway or congested city driving.

thanks!

[Chris Crash]

No, I don't see how that would cause a burning smell. It is made of rubber, yes, but wouldn't be going near the exhaust.

[The-Camry-Guy]

Originally Posted by Chris Crash

No, I don't see how that would cause a burning smell. It is made of rubber, yes, but wouldn't be going near the exhaust.

k thanx for info. do u think that i should stick with what the manual viscosity chart recommends for my climate (20W50) or should i go with somethine else? also is the fuel filter easier than the guide showed? thanx

[Chris Crash]

Stick with what the chart says for your climate.

The fuel filter is easy once you find it.
I have no idea where they are on the Gen 3. But it should be easy.

[JohnGD]

I found it under ABS bleeding for Autozone. It's not too detailed. So I link to this:

http://corp.advanceautoparts.com/eng...20011001bb.asp

www.advanceautoparts.com
--> Click on "Advance Know-How" Tab on upper right of page
--> Click on "Know-How Articles"
--> Click on "DIY Maintenance"
--> Click on "Brake Bleeding".



Autozone:

See Figure 1

The brake fluid reservoir is located on top of the master cylinder. While no special procedures are needed to fill the fluid, the reservoir cap and surrounding area must be wiped clean of all dirt and debris before removing the cap. The slightest dirt in the fluid can cause a system malfunction. Use only DOT 3 fluid from an unopened container. Use of old, polluted or non-approved fluid can seriously impair the function of the system.

Bleeding is performed in the usual manner, using either a pressure bleeder or the 2-person manual method. If a pressure bleeder is used, it must be of the diaphragm type with an internal diaphragm separating the air chamber from the fluid. Tighten each bleeder plug to 74 inch lbs. (8 Nm).

Always begin the bleeding with the longest brake line, then the next longest, and so on. If the master cylinder has been repaired or if the reservoir has been emptied, the master cylinder will need to be bled before the individual lines and calipers. During any bleeding procedure, make certain to maintain the fluid level above the MIN line on the reservoir. When the bleeding procedure is complete, fill the reservoir to the MAX line before reinstalling the cap.