5S-FE Valve cover sealant and torque?

[gladis]

Hey all, So last time we had an oil change our mechanic noticed the car was leaking oil on the rear left of the engine (looking from front) and wanted to charge me $1xx to fix it. Now that it's vacation time I'm getting around to do it. Before I get started though, I have 2(3) main questions:

1. I need to get RTV sealant, I've read that most people use Ultra Grey from permatex... but the Black is "oil resistant", aside from OEM, which one should I be using (Grey, black, something else?)

2. I keep getting two very different numbers for the torque, either 17 or 33 ft-lbs... the service manual I have (thanks to TN) says 17... while others have quoted 33... which one's right???

3. Finally, I'm gonna be getting something from Felpro unless OEM is drastically cheaper, how much is the VCG from Toyota?

[Chris Crash]

1. I used the red permatex. The oil-free one sounds good too.
2. 17 ft-lbs.
3. I believe OEM was cheaper...I think it was around ten bucks.

[ghettosled]

i second the red permatex. mine has been holding strong for years.

17 foot pounds as well. tighten each nut progressively instead of each one all at once. re-check the next day as well.

i sprung for an OEM gasket and its been holding like a dam. i dont think there would be enough cost savings to justify taking a chance on non-OEM


so, im basically retyping what chris crash said...

[Mike Gerber]

17 ft lbs is correct. Incidently those big nuts should have a 30MM hex. Not certain but I think the 33 ft lbs is for reinstalling the spark plug tubes back in to the cylinder head.

Mike

[frenum49]

I like to put a drop or two of locktite on the valve cover nut threads.

[rty]

I used a Felpro gasket on my V6. I think it's good. It was made in Japan.

[haux]

I think someone mentioned in another thread that Felpro sometimes reboxes OEM? ...and then likely charges more for it.

[flyeri]

Originally Posted by haux

I think someone mentioned in another thread that Felpro sometimes reboxes OEM? ...and then likely charges more for it.

That seems unlikely in that FelPro is a manufacturer of gaskets and Toyota is not. Why FelPro is higher I cannot explain. Anyway the red "High Temp" is probably the best choice for RTV. You just need it in the corners and where the gasket turns to go up over the cam.

[hooRAH]

BTw, 34 will crack the cover, so don't try it.

[Hajoca]

Black RTV -103 by GE or whoever makes it now is a very soft, high elongation silicone rubber. It is best for sharp corners where there is alot of movement in between two parts. Also great for sealing the half circle, where distributor drive used to be, and other metal inserts.

Grey set up very stiff, and is used as gasket maker (i.e. no rubber/cork/paper).

[toyomoho]

Have been using 17 ft-lbs.

Suggest you continue to torque the nuts until the torque value stabilizes. The new gaskets will compress and relax lowering the torque value.

[gladis]

Well I wound up going to a dealer and getting an OEM one, $14 v $22 for a Felpro, just got some Permatex red too. Thing is I just realized I dont have a 30mm socket (huge!) anyone know where i might get one cheap? Usually they're much cheaper in a set, but it seems like normal sets dont go up to 30mm

In addition, while I have a torque wrench with me, I want to undo the front wheel nuts to inspect my rotors and my exhaust heat shield. No torque is specified in my manual, do I just tighten til it's snug? Also, what's the wheel nut torque? Thanks for all the answers!

btw, went by Kragen today and saw they had a whole host of different gasket makers many of them citing OEM quality and valve cover as an application. I got the red since a couple people here use it, but there was a "Ultra copper" that is even higher temp than the red and advises you not to retorque it. The ultra black is claims oil resistance and 500F temp, and the ultra grey, which lists a toyota part (not the FIPG in the manual, but I suspect the FIPF) as a OEM replacement.

Is the red best for this application?

[hill8570]

Originally Posted by gladis

Thing is I just realized I dont have a 30mm socket (huge!) anyone know where i might get one cheap? Usually they're much cheaper in a set, but it seems like normal sets dont go up to 30mm

The corner auto parts stores (Schucks, O'Reilly, CSK, Kragen etc.) sell cheap-o 30mm 1/2" drive sockets for around $3...plenty good enough for torquing a valve cover down.

For example: http://www.schucks.com/ProductDetail...goryCode=3408D

Permatex themselves recommend their red RTV for oil pans, tranny pans, etc., so it should be fine for an undemanding application like a valve cover.

Exhaust heat shield should be roughly 80 inch-pounds (that inch-pounds, not foot-pounds)...so, yeah, basically just snug it down (and put some anti-seize on it first). They're real soft bolts...easy to snap off. Frankly, I wouldn't mess with them if you don't have to.

Offhand, couldn't tell you the wheel nut torque. I usually just crank 'em hard with a breaker bar, without putting my legs into it. Just try to do them all roughly the same torque. Hard to overtorque a wheel nut unless you're using an impact wrench.

[Mike Gerber]

The wheel nut torque is 76 ft lbs.

Mike

[wilsonman02]

believe it or not i cant find a craftsman 30mm hex socket, and they looked it up and said they dont make it? They have it in 12pt but not 6. Are they hard to come by or something?