3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I've had this car for 210k miles and the car is in really great shape. New struts and rubber all around, no scratches, dents, or dings. My oil light came on last week and I started hearing some knocking. Rod bearing. Yay. Found metal shavings in my oil filter. After pulling spark from each cylinder, looks like its coming from cylinder #1. I want to keep this car, as it is my only FWD vehicle and my RWD cars don't do so well in Iowa winters.
My problem starts with how much a used 5SFE engine costs and how many miles are on them. Jeesh. $1300 for a 100k mile engine? No offense, but I'm not terribly excited about doing that (I used car-part.com as my source... my favorite bone yard search tool). I'm wondering if you all could give me your opinion on what I should do.
1) buy a used engine from a junk yard for about $1300.
2) rebuild my bad engine myself, hoping that everything can be machined and I can get new parts (do you guys have a favorite supplier?)
3) buy a short block somewhere and piece together an engine that way (again, any known/trusted suppliers?)
Any and all input would be greatly appreciated. I've spent my days mainly working with Chevys. This is a new area for me.
Look at your local craigslist for engines. $1300 for 100 K miles is insane. I just sold a 5SFE for $300 with 160K. Granted it needed bearing but that's not a hard job.
Anyway. Get rid of your third idea. It would be fun at the beginning, but then it would just get painstaking. And really expensive.
Rebuilding the engine COULD be a viable option, depending on how badly you damaged it..
Replacing the 5SFE is a very easy job. As long as you're keeping your transmission, you shouldn't run into trouble. All that you have to do, really, is:
Remove the hood
Remove the axles
Remove airbox
Remove battery
Unbolt the mounts
Pull the wiring harness
Take out radiator
Unhook header and downpipe
Unhook various hoses
Remove the power steering pump
Pull A/C to the side
...
That's it really. Then just pull it out.
Some people like to drop the sub-frame, but I thought taking it from the top sounded a lot easier. I don't know why you would want to drop it... Sounds like more work.
You could probably sell your old engine for a few hundred bucks. Someone will be willing to put the work into it for a low enough price!
advice from someone who had this same problem 3 times...
if you do end up getting a used one have the rod bearings redone and do a compression test before you buy it
i bought one for 800 bucks with a 30 day warranted on day 28 a rod shot through the oil pan i got another one for free free install everything a month later the oil light came on and it started knocking
but at the least replace the rod bearings
__________________
MAY AN EMPTY PARTS BOX BE MY WINNING TROPHY
It's easier to take the transmission and engine out at the same time when removing the engine. On the automatic there's a mount, a few wires and a shift cable. On the manual, there's a mount and 2 shift cables.
If you need to service the transmission, you can remove it by itself. You'll need to remove it from below by dropping the subframe.
The automatic is extremely heavy. The manual, if you're strong enough, can be picked up by itself.
Either way, I would recommend an engine hoist to do the work for you.
i pull the engine only without pulling the trans, i have found thats the easy way for me to do it.That way you don't have to mess with your trans,,just pull the pass. wheel and remove the front pulley and the engine mount bracket by the timing belt and put a block under the trans and the engine comes right up out of there,,hope that helps
advice from someone who had this same problem 3 times...
if you do end up getting a used one have the rod bearings redone and do a compression test before you buy it
i bought one for 800 bucks with a 30 day warranted on day 28 a rod shot through the oil pan i got another one for free free install everything a month later the oil light came on and it started knocking
but at the least replace the rod bearings
This is exactly what I'm worried about. I live in Iowa, and as hard as this may be to believe, this isn't really the land of 5SFE abundance. Advice about not wasting my time with a short block is very helpful. I will continue searching for cheap engines ($800 even sounds high to me with more than 100k). At least I know with my car I changed oil in a very timely manner, had my timing belt replaced when specified, and I've never had a head problem. I think I'm much more for the idea of trying to rebuild what I have, as I know that my engine was treated properly.
Do you guys have a trusted supplier for new pistons, rods, and bearings?
Thanks.
Pulling the engine through the hood is definitely the way I would go, transmission and all. I've learned my lesson on FWD transverse engines. Pull it all, save all kinds of time.
You guys have any tricks on pulling the passenger side axle? If I remember correctly, I had a heck of a time pulling it on like an 01 solara - it has a bracket/extender bolted to the engine that I could never get the axle out of. Ended up ruining the whole deal and buying a new one - bracket and all - from a junk yard.
If you do rebuild the engine, the machine shop may have a recommended parts supplier they do business with. Sometimes they can purchase a kit that has all the rebuild part required and sell it to you at a reasonable price.
