Vibration after new motor mounts - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Retrospekt · 01-16-2010, 06:39 PM

My mechanic replaced the motor mounts and I'm getting pretty heavy vibration when the car is stopped, in D gear. He told me these exact words:

"You're going to experience some shaking for a while. The mounts are new so the engine is sitting higher, and the transmission is sagging due to the old tranny mount. The motor mounts should soften in a little while and the vibration should stop. If not, we'll change the transmission mount."

Is this right?

***JohnGD*** · 01-16-2010, 08:03 PM

In my experience, changing out a worn engine mount results in a quiet, smooth running engine.

I think you need a new mechanic. At least I think he should say: if the shaking doesn't stop, we'll put the old one back and refund your hard earned cash.

That said, he may have put in a cheap aftermarket solid mount, and your engine mount may have been a gel filled one.

That's why I repeated over and over again, engine mounts should be OEM. (Unless you race and need urethane mounts).

Also, if the heights are different, then it's possible the WRONG mount was put in. Get a new mechanic.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retrospekt

My mechanic replaced the motor mounts and I'm getting pretty heavy vibration when the car is stopped, in D gear. He told me these exact words:

"You're going to experience some shaking for a while. The mounts are new so the engine is sitting higher, and the transmission is sagging due to the old tranny mount. The motor mounts should soften in a little while and the vibration should stop. If not, we'll change the transmission mount."

Is this right?

Retrospekt · 01-17-2010, 12:08 PM

I'm going to go back to him and have him put in the old ones. Is it possible to put in a rear mount without removing the engine again?

I'm also getting my 200 dollars back.

***fenixus*** · 01-17-2010, 12:32 PM

none of mounts require engine removal unless you want to change them all in the same time.

retrospekt, have you used aftermarket parts or used your own ones bought online (OEM?) ? also you should replace the transmission mount together with all 3 engine mounts for best results.

Retrospekt · 01-17-2010, 12:38 PM

I trusted he would buy some decent quality aftermarket hydraulic replica's, like I saw. But it feels like he bought the cheapest, most solid mounts he could get his hands on.

I'll have him return them, return my money (200 for such cheap mounts is ludicrous), and I'm springing for OEM. I'm tired of this.

***fenixus*** · 01-17-2010, 01:00 PM

check part numbers for each of 4 mounts (most are called "insulator") on toyodiy.com
then order those parts from OEM catalog of e.g. 1sttoyotaparts.com or toyotapartsoutlet.com which is closer to you geographically i think.

hill8570 · 01-17-2010, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retrospekt

Is it possible to put in a rear mount without removing the engine again?

No need to pull the engine for any of the mounts -- just remove the dogbone and use a floor jack and 2x4 against the oil pan to raise the engine a bit. Worst part of the whole operation is getting to the top bolt of the rear mount...takes some creative use of U-joints and/or wobble extensions. Since everything was just changed out, you don't have to hassle with rusty bolts -- that's heaven right there!

Excellent DIY here at 5SFE Motor Mount How-to

BTW, how's the leak from the rear main seal? Did he fix that one OK?

***JohnGD*** · 01-17-2010, 05:50 PM

Hold your temper. Check the part number against the correct ones first. It's either was the wrong part or like I said a solid aftermarket mount instead of a liquid filled one. Don't "replace" anything else now. This is another reason many TN members do their own work.

Things like this you pretty much have to put down in writing on the work order. For example, "Customer Wants Toyota Mounts Only". Otherwise it's hard to dispute afterward. I suspect the most he will do is to order the "correct" Toyota part and redo the work.

I personally would loosen all top nuts/bolts on major mounts, remove the dog bone, and loosen the subframe side of the transmission mount if it's a small "rubber block" type and not a big cylinder type. But whatever works for you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retrospekt

I trusted he would buy some decent quality aftermarket hydraulic replica's, like I saw. But it feels like he bought the cheapest, most solid mounts he could get his hands on.

I'll have him return them, return my money (200 for such cheap mounts is ludicrous), and I'm springing for OEM. I'm tired of this.

Retrospekt · 01-17-2010, 07:07 PM

Is there any chance that what he's saying is valid? The car only vibrates in D, and only at a stoplight, not while the car is moving. I have driven the car for 2 days and have felt it "soften" a little. The mounts look the same as the OEM ones, but I haven't inspected part numbers yet.

360glitch · 01-17-2010, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retrospekt

Is there any chance that what he's saying is valid? The car only vibrates in D, and only at a stoplight, not while the car is moving. I have driven the car for 2 days and have felt it "soften" a little. The mounts look the same as the OEM ones, but I haven't inspected part numbers yet.

I'm not expert but I'd say the mechanic's explanation seems possible. Replacing the transmission mount along with the engine mounts seems like a good idea. If you want to feel some vibrations have a seat in my Talon with prothane mounts all around and the balance shafts removed from the engine, ha.

Retrospekt · 01-17-2010, 07:37 PM

I'm going to go ahead and replace the tranny mount. If the vibration doesn't stop I'll have him throw the old mounts back in and replace them with OEM when I have some more money.

***JohnGD*** · 01-17-2010, 08:34 PM

Yeah, give them the benefit of the doubt, even if I believe that one less bad mount should make the engine smoother, not rougher.

How about bringing your own OEM mount like other suggested?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retrospekt

I'm going to go ahead and replace the tranny mount. If the vibration doesn't stop I'll have him throw the old mounts back in and replace them with OEM when I have some more money.

***JohnGD*** · 01-17-2010, 08:40 PM

Again, I prefer OEM mounts, but here are pictures of 96 5SFE A/T mounts, Beck Arnley for reference:

Front: $94.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=475792

Front hydraulic (Anchor brand): $48.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=315903

Rear: $104.99
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=475890

Transmission mount, easily inspected, unless cracked I don't see how this would be a problem:
$41.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=475734

"Dog bone", $26.79:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=474867

Retrospekt · 01-17-2010, 10:12 PM

The mounts in there look exactly like the Beck Arnley ones that John put up.

I contacted him and he said he still believes it's the tranny sitting lower that is causing the problem.

He said if a new tranny mount doesn't fix the problem he will gladly put in my OEM mounts back in and return the aftermarkets.

***JohnGD*** · 01-17-2010, 10:36 PM

Did you ever compare the old/new mounts? Just wondering.

But try it out I suppose and see how the tranny mount goes.

In general, if the dog bone goes bad I'll inspect the other mounts. If one major mount goes, all get replaced.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retrospekt

The mounts in there look exactly like the Beck Arnley ones that John put up.

I contacted him and he said he still believes it's the tranny sitting lower that is causing the problem.

He said if a new tranny mount doesn't fix the problem he will gladly put in my OEM mounts back in and return the aftermarkets.