Power Steering fluid question and How to tighten PS belt?

[haux]

I ran about 2.5 quarts of PS fluid through the system a couple days ago, mostly because I got air in there and had to use a bunch of fluid to get it all out. It was running clear at the end. The next day I noticed the fluid already looked dark. I ran another quart through today, went for a drive, and it's darker again. Does heat instantly turn PS fluid darker? Not black... but maybe a darker red. Originally it seems to be a clear pinkish/red color. Or does it keep getting dark because of residual fluid in the power steering system that doesn't circulate until the car is running?

Yesterday when I was doing some work, I noticed my power steering belt was indeed a bit loose. Not floppy, but not as tight as it should be. This may very well explain some of the stiffening I've been feeling lately... I'm hoping.

I read through the DIY involving a complete belt change, water pump replacement, etc. I didn't catch where it mentioned how to tighten the belt. I remember there being some adjuster... but which bolt do you have to loosen to adjust the tension?

[mazdaverx7]

check your owners manual..my 92 calls for ATF in the p/s system, not p/s fluid.

[haux]

The one I bought is pictured below. I asked the guy at the store if it was the same as Dexron III, because I remember reading a DIY and that's what was used. He said Dexron III is ATF not power steering fluid.

Why would there be a product sold as power steering fluid if it was not to be used for power steering?
I am assuming that this Prestone fluid is indeed Dexron II or III, but with additives.

In any case, I just read now... "Fluid: ATF DEXRON II or III"
So I guess I'll be replacing the fluid again tomorrow.

[carsrus]

Originally Posted by haux

The one I bought is pictured below. I asked the guy at the store if it was the same as Dexron III, because I remember reading a DIY and that's what was used. He said Dexron III is ATF not power steering fluid.

Why would there be a product sold as power steering fluid if it was not to be used for power steering?
I am assuming that this Prestone fluid is indeed Dexron II or III, but with additives.

In any case, I just read now... "Fluid: ATF DEXRON II or III"
So I guess I'll be replacing the fluid again tomorrow.

Basically these types of fluids have stop leak additives. There fine if your system has a leak, but if its fine its probally more cost efficient and better to use dex3.

Power steering additives gel in the cold and well, the steering can be stiff the first few turns after a cold start if its real cold.

[BamZipPow]

After you git all that PS fluid purged out with fresh ATF...git some Auto-RX and run an ounce in there.

[Kenny_McCormic]

PS fluid= undyed Dex 3.

[73sport]

Originally Posted by carsrus

Basically these types of fluids have stop leak additives. There fine if your system has a leak, but if its fine its probally more cost efficient and better to use dex3.

I disagree with this statement "they are fine if. . . "

Read the ingredients. If the product has either or other items which make the seals expand you might just find more leaks than you had started with!

Good if you wish to sell the car and burn somebody. Bad if expect it to work more than a couple of months. Once those 15 year old seals are done being pushed against the sealing surface from a chemical reaction they'll leak worse when they contract back to the original size. AND once the source that expanded them is gone - (either) expect a fountan effect!

Dexron III or better is the approved fluid which is not power steering fluid.

Yes, you need to steer the rack lock to lock during the flush as both sides of the racks piston have fluid trapped sitting idle until the wheel is moved.

EDIT: Sometimes the best method of getting air out is to let it sit for 20 30 min and do somethign else. Never steer rapidly as this will simply aerate it more and soon it spirals out of control. Best to have the wheels off the ground and turn as slow as you can all the way side to side. Obviously never let the sump run dry or you start over! That is, if you fire the engine and see the sump get sucked dry KILL and fill it.

Same goes for transmissions. Never ADD STOP LEAK! Bad IDEA!

[JohnGD]

Standard Dexron III should do it. Don't use the thinner Dexron VI in PS systems. 1 gal WalMart SuperTech D-III-compatible <$10 is a good deal. Or IIRC <$3 per quart.

Why would you have air in there? Like boiling PS fluid reservoir? The concern would be a bad rack.

Was the flush like:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t19334.html

I'd use a long pry bar ($4.99, or a set for $11.99) to apply tension while tightening the PS pump bolts (both of them). Unless you have other methods of doing so. This is a stinking slide rail design. Again, Toyota should have used an automatic belt tensioner and you wouldn't need the following tools.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1654

I would use this to check belt tension, however, it goes down to 100 lbs, so it's iffy guesstimate below that:
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-4...uge-91132.aspx

Originally Posted by haux

I ran about 2.5 quarts of PS fluid through the system a couple days ago, mostly because I got air in there and had to use a bunch of fluid to get it all out. It was running clear at the end. The next day I noticed the fluid already looked dark. I ran another quart through today, went for a drive, and it's darker again. Does heat instantly turn PS fluid darker? Not black... but maybe a darker red. Originally it seems to be a clear pinkish/red color. Or does it keep getting dark because of residual fluid in the power steering system that doesn't circulate until the car is running?

