3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I have a 2000 Camry 4cly with 115,000 miles on it. I got the car second handed so it wasn't well maintain before. I am burning the oil and loosing a quart every 1000 miles. I am using 10w-30 currently to slow down the burning. Could I possibly go up to a 10w-40 weight oil? Or would that do damage to the motor? I currently live in Northern California by San Francisco.
Last edited by asiandude03; 01-16-2010 at 01:18 AM.
You sure you're burning oil and not just leaking? 115K miles is awfully low mileage to be getting significant ring wear. If you were actually burning that much oil, I wouldn't think you could pass the HC portion of the Cali smog tests.
If it's actually leakage, then putting in a "high mileage" oil would help swell the seals and perhaps slow down the leak (although a quart every 1000 miles is a pretty significant leak...it may not help something that large). I'd really try to trace down the leak, 'tho -- if it's the oil seals near your timing belt, you're going to prematurely ruin the timing belt with that kind of leak.
You sure you're burning oil and not just leaking? 115K miles is awfully low mileage to be getting significant ring wear. If you were actually burning that much oil, I wouldn't think you could pass the HC portion of the Cali smog tests.
If it's actually leakage, then putting in a "high mileage" oil would help swell the seals and perhaps slow down the leak (although a quart every 1000 miles is a pretty significant leak...it may not help something that large). I'd really try to trace down the leak, 'tho -- if it's the oil seals near your timing belt, you're going to prematurely ruin the timing belt with that kind of leak.
No leak. It doesn't burn constantly its only at start up and when your at a stop light and you get on the gas it burns oil like blue color. I think one or several valve guides started to leak oil into the motor.
But my question is could I use 10w-40 weight on my 4cly motor without damaging it?
Last edited by asiandude03; 01-13-2010 at 04:48 PM.
No leak. It doesn't burn constantly its only at start up and when your at a stop light and you get on the gas it burns oil like blue color. I think one or several valve guides started to leak oil into the motor.
But my question is could I use 10w-40 weight on my 4cly motor without damaging it?
What's the oil cap spec? Generally, you can get away with using one viscosity grade up from spec.
No leak. It doesn't burn constantly its only at start up and when your at a stop light and you get on the gas it burns oil like blue color. I think one or several valve guides started to leak oil into the motor.
But my question is could I use 10w-40 weight on my 4cly motor without damaging it?
If it doesnt get below freezing in cali youll be fine with 10w40. Doubt itll stop the burning that much though, maybe by like a 1/4 of a quart.
Pull the valve cover and see how it looks. If your burning that bad its probally sludged.
What's the oil cap spec? Generally, you can get away with using one viscosity grade up from spec.
SAE 5w-30 is on the cap. I jumped it up to 10w-30. But I am still burning too much oil so I was thinking of using 10w-40 weight to slow it down even more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toyomoho
10W-40 will not cause any problems at your mild SFO temps.
This weight of oil might help but don't expect miracles.
The valve guide seals can harden with age.
Yea I figure that the guide seals started to harden with age and to break. I am not expecting a miracle that using 10w-40 will stop my problem but to slow it down even more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsrus
If it doesnt get below freezing in cali youll be fine with 10w40. Doubt itll stop the burning that much though, maybe by like a 1/4 of a quart.
Pull the valve cover and see how it looks. If your burning that bad its probally sludged.
Great! I am going to start using 10w-40 on my next oil change.
A quart in 1000 miles is not bad. I have had cars that burned two or three times as much, andsince they ran fine i just added oil. The time when this might be a problem is at smog check , you know how draconian they are now, BUT since you bought the car used, that means it had to pass smog for the other party to sell it to you, so maybe it's not so bad.
If you are skilled enough to fix this yourself, i would. Valve seals are cheap and you just need some special tools and you can change the valve seals with the head still on the car. You need compressed air and a fitting to go in the spark plug hole. (The compressed air holds the valves shut after you remove the two valve keepers, if you don't hold them shut with air the valves will fall into the cylinder and you will have to remove the head after all.)
(Some books say you can feed in a bunch of cord or thin rope into the spark plug hole and this will hold the valves shut - sounds like it might work but i've never tried it, i think i'd go with compressed air if i had a choice - ).
Then you need a valve spring compressor tool to press down the valve springs, after which you can remove the two small keepers and the spring will come out. Now you can change the valve seals, lube them up really well with assembly lube or soak them in oil, remove the old seal and push in the new one. Reassemble valve, move on to the next one, repeat 7X.
I think on your engine the camshaft has to come out to get at the valves. That means the timing belt has to come off too (a good time to change it maybe). Removing the camshaft is no big deal, mark your bearings and bearing caps so they go back in exactly the same spot in the same orientation and lube the bearings with assembly ube or stp before replacing the camshaft.
The 2000 Camrys are known sludge makers. So yours may be a sign of imminent sludge seizure. (They begin by consuming oil and blowing blue smoke, according to reports. Then the check engine light comes on and it's to the junkyard).