Not all axles are hard to pull out. The trick appears to be a large hammer and pry bar.
This is exactly what I'm worried about. I live in Iowa, and as hard as this may be to believe, this isn't really the land of 5SFE abundance. Advice about not wasting my time with a short block is very helpful. I will continue searching for cheap engines ($800 even sounds high to me with more than 100k). At least I know with my car I changed oil in a very timely manner, had my timing belt replaced when specified, and I've never had a head problem. I think I'm much more for the idea of trying to rebuild what I have, as I know that my engine was treated properly.
Do you guys have a trusted supplier for new pistons, rods, and bearings?
Thanks.
Pulling the engine through the hood is definitely the way I would go, transmission and all. I've learned my lesson on FWD transverse engines. Pull it all, save all kinds of time.
You guys have any tricks on pulling the passenger side axle? If I remember correctly, I had a heck of a time pulling it on like an 01 solara - it has a bracket/extender bolted to the engine that I could never get the axle out of. Ended up ruining the whole deal and buying a new one - bracket and all - from a junk yard.
Well, not sure how often people check this, but I completed the job. After pulling the engine, it looked amazing for the miles. I had a rod bearing from cylinder 4 (closest to the timing belt) give out. It didn't spin or anything, so the rods themselves were golden.
Spent $1400 at the machine shop, $500 of that was for the rebuild kit that didn't even include a new tensioner, idler pulley, or water pump.
Took me a day to pull the engine and sort parts, about 3 weeks at the machine shop, then the fun stuff - 4 hours to setup the short block, about 10 hours to put the rest together and drop it in, 4 more hours to wire it all back up in the car and shazam!
Most difficult part for me, by far, was the head. The damn head bolts are under the cams. Followed the instructions from the 5SFE manual and all went well
Started right up, but I had a strange sound from the timing assembly. Found out it was a loose belt, but got that fixed and she's purring like new. Only two things concern me now (after about 50 miles less thank 4kRPM): when the engine is warm, I swear I smell oil. Also my idle is a little rough. Nothing that would kill the engine, just enough to shake the steering wheel a little.
If anyone would like to see my powerpoint presentation, let me know and I'll email it to you!
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to erikj17 For This Useful Post:
No way a junkyard engine costs $1300. $300 is expensive. I'd go with a "remanufactured" engine if all else is a keeper. Machine shop isn't going to save you much over that and you're not likely to get 3-year/100K miles warranty.
If you want to pull the transmission, some like to pull both the engine and trans from top, instead of dropping the subframe.
If you want to pull the engine, separate it and pull it from top. Careful the torque converter doesn't fall out. Make sure it sits cozy in the bell housing.
Before you spend to machine the parts, check prices on rockauto with Marshall Engines or call Jasper engines. 3-year, 100K miles warranty on their engines, as with all good remans. Rockauto shows Marshall $2242+350 core (you pay $2500 then get the core $350 back if it's still in machinable shape, if it's badly damaged, then you're out $350). And also check out the cost of all gaskets and bearings and decide for yourself.
Maybe still an oil/vacuum leak somewhere. How were the engine mounts. Doesn't look like they were replaced from the nice presentation.
How were the bearing oil clearances? These were one-size kits, not select fit? Curious what brand of bearings and pistons rings they gave you?
Quote:
Originally Posted by erikj17
Started right up, but I had a strange sound from the timing assembly. Found out it was a loose belt, but got that fixed and she's purring like new. Only two things concern me now (after about 50 miles less thank 4kRPM): when the engine is warm, I swear I smell oil. Also my idle is a little rough. Nothing that would kill the engine, just enough to shake the steering wheel a little.
You guys have any tricks on pulling the passenger side axle? If I remember correctly, I had a heck of a time pulling it on like an 01 solara - it has a bracket/extender bolted to the engine that I could never get the axle out of. Ended up ruining the whole deal and buying a new one - bracket and all - from a junk yard.
Are you talking about the equalizer shaft with the support bearing on the block?
TIP: As said above, they have a retainer spring. The trick is to pull some moderate force (but not enough to yank the boot over the joint) and use two prybars on nearly opposite sides, then shove both the bars at once popping the clip free. They stick from using a single bar on one side and they bind/**** sideways remaining stuck. Get two in there and they fly out and land in the neighbors yard.
As for the engine, look for a rebuild kit, with rods, mains, rings and gasket seal set. Price the machine work and new piston, pins, oil pump, water pump. It'll add up fast. Call the machine shop and get a quote. I've found you hardly ever get your money back on this deal. You consider a used or crashed car?
__________________
95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