Yesterday when I was doing some work, I noticed my power steering belt was indeed a bit loose. Not floppy, but not as tight as it should be. This may very well explain some of the stiffening I've been feeling lately... I'm hoping.

I read through the DIY involving a complete belt change, water pump replacement, etc. I didn't catch where it mentioned how to tighten the belt. I remember there being some adjuster... but which bolt do you have to loosen to adjust the tension?

[JohnGD]

+1

To clear air bubbles, just run the engine with wheels jacked up, turn stop-to-stop several times, and the air should clear. If the simpler flushing below doesn't do it:

To "flush" the system, the engines does NOT need to be on. Just turning it stop-to-stop will pump fluid out as well.

Originally Posted by 73sport

Best to have the wheels off the ground and turn as slow as you can all the way side to side. Obviously never let the sump run dry or you start over! That is, if you fire the engine and see the sump get sucked dry KILL and fill it.

[haux]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Standard Dexron III should do it. Don't use the thinner Dexron VI in PS systems. 1 gal WalMart SuperTech D-III-compatible <$10 is a good deal. Or IIRC <$3 per quart.

Why would you have air in there? Like boiling PS fluid reservoir? The concern would be a bad rack.

Was the flush like:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t19334.html

I'd use a long pry bar ($4.99, or a set for $11.99) to apply tension while tightening the PS pump bolts (both of them). Unless you have other methods of doing so. This is a stinking slide rail design. Again, Toyota should have used an automatic belt tensioner and you wouldn't need the following tools.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1654

I would use this to check belt tension, however, it goes down to 100 lbs, so it's iffy guesstimate below that:
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-4...uge-91132.aspx

Yes, I followed that DIY for the fluid change. The glitch was that I thought you had to START the motor for the PS pump to circulate fluid. In about one second all of the fluid in the reservoir was gone and it was sucking in air.

Regarding some of the earlier posts. The Prestone stuff I used does not have a stop leak ingredient in it. It definitely had some sort of additive, given it's "helps stop squeals" advertisement on the package, but it wasn't a stop leak.

Yesterday, I ran regular Coastal Dex/Merc through there.

Today, I tightened the PS belt.

No change. Looks like I will definitely have to buy a new steering rack now.

In fact, I might have overtightened the belt. I heard a slight screech pulling out of a parking spot tonight. I thought screeching meant it was loose. Can it do that too if it's too tight?

[Hajoca]

Screeching usually means not enough tension. Re tighten, the new belt will stretch itself and lose some of the tension.

Was it wet or oily?

PS Fluid is fine for the system, and Dexron is a quality hydraulic fluid. The PS pump, rack , and seals are compatible with these two.

The dark fluid are deposits, and wear materials. After a few flushes you could try to clean out the reservoir's screen. I did that to both of my camrys.

[haux]

Originally Posted by Hajoca

Screeching usually means not enough tension. Re tighten, the new belt will stretch itself and lose some of the tension.

Was it wet or oily?

PS Fluid is fine for the system, and Dexron is a quality hydraulic fluid. The PS pump, rack , and seals are compatible with these two.

The dark fluid are deposits, and wear materials. After a few flushes you could try to clean out the reservoir's screen. I did that to both of my camrys.

It's definitely tight enough. I suppose it may have been some PS fluid on the belt. A bit more than usual spilled out when I was flushing it the other day. And I didn't feel like washing the engine bay properly like I usually do afterward.

I'll be flushing it again today with Dexron III. This will be the fourth time since a week ago.

I've considered cleaning the screen, but I'm unsure how. What do you even use to clean it once the reservoir is removed?

[Hajoca]

I cleaned my 98 reservoir with Varsol and WD40 sprayed in from bottom (mineral spirits) washed it out with soap and water, dried with compressed air and then refilled with Mobil 1 ATF. In 2006 I flushed it again, very clean atf came out, refilled with Dexron 6. Leak developed in the rack summer 2008, I drained some fluid out and put in Lucas stop leak. No issue yet.

My 00 was pretty clean to start with so I plugged the holes and used ps fluid mixed with varsol and shook it. Flushed and filled system with ATF and PS Fluid mix, as I wanted to finish up the open bottle I had on hand.