1qt/1000 miles is pretty bad. However, in newer Camrys, Toyota said ~1 qt/600 miles is still considered NORMAL . I don't think anyone believes that.
I'd pull the valve cover and check for sludge. Valve cover gasket set is about $15 online. A few dabs of RTV and 15-30 minutes of your time. If you have the tools it's a good time to check valve clearances too.
If everything looks good, then I'd do a compression check. But this tests only the compression rings, not the oil control rings. So if the compression rings tested good you can still burn oil because the oil control rings aren't doing their job.
Quote:
Originally Posted by asiandude03
I have a 2000 Camry 4cly with 115,000 miles on it. I got the car second handed so it wasn't well maintain before. I am burning the oil and loosing a quart every 1000 miles. I am using 10w-30 currently to slow down the burning. Could I possibly go up to a 10w-40 weight oil? Or would that do damage to the motor? I currently live in Northern California by San Francisco.
A quart in 1000 miles is not bad. I have had cars that burned two or three times as much, andsince they ran fine i just added oil. The time when this might be a problem is at smog check , you know how draconian they are now, BUT since you bought the car used, that means it had to pass smog for the other party to sell it to you, so maybe it's not so bad.
If you are skilled enough to fix this yourself, i would. Valve seals are cheap and you just need some special tools and you can change the valve seals with the head still on the car. You need compressed air and a fitting to go in the spark plug hole. (The compressed air holds the valves shut after you remove the two valve keepers, if you don't hold them shut with air the valves will fall into the cylinder and you will have to remove the head after all.)
(Some books say you can feed in a bunch of cord or thin rope into the spark plug hole and this will hold the valves shut - sounds like it might work but i've never tried it, i think i'd go with compressed air if i had a choice - ).
Then you need a valve spring compressor tool to press down the valve springs, after which you can remove the two small keepers and the spring will come out. Now you can change the valve seals, lube them up really well with assembly lube or soak them in oil, remove the old seal and push in the new one. Reassemble valve, move on to the next one, repeat 7X.
I think on your engine the camshaft has to come out to get at the valves. That means the timing belt has to come off too (a good time to change it maybe). Removing the camshaft is no big deal, mark your bearings and bearing caps so they go back in exactly the same spot in the same orientation and lube the bearings with assembly ube or stp before replacing the camshaft.
I don't have the tools for that or the time. I am not saying that I am not skilled enough. I have done rebuild engine, swapping motors, and trannys. Do you think Firestone Tire shop will do a valve job? I was going to go there for a tire alignment, timing belt change/water pump, and new tires.
Thanks for advice!
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD
The 2000 Camrys are known sludge makers. So yours may be a sign of imminent sludge seizure. (They begin by consuming oil and blowing blue smoke, according to reports. Then the check engine light comes on and it's to the junkyard).
1qt/1000 miles is pretty bad. However, in newer Camrys, Toyota said ~1 qt/600 miles is still considered NORMAL . I don't think anyone believes that.
I'd pull the valve cover and check for sludge. Valve cover gasket set is about $15 online. A few dabs of RTV and 15-30 minutes of your time. If you have the tools it's a good time to check valve clearances too.
If everything looks good, then I'd do a compression check. But this tests only the compression rings, not the oil control rings. So if the compression rings tested good you can still burn oil because the oil control rings aren't doing their job.
Thanks for the advice. It slipped my mind to do a compression check on this car to see if it is worth doing the valve job. Also I will put the valve cover off to check for sludge.
No, I don't think Firestone Tire is the place for engine work. In fact, I personally do not believe most shop can properly handle them.
IMO, if you need an engine machine shop, I'd start by looking at AERA Engine Rebuilders Assoc. Member. Look for those that participate in racing is a plus. No guarantees. I've seen duds doing (IMO) crappy work too. So still pick carefully.
I don't have the tools for that or the time. I am not saying that I am not skilled enough. I have done rebuild engine, swapping motors, and trannys. Do you think Firestone Tire shop will do a valve job? I was going to go there for a tire alignment, timing belt change/water pump, and new tires.
Well here is an update. I didn't have the money to get the valves checked or adjusted or changed.
But I threw a bottle of Lucas Oil Stabilizer and 10w-40 weight oil. I pretty much stop burning oil or leaking it out. I am only on my first oil change using this method so I am hoping it works. I will keep you guys updated.
If you're nearing the next timing belt job, check valve clearances and replace all valve stem seals at the same time, should save you some labor costs with many of the same parts removed.
Have you considered using Walmart's High Mileage oil?
Quote:
Originally Posted by asiandude03
Well here is an update. I didn't have the money to get the valves checked or adjusted or changed.
But I threw a bottle of Lucas Oil Stabilizer and 10w-40 weight oil. I pretty much stop burning oil or leaking it out. I am only on my first oil change using this method so I am hoping it works. I will keep you guys updated.
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Burning Oil???
. I don't think anyone believes that. 
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