3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
97' Camry. The car when trying to start makes this really loud-fast clicking noise and nothing happens. I know I need to replace the battery soon. Tried to jump it, same thing. Loud fast clicking noise from the starter.
We're wondering if the battery cables could be bad?
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1997 Camry LE, i-4, auto, KYB GR-2 and mounts in the front
Not getting enough juice to the battery. Either the cables are corroded or you have a bad connection somewhere. I'd remove the terminals and clean them really well where they contact the battery and where your jump cables contact the terminal ends. Then try jumping it again. If you see a large amount of corrosion on the cable itself running down under the insulation you may need to replace the battery cables on the car.
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'96 4cyl 5spd Camry
147k miles and running out of things to fix...
The way those cables get connected, you wnt to remove the ENDS that fit on the battery, from the cabless.
Now clean up the ends -- steel wool + vinegar, then rinse, then re-connect tightly
Also you may need to keep the connection on the battery for a few minutes
((3-5 minutes) before you even TRY to crank the engine..
Gives the old battery a little time to get a charge.
BTW.. don't let them sell you Mr. Super Battery - a battery with a somewhat higher rating than the original is more than good enough.
You just don't NEED 900 Cold-Cranking Amps, unless you're living ina a VERY cold State.
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One Tequila, Two Tequila,Three Tequila...Floor
.Gen 3 - 2005 Touring Black on Black
.2nd Toy: BMW 328ic Convertible
Actually, I've experienced the same problem. My Camry wouldn't start my wife's after she left the lights on. (Just the fast clicking) AAA came out and it started right up. He claimed it was because many cars simply don't produce the amps needed to jump another car if the battery is really run down. His heavy-duty alternator did the job. Leaving the donor car running with a somewhat revved up engine for a while sometimes builds up enough juice to get the job done. Really good, tight connections using large enough cables is important too.
Actually, I've experienced the same problem. My Camry wouldn't start my wife's after she left the lights on. (Just the fast clicking) AAA came out and it started right up. He claimed it was because many cars simply don't produce the amps needed to jump another car if the battery is really run down. His heavy-duty alternator did the job. Leaving the donor car running with a somewhat revved up engine for a while sometimes builds up enough juice to get the job done. Really good, tight connections using large enough cables is important too.
+1 on the large cables! Get a six or four gauge cable.
Actually, I've experienced the same problem. My Camry wouldn't start my wife's after she left the lights on. (Just the fast clicking) AAA came out and it started right up. He claimed it was because many cars simply don't produce the amps needed to jump another car if the battery is really run down. His heavy-duty alternator did the job. Leaving the donor car running with a somewhat revved up engine for a while sometimes builds up enough juice to get the job done. Really good, tight connections using large enough cables is important too.
^
I agree with this observation, but if the car still won't start even after a more powerful jump then you need to look at the connections to the battery and/or battery cables. Start with the simplest reasons and work your way up from there.
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2008 Highlander Base 4WD
2002 Avalon XL
1987 Suzuki Samurai 4X4 - Treading where no Jeep can follow....
multiple rapid clicking nosies = corrosion, most likely where the battery terminal ends clamp on to the battery posts. Clean both the male and female ends as has been suggested above and try to start the car.
Exact same problem for about 3 weeks. I knew it's not the battery because I charged it up a few times with the battery charger. I even had the high beam turned on but all I heard was a single click and the light wasn't even dimming at all. Today, my mechanic repaired the solenoid. Total price paid: $250.
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