oil pump leak

[KamryKruizer]

merry xmas

ive been chasing an oil leak in my 94 5sfe , oil has been dripping onto exhaust and causing smoke, noticable when turning car off or when sitting idling.

ive replaced the rocker cover gasket, dizzy "O" ring , cam,crank seals and oil pump seal and gasket.

this has slowed it down from a puddle and a smoke screen to a few drops on the ground yet it still leaks, the smoke seems to have gone.

i did notice that the oil pump rotor shaft had grooves in it where seal sits when i replaced it so i am thinking i might need to replace the oil pump shaft

can the oil pump shaft/rotor be purchased or does the whole oil pump come as a complete unit and anyone know what sort of $$$ we are talking

everythings shut here for xmas so i cannot phone a "friend" at the local spare parts joint

thanks

KK

[96paseo]

Before I replaced my dizzy o-ring and valve cover gasket, oil was leaking down the back of the block under the intake manifold and getting on the flex pipe making a nice smell. Does your oil pan leak? Can't think of much else it could be since you did all the major seals and gaskets already. Maybe a rear main leak but that would be major PIA.

[Kenny_McCormic]

Rear main wouldn't get on the exhaust, must be oil pump related or possibly a blown head gasket(not sure if this is possible on the 5S-FE).

[bcp477]

Very possible that it is the valve cover gasket.....with oil running down the back of the block and dripping onto the exhaust. The exhaust is on the other end of the engine from the oil pump/ crankshaft seal, etc area....so it is probably not that. Because the engine is tilted back in the engine bay, it is nearly impossible to see the back side of the block (except from underneath). I had the same problem recently, with my 97 (5sfe).....and I could have sworn it was leaking at the oil pump/ crank seal end of the engine (I also had oil getting on the exhaust....and a strong burned oil smell). I was all set to replace the timing belt (20,000 miles early)...and all of the seals in that area. However, I happened to replace the valve cover gasket first..... after which the problem absolutely disappeared. A subsequent removal of the timing belt covers and check for leaking oil in that area proved that there were no leaks there. You've already replaced all of the seals in that area....so, I'd doubt that your continuing leak is from that part of the engine.

If I were you, I'd replace the VC gasket first....it might just make the issue go away.

As for the oil pump shaft/ rotor..... you'll have to purchase a complete oil pump. That piece is not sold seperately, to my knowledge. As for oil pump cost, I think it is in the range of $160 - 180, retail.

Whoops ! I just re-read your post and realised that you ALREADY replaced the VC gasket ("rocker cover gasket"). My mistake. However, I would still check the VC gasket, especially the spark plug tube nuts which secure it. I have found that the nuts will loosen, after the initial torquing.....and must be re-torqued, after a short time. They don't seem to loosen after that, however.

[KamryKruizer]

thanks for the input fellas

yes i have replaced the RC gasket but i didnt have a torque wrench at the time so i just done them up as tight as i thought would be needed (pretty tight two turns once tight and a grunt lol) . upon re-checking today the 4 RC bolts (30mm) all could be turned down another complete turn or so, all the heating cooling cycles mustve loosened them off or i didnt torque correctly 1st off...........ive done them up today to correct torque and i will see if the leak stops now after i wash engine......yet again.

i remember reading somewhere that if a RC gasket leaks all the tightening in the world wont help as the oil wears a channel or the gasket gets knackered? is that correct?......should i just put another new one on to make sure? this leak whilst nearly fixed has been a pain for a few months now.

oh and its not the oil pan tranny pan or rear main either, pans have been resealed and rear main has been checked..............all up that cost me $842

thanks

[Taylon]

did you use sealant where necessary to hold the gaskets in place? it's quite possible one of them moved upon retightening...particularly common with the oil pump gasket

[bcp477]

No need to replace the valve cover gasket unless you do determine that it is leaking....after the re-torque. Just a thought, but there are 8 locations (4 at each end) at which it is recommended to use a dab of sealant....when replacing the VC gasket. Did you use sealant there ? If not, these areas are prone to leaks, even with a new VC gasket.

[KamryKruizer]

Originally Posted by bcp477

No need to replace the valve cover gasket unless you do determine that it is leaking....after the re-torque. Just a thought, but there are 8 locations (4 at each end) at which it is recommended to use a dab of sealant....when replacing the VC gasket. Did you use sealant there ? If not, these areas are prone to leaks, even with a new VC gasket.

no i didnt use any sealant originally, just a dry fit.

where are these 8 points i need to apply some sealant and what type of sealant do i use.

upon rewashing the motor and climbing underneath again afer a few klms it is apparent that the leak is coming from up high, so i will just replace the gasket again and use sealant on the 8 points mentioned as soon as i know where these 8 points are

thanks

[KamryKruizer]

never mind about last question i found the answer thru google

in the chilton and haynes manual it says to use drops of figp at the half moons AND the corners..so 8 points all together




hope it helps someone else and stops my leak once and for all

KK

[toyomoho]

If doing a valve cover gasket, re-torque until the torque requirement stabilizes. Over time the nuts may need to be re-torqued again.

[bcp477]

Ah yes. In the shop manual(s) it says NEVER jack under the oil pan...... obviously, this is the reason.