3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
My mechanic today gave me terrible news, said my rear main seal is completely blown open. I leak about 1 quart of oil every two days so it sounds pretty logical.
He gave me an estimate of 500 bucks, he would buy the parts and the oil(s) necessary using that money.
Now my question is: Is it worth it? The car is a 96 with 153,000 miles on it. I can see a good amount of sludge under the oil cap but have never taken the valve cover off. The engine doesn't look to have been maintained very well by the previous owner.
The upside: The car drives perfect. Struts are a bit noisy but solid. Driving is smooth, I have no complaints.
I guess my only complain is MPG, which I only get about 21 mixed. (Recent tune up down)
So with these things considered, would you invest the 500 dollars to get this done?
1. Engine is most likely sludged
2. MPG is pretty crappy for a 2.2L
3. Lots of money invested recently (Timing belt at 148k, new tires, recent tune up)
4. Car drives perfect
5. Exterior and in pretty great condition
6. Engine has 152k on it.
7. Previous owner was an asshat and most likely neglected the car.
8. Car shakes slightly, especially with heat on
9. Struts are noisy (clunking)
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1996 Toyota Camry | 4 Cyl. 2.2L | Black Paint with Tan Interior | All Stock | DEAD at 155k. Broken Crankshaft/Main Bearing
If the rear main seal has that obvious a leak then nobody but a junkyard is going to buy that thing.
Now suppose if you spend the money to fix it, will you be able to sell it for $1000-1500? Because Edmunds lists approx $2100 for a "private-party" sale. But, as you know, nobody pays "sticker", and if parts are not working the price goes down.
However, used car prices had gone up some because of cash-for-clunkers. So who knows.
Why don't you price out a replacement first before you spend any more hard earned dollars. Even to see if a used car lot is willing to take it off your hands. Because it sounds like you're going to need quite a bit of work on yours even if the rear main seal gets fixed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrospekt
My mechanic today gave me terrible news, said my rear main seal is completely blown open. I leak about 1 quart of oil every two days so it sounds pretty logical.
He gave me an estimate of 500 bucks, he would buy the parts and the oil(s) necessary using that money.
Now my question is: Is it worth it? The car is a 96 with 153,000 miles on it. I can see a good amount of sludge under the oil cap but have never taken the valve cover off. The engine doesn't look to have been maintained very well by the previous owner.
The upside: The car drives perfect. Struts are a bit noisy but solid. Driving is smooth, I have no complaints.
I guess my only complain is MPG, which I only get about 21 mixed. (Recent tune up down)
So with these things considered, would you invest the 500 dollars to get this done?
1. Engine is most likely sludged
2. MPG is pretty crappy for a 2.2L
3. Lots of money invested recently (Timing belt at 148k, new tires, recent tune up)
4. Car drives perfect
5. Exterior and in pretty great condition
6. Engine has 152k on it.
7. Previous owner was an asshat and most likely neglected the car.
8. Car shakes slightly, especially with heat on
9. Struts are noisy (clunking)
if sludged, dont fix. get low mileage used engine. often, there is a jdm engine out there that has reallly low mileage for a great price .
you make me feel good but i have feeling its your engine's fault or something else as well, aobut my fuel economy of 19mpg. you get 10% more, and you do mixed driving. i only do little short trips 4 miles every couple days, thts it, hardly that great for economy and my car heavier, and i got the somewhat thirst toyota v6 known as 3vz-fe [compared to 1mzfe which is more miserly].... but i have a 5spd and know how to shift and when and all that stuff. but still, when i hear you with 14 wheels and 2.2l 4 cyl only beat me by 10%, i smile. lol i think your car new, as in no possible problems, should get around 23 to 25 in mixed driving. i assume mixed means 50% city
You sure its sledged? Buildup in the oil cap and buildup elsewhere are two different problems. $500 sounds cheap to pull the engine and replace the seal.
But, your Camry is on the fence. If you could find a replacement 3rd Gen, I'd go for it.
