3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I've gotten pretty far along into my swap here. But now I'm stuck. I can't figure out how to switch the pedals over. I unbolted the clutch from the inside, but I don't know how it comes out. And I don't know how to install the clutch pedal into the automatic car.
I know a few of you guys here have done this swap and was wondering if you could steer me in the right direction.
If I remember correctly there should be a mounting point to the left (if sitting in the driver's seat) of the brake booster for the master cylinder to mount. Did you get just the clutch pedal or the complete pedal assembly? You may have to swap out the complete set instead of just the single pedal swap.
What I am saying is there might not be a spot for just the pedal itself to mount onto the AT assembly.
Last edited by PortugalFocus; 12-24-2009 at 05:57 PM.
I'll see if my Corolla manual swap experience here can help you.
A clutch pedal assembly have 4 mounting points - 2 to clutch master cylinder, one to dashboard cross brace on top, and one to firewall on bottom. On the auto car there would be heavy insulation there, with a cutout that you need to knock out for the clutch master cylinder to clear. Another similar knockout exposes the firewall mount. An auto Corolla doesn't have these two mounts so on my Corolla it's just held on by the two master cylinder bolts on both sides of the firewall. I'm pretty sure my auto Camry have the cross brace stud. Not sure about the other.
Also you have to cut 3 holes on the firewall for the master cylinder to clear, but there should be a perfect template right there. All items above are all conveniently located in the same area - near where the brake pedal is.
Remember to switch the brake pedal over too.
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Little Pig - 1999 Corolla LE - Manual Swap - 2001 front end - #138 @ CASC-OR Autoslalom 2012
Big Pig - 1997 Camry LE - need new tires, rear struts and alignment
Skinny Pig - 2010 devinci St-Tropez
I saw the really thick foam you're talking about. Do I just need to pull some of the back to find the clutch punch outs? I pulled a foam piece that was pre cut out, but there wasn't anything to punch out from behind it.
I know that made no sense.
But my main question is just how to get the holes in the auto body.
why? and just look at how it was done in the running car.
Why what?
I see how it all works, the problem is the auto car doesn't have the hole for the clutch pedal and I need to know how to make it/if there's a punch out for it/how to get to it because it's conveniently located behind the strut tower.
I saw the really thick foam you're talking about. Do I just need to pull some of the back to find the clutch punch outs? I pulled a foam piece that was pre cut out, but there wasn't anything to punch out from behind it.
I know that made no sense.
But my main question is just how to get the holes in the auto body.
The thick foam you pulled out is the punch out I mentioned. Feel around that hole for some shape on metal that looks like how the clutch holes would be cut. To actually cut that you have to either use a drill adapter like Orbital, or a 90-degree drill, or totally remove the dashboard (which may be the best way to go if you can have the cars down for extended period of time), and a bi-metal hole saw, something like 29mm to 32mm. A centre punch definitely helps. Holes for the stud can be done with a step bit. Use a caliper on your parts to find out how large they should be.
__________________
Little Pig - 1999 Corolla LE - Manual Swap - 2001 front end - #138 @ CASC-OR Autoslalom 2012
Big Pig - 1997 Camry LE - need new tires, rear struts and alignment
Skinny Pig - 2010 devinci St-Tropez
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(which may be the best way to go if you can have the cars down for extended period of time), and a bi-metal hole saw, something like 29mm to 32mm. A centre punch definitely helps. Holes for the stud can be done with a step bit. Use a caliper on your parts to find out how large they should be.
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