Left rear strut/mount creaks?

[haux]

When I go over harsh or large bumps, and the car takes a pretty heavy thump down, the left rear strut or mount creaks. Maybe it's even the spring. Not sure, but it comes through very clearly where that mount is.

Everything is new. Tokico struts, KYB mounts, Eibach springs, and rubbers. Reused the original "collar" for the top strut nut.

Is this common, or may that corner not have been assembled correctly?

[JohnGD]

I assume by now that the mounting bolts (x3) were torqued to 29 lb/ft? Because if they are loose it's one reason for squeaks.

Originally Posted by haux

When I go over harsh or large bumps, and the car takes a pretty heavy thump down, the left rear strut or mount creaks. Maybe it's even the spring. Not sure, but it comes through very clearly where that mount is.

Everything is new. Tokico struts, KYB mounts, Eibach springs, and rubbers. Reused the original "collar" for the top strut nut.

Is this common, or may that corner not have been assembled correctly?

[haux]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

I assume by now that the mounting bolts (x3) were torqued to 29 lb/ft? Because if they are loose it's one reason for squeaks.

You know what happens when you assume.

I'll torque them tomorrow.

[JohnGD]

hee hee hee. I know, I know. But I was afraid to ask.

The nuts that come with the new mount should be self locking. They may have a plastic ring on the inside thread (like your Raybestos ball joint), a softer metal nut on Hondas, or a slightly-crimped nut (like with Monroe mounts). Self-locking nuts are considered use-once only.

Some people use Threadlocker Blue with the metal nuts. A lazy way is just a drop of Threadlocker Green after your torqued them. BTW, Threadlockers are not for plastic, and Red is recommended for shock absorbers, but they can cause problems in removing because they're more like "permanent".

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...eadlockers.htm

Originally Posted by haux

You know what happens when you assume.

I'll torque them tomorrow.

[haux]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

hee hee hee. I know, I know. But I was afraid to ask.

The nuts that come with the new mount should be self locking. They may have a plastic ring on the inside thread (like your Raybestos ball joint), a softer metal nut on Hondas, or a slightly-crimped nut (like with Monroe mounts). Self-locking nuts are considered use-once only.

Some people use Threadlocker Blue with the metal nuts. A lazy way is just a drop of Threadlocker Green after your torqued them. BTW, Threadlockers are not for plastic, and Red is recommended for shock absorbers, but they can cause problems in removing because they're more like "permanent".

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...eadlockers.htm

Do you recommend I use the blue? Chances are that I will be removing them sometime in the future.

The nuts that came with the mounts are not locking. They're regular metal nuts. In fact, I don't like them. I like the longer original nuts more.

A couple of the original nuts were damaged during initial removal when my dad used the wrong sized socket. So, I ordered 6 new original nuts. When they arrived, I broke that one stud after trying to torque it to 59 ft/lbs.

By the way, I will not be replacing that mount. There is enough stud left (using one of the short nuts that came with the mounts) for the nut to hold onto. If I experience any trouble with that on the road, you win, and I will send you a $100 bill in the mail! I really just don't want to deal with all the work involved in taking it all down again.

So basically, other than that broken stud w/ short nut, I'm using 5 new OEM nuts for those mounts.

[JohnGD]

Sure go with Permatex Blue.

Yeah, I know what you mean about all the work using the spring compressor and stuff. So threadlock that one especially.

So with the car on the ground (not on jack stands), just loosen and then retorque the rear mounting nuts to 29 lb/ft.

Originally Posted by haux

Do you recommend I use the blue? Chances are that I will be removing them sometime in the future.

The nuts that came with the mounts are not locking. They're regular metal nuts. In fact, I don't like them. I like the longer original nuts more.

A couple of the original nuts were damaged during initial removal when my dad used the wrong sized socket. So, I ordered 6 new original nuts. When they arrived, I broke that one stud after trying to torque it to 59 ft/lbs.

By the way, I will not be replacing that mount. There is enough stud left (using one of the short nuts that came with the mounts) for the nut to hold onto. If I experience any trouble with that on the road, you win, and I will send you a $100 bill in the mail! I really just don't want to deal with all the work involved in taking it all down again.

So basically, other than that broken stud w/ short nut, I'm using 5 new OEM nuts for those mounts.

[haux]

Applied permatex blue to lower half of studs. Torqued nuts to 29ft/lbs. Creaking continues. Not a huge deal... I'm sure the sound won't be as loud when the interior is put back in.

I'll check the top strut nuts next chance I get.

[JohnGD]

So only one side squeaks? Not the other?

Check the number of visible threads above the strut rod nut. Are both sides the same count? The reason is maybe the strut rod's cutout isn't seated in the mount.

The bottom of the spring is seated against the stop in the lower spring seat?

Have someone ride in the back and use a mechanic's stethoscope, a segment of garden hose, or a screwdriver tip against the mount (ear against the handle, be careful while the car's moving). See if the location can be further identified.

The mount and spring seat insulators are new, so they're probably not the problem. There is also a chance that it's passing noises from below (stabilizer bar area)?

Originally Posted by haux

Applied permatex blue to lower half of studs. Torqued nuts to 29ft/lbs. Creaking continues. Not a huge deal... I'm sure the sound won't be as loud when the interior is put back in.

I'll check the top strut nuts next chance I get.

[Chris Crash]

I would assume the mounts, as those were not changed. Front strut mounts have a tendency to knock when not chnaged with new struts.

[haux]

Originally Posted by Chris Crash

I would assume the mounts, as those were not changed. Front strut mounts have a tendency to knock when not chnaged with new struts.

The noise is coming from the rear. Sounds like rear LEFT, in fact. All four mounts were replaced with new KYB. ...basically, the ENTIRE suspension is new.

I have not checked the top strut nuts yet. I need to make sure they're torqued properly, and compare the number of visible threads like JohnGD suggested.

[JohnGD]

Do try to identify the source of the noise with a helper.

[haux]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Do try to identify the source of the noise with a helper.

Yeah, I only wish I had my rear seats in right now, hehe. Will be quite uncomfortable for a backseat passenger!

I'll probably have my brother drive while I bounce around in the back and get a screwdriver shoved through my cranium.

[Chris Crash]

what I meant was that since the front mounts fail so often after replacing struts, maybe the backs would too?

And the back seat without the bench itself is actually not too uncomfortable. There's a dip in the body made especially for your ass

[haux]

Originally Posted by Chris Crash

what I meant was that since the front mounts fail so often after replacing struts, maybe the backs would too?

And the back seat without the bench itself is actually not too uncomfortable. There's a dip in the body made especially for your ass

When I told the Toyota parts guy that I went with KYB mounts all around, he said I should have went with OEM for the fronts, specifying that the rears were the same as OE. *shrug*

[haux]

The creaking wasn't present today...

Don't know what to say. Maybe it takes a while to break these things in?