3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Replaced charcoal canister today - Just one question
I replaced my charcoal canister with one from a low mileage salvage vehicle.
I looked over everything to make sure the hoses were properly reconnected. If something was left off, or a couple hoses were connected improperly (swapped), should I have gotten a CEL right away, or at least after driving for a bit?
I don't necessarily doubt my work. But seeing as how there were quite a few things to hook up correctly, rather than just one or two, I'd like to know if there should be some sort of immediate failure if it wasn't done right.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
I think the EVAP test is done at steady cruising speed. Can't remember if requiring highway speeds.
Some are two-trip MILs, which means they'll take two strat-up cycles to set (the first one will be a "Pending" code in memory, if you scan with OBD-II).
Quote:
Originally Posted by haux
I replaced my charcoal canister with one from a low mileage salvage vehicle.
I looked over everything to make sure the hoses were properly reconnected. If something was left off, or a couple hoses were connected improperly (swapped), should I have gotten a CEL right away, or at least after driving for a bit?
I don't necessarily doubt my work. But seeing as how there were quite a few things to hook up correctly, rather than just one or two, I'd like to know if there should be some sort of immediate failure if it wasn't done right.
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
I replaced my charcoal canister with one from a low mileage salvage vehicle.
I looked over everything to make sure the hoses were properly reconnected. If something was left off, or a couple hoses were connected improperly (swapped), should I have gotten a CEL right away, or at least after driving for a bit?
I don't necessarily doubt my work. But seeing as how there were quite a few things to hook up correctly, rather than just one or two, I'd like to know if there should be some sort of immediate failure if it wasn't done right.
Actually replaced the canister about a week ago myself, for me the hardest part was the ridiculously rusted bolts that held the mounting bracket up!
Were you getting a CEL before you did the canister? I had one before, and it went away instantly the first time I started the car after the replace (then drove over to my mechanic and he cleared the code from the history).
Pending codes don't seem to show up on regular OBD-II scanners.
Someone did a scan using some "special" software on a laptop (a few weeks ago), and it showed a "Pending" code related to the EGR system. Of course, I had not replaced the VSV at that time, so that was likely the cause. The CEL never came on because of it. It just stayed Pending. The scanners you can borrow from any auto store never picked it up.
Are they supposed to? Or maybe there's another menu I'm supposed to go into to view them?
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
Actually replaced the canister about a week ago myself, for me the hardest part was the ridiculously rusted bolts that held the mounting bracket up!
Were you getting a CEL before you did the canister? I had one before, and it went away instantly the first time I started the car after the replace (then drove over to my mechanic and he cleared the code from the history).
The code I was getting before went away after replacing the Canister's VSV.
I've pulled loads of parts from a 56,000 mile salvage yard Camry. So this is just one of many things I swapped out. My car has over 338,000 miles. I figure replacing the canister can only make things better, and reduces the chance of the part failing in the near future.
Plus, I've "topped off" my tank many times in the past, not knowing that it can actually damage the canister.
The hardest part of the replacement for me was getting the hoses off initially. On Sunday, I started at about 3pm. I was working well into 9pm including a few breaks. It was a total pain in the ass. I've got some fancy cuts and bruises now, to add to my collection of others from recent work. I didn't even finish it on Sunday. Got a ride home from where I was working on it, and took about an hour to finish it up today. One of the worst ones was that plastic hose thing. I hate it.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
The code I was getting before went away after replacing the Canister's VSV.
I've pulled loads of parts from a 56,000 mile salvage yard Camry. So this is just one of many things I swapped out. My car has over 338,000 miles. I figure replacing the canister can only make things better, and reduces the chance of the part failing in the near future.
Plus, I've "topped off" my tank many times in the past, not knowing that it can actually damage the canister.
The hardest part of the replacement for me was getting the hoses off initially. On Sunday, I started at about 3pm. I was working well into 9pm including a few breaks. It was a total pain in the ass. I've got some fancy cuts and bruises now, to add to my collection of others from recent work. I didn't even finish it on Sunday. Got a ride home from where I was working on it, and took about an hour to finish it up today. One of the worst ones was that plastic hose thing. I hate it.
Yeah, I also topped off my tank in the past not knowing it could do damage to the canister, and apparently it's not uncommon for Gen4 Camrys to have the charcoal canister or VSV go bad, even thought it's a part that is supposed to last the life of the car. You're lucky to have a junker near you with 56k, where I live there are part out Gen3's as far as the eye can see, but no Gen4's...so I ended up paying more than I should have for a new canister assembly from a dealer.
It was such an inconvenient place to work, besides the rusty bolts, the two electrical connectors were stuck like glue, and I was worried I'd break the darn things by pulling any harder (but they did come off after some force). The check engine light had been on since I bought the car though, and after replacing the exhaust ,cat, and this part, I finally conquered it
It was such an inconvenient place to work, besides the rusty bolts, the two electrical connectors were stuck like glue, and I was worried I'd break the darn things by pulling any harder (but they did come off after some force).
I actually did break something. There was a plastic part at the VERY top. It had two hoses and one connector going to it. Not the VSV... but some other black piece. I think it was attached to a bracket somehow, but without being able to see what was actually going on up there, I yanked it down and broke whatever attached it to the bracket. I ended up using a ziptie to hold it in place when I put the new canister in.
I'm pretty sore from the whole job. Having to lie underneath the car and then strain myself (especially the neck) to sit up and cram my hands through narrow gaps just to pull off hoses/connectors that are stuck like their lives depend on it.
Live I've said before, screw the gym, this is just as good.
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2000 Toyota Camry LE (Japan made) i4 5S-FE 367,000+ miles.
I'm pretty sore from the whole job. Having to lie underneath the car and then strain myself (especially the neck) to sit up and cram my hands through narrow gaps just to pull off hoses/connectors that are stuck like their lives depend on it.
Yep, I ended up digging out my goggles from High School chemistry because the rust flakes kept getting in my eyes, lol. Since I just started doing repairs myself, my "shop lamp" is this getto looking table lamp I butchered down to the bare components; stuck up there quite nicely though
Quote:
Originally Posted by haux
Live I've said before, screw the gym, this is just as good.
Answering to my own question "what is for the charcoal canister is":
Quote:
The function of the fuel evaporative control system is to trap and store evaporative emissions from the gas tank and carburetor. A charcoal canister is used to trap the fuel vapors. The fuel vapors adhere to the charcoal, until the engine is started, and engine vacuum can be used to draw the vapors into the engine, so that they can be burned along with the fuel/air mixture. This system requires the use of a sealed gas tank filler cap. This cap is so important to the operation of the system, that a test of the cap is now being integrated into many state emission inspection programs. Pre-1970 cars released fuel vapors into the atmosphere through the use of a vented gas cap. Today with the use of sealed caps, redesigned gas tanks are used. The tank has to have the space for the vapors to collect so that they can then be vented to the charcoal canister. A purge valve is used to control the vapor flow into the engine. The purge valve is operated by engine vacuum. One common problem with this system is that the purge valve goes bad and engine vacuum draws fuel directly into the intake system. This enriches the fuel mixture and will foul the spark plugs. Most charcoal canisters have a filter that should be replaced periodically. This system should be checked when fuel mileage drops.
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