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i love my 1992 Toyota Camry LE 2.2L 5S-FE - 73K
9005 NIGHT GUIDE LOW BEAMS|FOG LAMPS|PIONEER HU&AUDIO|KEYLESS ENTRY 1995 Acura Legend LS KA7 3.2L C32A - 87K
SADLY, SHE HAS MUCH MORE MODS...
I'd fix it. $500 isn't too bad - unless of course you have some cash saved up to put toward another car already.
Quote:
Originally Posted by llcoolpass
you make me feel good but i have feeling its your engine's fault or something else as well, aobut my fuel economy of 19mpg. you get 10% more, and you do mixed driving. i only do little short trips 4 miles every couple days, thts it, hardly that great for economy and my car heavier, and i got the somewhat thirst toyota v6 known as 3vz-fe [compared to 1mzfe which is more miserly]....
My mom's gen 3.5 with the 1MZ gets 13-15 MPG in all city driving with short trips. I've switched it to synthetic/semi-syn but it hasn't made much of a difference in fuel economy, though the car is a little quieter and smoother. On the bright side, I've averaged close to 30 MPG on the highway with it so I know the motor is fine.
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'05 2AZ-FE @ 47K miles | '95 1MZ-FE @ 92K miles moving forward
I guess I'll do it then. I don't know how to investigate the sludge issue, I don't trust myself with removing the valve cover or anything.
How's your dipstick? Is there varnish on it?
As far as the valve cover, I don't think it's too hard. But you'll probably want to get a new valve cover gasket from the dealer and replace that when you put it back on. That might just be me though, not sure if everyone would do that.
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'05 2AZ-FE @ 47K miles | '95 1MZ-FE @ 92K miles moving forward
What are some things I should replace while the engine is pulled? Both motor mounts would probably be a good idea since the engine shakes slightly when in gear, right?
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1996 Toyota Camry | 4 Cyl. 2.2L | Black Paint with Tan Interior | All Stock | DEAD at 155k. Broken Crankshaft/Main Bearing
What kind of car can you get for $500 in our area? Probably not as good as the one you have now since you said:
"4. Car drives perfect
5. Exterior and in pretty great condition".
If you are concerned about sludge (the sludge under the oil cap can just be from short trip driving, especially if it is tan in color) pay the mechanic to remove the cam cover first (probably about 1/2 hour in labor and the cost of the new cam cover) to check for sludge. He'll probably find that it's not too bad and you will sleep a lot better about then spending the $500. It was the later generation 5SFE engines (1997-2001) that had the sludge problem.
Is your car manual or auto? Cause i would replace the clutch "while you're in there". But if its auto then forget about it.
I didnt know you had to pull the engine for a rear main seal? Sucks big time. Mine is leaking, but barely. i'm waiting till it either blows completely or the clutch goes. then replace both at once.
Pulling an engine is pretty easy, remove the hood, unbolt the engine(Alt, PS pump, A/C comp, mounts, bell housing bolts, torque converter bolts, all hoses, and wiring) and hook up your crane.
Last edited by Kenny_McCormic; 12-24-2009 at 02:58 PM.
I'd do it. As everyone has said just because the oil cap has buildup on it that doesn't mean the engine is sludged. $500 is a good price, and if that mechanic knows what he's doing he won't even have to pull the engine. With proper shop equipment you can lower the subframe and disconnect the tranny, move it slightly and change the rear main. Don't even have to drain the oil or disturb the cooling system.
If you do decide to do it just ask how much it would take to have him pull the valve cover gasket and see how bad it is in there. Recently i checked the whole top end of my gf's old camry by pulling the valve cover, checking all the oil passages I could see, looking for abnormal cam wear, then throwing it all together and doing a compression test. If your mechanic can do that and steth the engine to make sure there's no bottom end noises or metal shavings in the oil pan you should be worry-free as far as the motor. And again as other folks have pointed out $500 will not buy a very good car.
let us know what you end up doing!
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'96 4cyl 5spd Camry
147k miles and running out of things to fix...
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