3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I do my own work I paid (my cars are different so use it as an estimate) that front pads $60 per set of Wagner thermo quiets, Brembo blank rotors $130 CDN a pair,
$15 for new brake fluid, I used 3/4 of a 1 litre can of ATE blue this summer and 2 hours to do it.
labour in Ontario is about $80 an hour if you are lucky. Professional can probably do this in 1.5 hours or less.
If you got lots of time, call up a parts supply shop and ask for the specific parts and price.
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2004 RX330 Sport
2003 Cam I4 XLE
2000 Cam XLE Gold Edition V6
1998 CamCE I4 Super Commuter!
There is no difference on doing the front brakes on a car with or without ABS. Go for it, especially if you have done this work in the past. As far as the clips and shims, there is no way of telling until you get in there, so I would recommend locating them on the phone and then tackling the job with the knowledge you may need another car to go get them, once you are in to the job. Either that, or buy them and make sure they are returnable if not needed.
I can't see paying so much money for labor for car repairs. I do most of my repairs myself and save lots of cash. When I do a repair I've never done before, I ask friends, coworkers and of course get on the internet. I'm a member of a forum for every car I own. This site being the latest. I always pick up great advice on forums like this and once in a while I can even throw my 2 cents in. I say go for it!
[quote=Icefan71;3039411]I can't see paying so much money for labor for car repairs. I do most of my repairs myself and save lots of cash. When I do a repair I've never done before, I ask friends, coworkers and of course get on the internet. I'm a member of a forum for every car I own. This site being the latest. I always pick up great advice on forums like this and once in a while I can even throw my 2 cents in. I say go for it![/quote
Plenty of folks out there willing to pay someone else to get their hands dirty. No one gets rich fixing cars, but they also don't have to worry about their jobs going over to China. I guess it evens out
It's pretty much a standard brake job. My mom's '98 Avalon with ABS is pretty much the exact same brake pad procedure as my '95 V6 Camry. I'll infer that a rotor job is just as similar My pads, OEM Toyota, cost me 65$ a pair taxes included (all 4 front pads). OEM toyota rotors cost 90$ apiece + tax. As for shims, there is no way of knowing until your'e in there, so buy 'em and return them if not needed. Good luck As for the poster who says he got a brake job for 100$ with OEM parts, that INSANELY cheap!!!!
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
my 93 camry 4 cyl has ABS. My co worker is the mechanic at the office so I watch him change brakes and oil almost daily. He did the front brakes on the camry and I heard the sensor on the rear brakes about six months later. I buy the pads and have the c clamp. I can't remember what size socket, but he watches me and walks away while I'll still at it. Only thing he said was not to bend the brake line as it might crack. Take the clip off, which was a 10mm or 12mm socket. It was easy. I screwed up by putting both sensor pads on one wheel. Hey, the camry still stops today everytime I put the foot on the brake.
I got the wheel nuts loosened after a struggle, but I can't get anywhere with the nuts that hold the caliper. Used penetrating oil, but...... they are tight !!
there is another product out there to loosen rusted/tight nuts, but cant think of it at the moment, hopefully someone else will jump in.
Just remember its called pb blaster, but dont know where to purchase in your area.
I got the wheel nuts loosened after a struggle, but I can't get anywhere with the nuts that hold the caliper. Used penetrating oil, but...... they are tight !!
I guess I need an impact wrench. Any advice?
Give the nuts a medium-hard whack or two with a hammer to help loosen the rust and help the oil to penetrate. Taking a propane torch to the nuts (and then letting them cool) also does a pretty nice job of breaking loose the rust (personally, I wouldn't use the torch unless I had to...fire and brake fluid are a bad combo). Are you using a breaker bar, or just a ratchet...'course, there ain't a lot of room down there for a big bar. If you can borrow one, the impact wrench would be nice.
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Originally Posted by ehoff
there is another product out there to loosen rusted/tight nuts, but cant think of it at the moment, hopefully someone else will jump in. Just remember its called pb blaster, but dont know where to purchase in your area.
PB Blaster is pretty easy find. I know Home Depot carries it, as well as the generic auto parts stores (Schucks, O'Reilly, Autozone, etc.). Heck, Walmart might even carry it. FWIW, never noticed it was really any better than any other penetrating oil.
Per hill8570 "Are you using a breaker bar, or just a ratchet...'course, there ain't a lot of room down there for a big bar. If you can borrow one, the impact wrench would be nice."
If the entire front of the car is off the ground, you can turn the wheel you are working on all the way to that side. It will give you more room to work and you will be able to get a breaker bar in there, if you have one available.
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