3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
1. I see a few people that are using the unorthodox crank pulley, what advantage would there be in using their crank pulley? (and what do they mean by underdrive). Also, i've been on their website and they dont even have a Camry in the 'select your vehicle option' so, i'm guessing some other one there will fit it. If anyone knows, I would greatly appreciate the info.
2. I bought the TRD s/c, and it came with the 3.4" pulley for 3 psi boost. Stock is 4, and I was wondering where I could get that, and if the stock engine could handle 5 psi safely. My browser says the URD website could be a threat to my computer and doesn't let me open it. Is there any other way to find a 3.2" or 3.0" pulley (i'll get the one most people recommend).'
1. pully is missing a rubber vibration dampener, so it is lighter, frees up a few hp, the pully is smaller so it underdrives everything attached, even your s/c.
2. pullyboys.com is the last ones left with the pullys ..... unless the ion m62 pullys fit.
urd is out of pullys, 5 psi of boost, you need fuel upgrades, and a freer exhaust, piggy back as well
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the motor can easily handle 5 psi. as stated youll want to upgrade your fuel pump (id recommend 255 lph), install the "jim's" fuel mod to even out flow between banks, upgrading the injectors couldnt hurt but others have gone 5 on stock ones, make sure you have upgraded sparkplugs and install a tranny cooler(if you auto). a tune will be a must as well.
if you are auto you may also want to consider getting the TRD EBC if you can find one, it will help prolong the tranny. if your running with 5 then id consider upgrading the clutch too.
OH and youll likely have problems with the knock sensors, especially if running without a tune. you may need to relocate them.
Lets say I get a tune right away (within 2-3 weeks) will there be a good chance of not having a problem with the knock sensors? btw, what would that cause? I believe I read a thread from a while back about someone that moved them because I believe they caused the engine to shut down.
I also know nothing about transmission coolers and what would work for my car, if you can, I'd appreciate a link and a few directions, i couldn't find answers to any of these in the stickys.
Lastly, is "Jim's" mod replacing the fuel lines in a gen 4 w/ the ones from a gen 3 b/c they're bigger? if so, Gino told me that, but where would I get a set of fuel lines from a gen 3 Camry. I understand I'm askin for a lot of info so your help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
1. pully is missing a rubber vibration dampener, so it is lighter, frees up a few hp, the pully is smaller so it underdrives everything attached, even your s/c.
2. pullyboys.com is the last ones left with the pullys ..... unless the ion m62 pullys fit.
urd is out of pullys, 5 psi of boost, you need fuel upgrades, and a freer exhaust, piggy back as well
Thank you, just got a 3" (5 psi) pulley from them. Sorry if this is an uber noob question, but can you elaborate a little bit on what a piggyback is...I thought the s/c has an EBC...and where would I get a piggy back if I need one/is it something I should have a tuner shop do when I get a tune?
Lastly...just a general question. found a set of instructions for the oil change in the 3.4 L s/c (tacoma i believe)...would the process be the same as mine? and if so, i believe a noobtard like myself is capable of doing that...
I got my pulley for my 94 es300 (1MZ) from http://www.nonstoptuning.com/ the pulley is high quality and I have had no problems with it.
Thanks, i saw the pulley. I'm curious as to what underdriving the accessories actually means..and should it concern me that I found the pulley under the N/A engines section? Would you know if I can use this with the s/c setup? Also, they have 2 available, one that says 'stock diameter' and another that says '15% underdrive crank'. the only one with an hp gain would be the second one right?
and if it helps...a list of somewhat relevant parts that i've already purchased but dont have on the car yet:
Wal.... 255 fuel pump
fuel filter
obx headers, and the exhaust is a catback dual.
I have some NGK platinum spark plugs b/c i planned to change them. Should I go iridium?
Lets say I get a tune right away (within 2-3 weeks) will there be a good chance of not having a problem with the knock sensors? btw, what would that cause? I believe I read a thread from a while back about someone that moved them because I believe they caused the engine to shut down.
a tune will help but eventually they will blow. a simple relocation is all that is needed. it may not even happen but when you raise the boost past 4 on the gen4 it can happen and when it does it sucks. while your working on the SC it would be a good idea to relocate it. but like i said, soem have done fine with out doing this, but im willing to bet money after a while youll blow one.
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I also know nothing about transmission coolers and what would work for my car, if you can, I'd appreciate a link and a few directions, i couldn't find answers to any of these in the stickys.
solaraguy.com has more info on that, if your goin to 5 id highly recommend it.
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Lastly, is "Jim's" mod replacing the fuel lines in a gen 4 w/ the ones from a gen 3 b/c they're bigger? if so, Gino told me that, but where would I get a set of fuel lines from a gen 3 Camry. I understand I'm askin for a lot of info so your help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
this is incorrect, it has nothing to do with the size of the lines. the gen4 has retuernless fuel system, as a result under boosted conditions the front bank doesnt get as much fuel as the rear. Jim's fuel mod make a Y before the fuel rails and evenly distributes fuel to both rails. the OEM setup has fuel going the the rear bank rail first then transfering to the front. fine for OEM but not boosted above 4. there are some who have done withb out it but it wares on the front bank O2 sensor and can cause problems with the knock sensor.
Underdriving them is essential if your the intent is geared towards higher RPMS. Plus it free's up some power.
I didn't use exact numbers as I don't have them but take a look at this.
Calculate a ratio from the 'drive' to 'driven' pulley based on the pulley diameter where the belt rides. Now multiply this by the intended crank RPM.
Drive/Driven * Crank RPM = Driven RPM
OR
Crank/Alternator pully * RPM = Alternator Pulley RPM
Stock Pulley Example: Like Alternator or AC pulley (I know the AC is bigger)
4.0"/2.5" * 6000rpm = 9,6000 RPM
Underdrive Pulley Example:
3.2"/2.5 * 6000 RPM = 7,680 RPM at the Alternator.
Lets say you use the stock diameter and spin your S/C motor to 7800 rpm.
4.0"/2.5" * 7,800 rpm = 12,480 RPM
The alternator may not like you for this!
Anyway, you get the idea. The downside is too much idle time and the alternator voltage may be lower, but it may save your AC compressor if you don't have a cut-out device installed.
Hope this helps,
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
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