3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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OK so My coupe is all fucked up right now......I have a check engine light on because of the crank position sensor, sounds like the driver side axle that I replaced in 2008 has another problem in the cv joint, and I have power steering fluid all over the road coming from under the passenger side right around the timing cover........ ...High Pressure Line?
2 Questions (need answers ASAP)
1: Can I cut the power steering belt off and roll without ps until I can locate and fix the problem so I do not damage a possibly good pump by running it dry? Will it still damage the rack?
2: Can anyone tell me where the hell can I get a descent priced CPS in store? Autozone wants 107.99 for their Dura P.O.S.-SHIT.....
__________________ Finally Red MKII MR2 5s & Metallic Blue 96 Cam 1MZ
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Does anyone else have a suggestion for locating the leak in my P/S?
Don't cut the belt just yet. I suggest buying several cans of parts cleaner and thoroughly clean the lines, pump and rack boots. Catch the leftovers in a drain pan. After cleaning, fire it up and watch for where the leak starts. For the axle, is the noise constant or just when making sharp turns? An increase in noise when making a sharp turn is a tell tale sign of a bad CV. Constant noise could indicate a problem with a wheel bearing or maybe a caliper is dragging. Unfortunately, the CPS is going to be expensive whether you go dealer or aftermarket. Cheapest alternative would be a you pull-it yard. What year is your coupe?
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1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 249,xxx miles - New water pump, TB etc etc
1989 Camry-Gone but not forgotten. Car has become a birthday gift for my cousin.
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles - New flasher relay installed.
Its a 96 Coupe.......and I found the prob with the CPS......I routed it wrong when I did my water pump/ oil pump/timing belt change and the alternator belt chewed through it......so I cut it/ resoldered it and rerouted it so its good......but I think the pump might be gone.........any suggs on a pump.....does Toyota have a rebuild kit for them? Also the noise from the wheel is constant and its kinda like a bad cv joint but i replaced it in 08 so its damn near new and I couldnt find rips.......Im thinking wheel bearing..... and my brakes do need changing so maybe this is a prob too.......idk
__________________ Finally Red MKII MR2 5s & Metallic Blue 96 Cam 1MZ
Watch out for the build thread!!!
IM BAAAAAACK!!!!!!!
Its a 96 Coupe.......and I found the prob with the CPS......I routed it wrong when I did my water pump/ oil pump/timing belt change and the alternator belt chewed through it......so I cut it/ resoldered it and rerouted it so its good......but I think the pump might be gone.........any suggs on a pump.....does Toyota have a rebuild kit for them? Also the noise from the wheel is constant and its kinda like a bad cv joint but i replaced it in 08 so its damn near new and I couldnt find rips.......Im thinking wheel bearing..... and my brakes do need changing so maybe this is a prob too.......idk
Pull your front wheels and have a look at whats left of the pads. Compare the amount of pad wear on both sides. A major difference in thickness between the inside and outside pad would indicate a dragging caliper. Check the link below for a seal kit. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...%2BKit%2BGATES
As far as the wheel bearing goes, best way to test it is to remove the driveshaft and spin the hub by hand. If it bad, you'll feel and hear it.
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1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 249,xxx miles - New water pump, TB etc etc
1989 Camry-Gone but not forgotten. Car has become a birthday gift for my cousin.
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles - New flasher relay installed.
Noise: Outer CV's click when turning real sharp in a parking lot.
Complete failure of either joint, inside or out will vibrate like mad above 40mph, although it will likely propell the car at low speed just fine.
- Neither of these suit your condition.
Wheel bearings growl. Go straight down a road, swerve left and return to center. Swerve right and return to center. You can hear the pitch change as the load increases. You said you pulled the axels. How tight are the axel nuts? I think they want 200 to 250+foot/lbs. If they were not tight enough, you could have a bearing failure. The nut keeps the bearings together.
This still doesn't sound like your issue but maybe close. . .
+1 for the none floating caliper and/or brake related vibration. Perhaps what you hear is like a serious metal on metal grind. . . Inspect the brakes!
With all these things going on borrow a car. . .
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
The Following User Says Thank You to 73sport For This Useful Post:
^^ I have a feeling that its just my brakes......I mean a brand new axle shouldnt fail so early and I triple checked everything along with properly torquing everything esp. the hub nut.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by haux
I'd suggest rockauto.com for that crank position sensor too. Any idea how much your local dealer wants for it?
Yeah I already fixed it...... my alternator belt chewed through the wire because I didnt route it properly when I did my t/b,and w/p change........
I cant wait to get rid of this damn troublesome motor and get my 3vz in May.....
Again thanks guys I will keep you updated on what i find........
P.S. IT WAS WEIRD TO FIND THAT MY CRANK POSITIONING SENSOR WAS LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE AC COMPRESSOR AND NOT BEHIND THE TIMING BELT COVER OR ON THE DISTRIBUTER......THOSE WERE THE TWO LOCATIONS I HEARD OF IT BEING AND WHEN I LOOKED MINE IS DIFF. MAYBE BECAUSE I HAVE A 3.5......ANY INPUT ON THAT?
__________________ Finally Red MKII MR2 5s & Metallic Blue 96 Cam 1MZ
Watch out for the build thread!!!
IM BAAAAAACK!!!!!!!
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