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Old 01-08-2010, 10:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation 5S-FE won't start

hey all,

I changed the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires so that's not the problem.

Basically heres the senerio, Car was sitting in 24 degree weather for 9 hours. Went to start it on the first try it cranked, but chunked out and never started, tried a second time, then same thing sputtered, and never started. After the 2nd time, it just cranked and cranked and cranked. I could smell the gas and hear the fuel pump. It's like its not getting spark, and it floods or something.

It was cranking and cranking even with the accelerator to the floor which should have cut off the fuel. I'm really lost, as to what the problem could be.

It did this to me earlier in the week, but I was able to get it started after continuing to crank it with the pedal to the floor. It didn't wanna start, and a plume of white smoke emitted from the exhaust. When I changed the spark plugs and wires before cap, and rotor, it started fine.

Keep in mind, I'm experiencing a miss occasionally at idle when in gear.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I am truly lost as to what the issue could be.

thanks in advance for your help
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd say roll start it, but only the CE ever had a 5 speed...
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Old 01-09-2010, 01:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Throttle full open cuts off fuel? First I've heard of that one.

Did you actually test for no-spark (i.e., pop out one of the spark plug leads, attach it to a spare plug, ground the outside of the plug, and check for a nice blue spark)?

You may also want to check the coolant sensor -- it may be reading too warm, and not allowing the fuel mix to richen enough for a reliable cold start. In that case, I'd expect that opening the throttle hard would actually make the problem worse, since you're allowing even more air into the mix.

See www.camrystuff.com , Generation 3, 5S-FE section for the section on checking the ECT (follow the top coolant hose from the radiator back to the engine, the ECT is the sensor with the green connector on it).
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Old 01-09-2010, 01:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks for the replies. I went to start it this morning when it was super cold out, and it started fine. Drove it to the auto store got some deep creep and it started fine again. I'm going to clean the IAC and the throttle body to see if this does anything.

Thanks,
Adam


I did not test for a no-spark, also I know when you hold the throttle down to the floor in an injected car, it shuts off the injectors.
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
How hard could it be?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97vulcan View Post
...also I know when you hold the throttle down to the floor in an injected car, it shuts off the injectors.
Yeah, that's the rev limiter. In park/neutral the computer will keep the engine from going beyond a set RPM buy cutting fuel.
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, that's the rev limiter. In park/neutral the computer will keep the engine from going beyond a set RPM buy cutting fuel.
I mean when the engine is off, and your trying to start it. It cuts off the injectors.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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so the car is starting ok, albeit it does sometimes start rough when it's cold. I don't seem to have a surging idle issue when the car is cold, it happens when it's warm, and it's spiratic when it surges. I can't feel it surging when it's in P or N.

I don't believe spark is an issue, it evens smells a bit rich under the hood at startup, however I'm not sure of that entirely.

I'm still stuck here guys...I used Deep Creep and cleaned out the TB, and IAC. Didn't do anything regarding my surging issue.

Thanks
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Could be a TPS or/and an ignitor problem?
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Could be a TPS or/and an ignitor problem?
how/whats the best way to troubleshoot these two components?
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I think you should be able to test both with a multimeter...
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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so again this evening the car didn't start. I pushed the throttle just a touch, went to start it, and it just cranked with no hint of starting. Let the starter rest and tried again, and again and again. It finally started after trying off and on for 5 minutes. It didn't want to start, and was sputtering. I had to give it RPMS for a few seconds then it was fine.

again on the surging idle...still happening. Also unplugged the TPS this evening while the car was idling in park, the RPM's went up past 1000. Does this mean my TPS is working correctly?? I don't believe it's my ECT sensor as it will start 4 days in a row when it's cold out, and sometimes it won't.

if I unplug the ECT green sensor, will this do anything?

Thanks again!
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I believe my igniter is working correctly as when cranking my car, the tach lifted a bit. also once it's running, its fine except at idle in gear.
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

changed the fuel filter, and the car is still missing at idle. It's a random miss. Sometimes it does it right after another, while other times it doesn't surge until it's been at idle for a few minutes in gear. It's really starting to piss me off, as it seems to run fine, and idle ok when not in gear. I can't hear any vacuum leaks, nor is there a SES light.

I cleaned the TB and the IAC already.

I can't believe that no one else has had an issue like this, and not being able to solve it.

I don't want to replace the ignitor or distributor, but could these be causing my issue?!?!?

thanks!
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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so the car has started everyday since I changed the fuel filter. It was about 32 out today, and the car wasn't surging at idle as much as it has. However tonight when it was about 20, it was missing more at idle.

It's almost like the temperature dictates how it idles. Does this rule out anything? or bring something else to light?

Thanks
Adam
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:40 AM   #15 (permalink)
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It still sounds like the ECT.

Jay in MA
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