3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have a 97 camry that works great except once or twice a month it won't idle after being warmed up from driving and stopping at a light. If you give it gas and drive around (without stopping) it gets going no problem. However, if you don't keep your foot on the gas, it dies. This issue is very sparatic. I have removed and cleaned the IAC and the TB but it still happens every once in a while. For example, yesterday morning I started the car to warm it up a bit, drove the car down the road about .5 miles and stopped at a light where it began to sputter and die. I am needing to give some gas with my right foot while holding the brake with my left to keep it going. Today I did the exact same thing and their were no issues, everything was perfect. Thoughts?
sounds like the exact same problem my car has ... it's a faulty ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR, it is the one with the green connector on the engine..... dealer around here wants $85 for a new one ...but i'm waiting for one to pop up on ebay.
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1996 Camry DX 2.2L 280 000 km ....SOLD
2002 Camry LE 2.4L 109 000 km ....Running strong
i had the same exact problem with mine it all started with the start ups and i thought it might have been the starter but the next day i got it to start thank god and it would die without gassing it constantly. I drove it to the mechanic and it would go away but still didn't drive with as much power. The next day i found out that the throttle body etc was clogged up with sludge and wat not so i took it to my mechanic again and got an air induction cleaning ever since then its been perfect on start ups and i feel that same camry power again. you say you cleaned yours so i couldn't tell you man you try taking it to a mechanic that looks at it for free and you can watch him do it?
sounds like the exact same problem my car has ... it's a faulty ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR, it is the one with the green connector on the engine..... dealer around here wants $85 for a new one ...but i'm waiting for one to pop up on ebay.
How did you find out that it's the engine coolant temperature sensor? I don't think engine coolant has anything to do with car dieing and having to step on the gas. My car is currently acting up too. I have a 2001 Toyota Avalon that either dies on startup or idles lesser than 200rpm. I cleaned the IACV and throttle bodylike twice already in 1 year. I think it's either the fuel filter or fuel pump. Anybody else got any suggestions or thoughts?
How did you find out that it's the engine coolant temperature sensor? I don't think engine coolant has anything to do with car dieing and having to step on the gas. My car is currently acting up too. I have a 2001 Toyota Avalon that either dies on startup or idles lesser than 200rpm. I cleaned the IACV and throttle bodylike twice already in 1 year. I think it's either the fuel filter or fuel pump. Anybody else got any suggestions or thoughts?
Does it only die or low idle until warmed up? Basically, does it ever idle correctly?
It idles great when started, it goes to about 1300 rpm on startup and then to about 800 after warmup. Drive it down the road and every once in awhile it will start to sputter and idle irratically when coming to a stop. I have been noticing it more frequently now, it happened twice last night. Could it be the TPS not working correctly?
It idles great when started, it goes to about 1300 rpm on startup and then to about 800 after warmup. Drive it down the road and every once in awhile it will start to sputter and idle irratically when coming to a stop. I have been noticing it more frequently now, it happened twice last night. Could it be the TPS not working correctly?
Off chance it's the TPS (the IDL contact, which tells the ECU that you've completely let off the throttle) may be flakey. Does just giving the car a teeny amount of throttle fix the issue? How 'bout you just sit in the driveway and pop the throttle and let it go back to idle? If the IDL was flakey, you'd probably see the idle start going wack every once and a while.
Could also be the EGR staying open longer than it should. That sort of EGR problem tends to be more of the "I was crusing down the highway then let off the throttle to get off on the entrance ramp and my car died", 'tho. Going slowly then transitioning to idle and having problems doesn't tend to be EGR.
Last night when I came home it started to shutter in the driveway. I just let it shutter for about 10 seconds and then it died. When I went to start it, it would not fire unless I touched the gas a bit. When it was running I let off the gas and the idle began to dip again but it did not die. Slowly the engine began to irratically climb to the expected rpm of between 700 and 800. This morning it started right up and I had no problems today. However, I did notice that after the engine was warmed up the rpm's were high, around 1200, that's new. Although I removed and cleaned the IAC, do you think the magnetic pickup in this valve is beginning to fail? I wish the check engine light would go on so I could get a code.
Does it only die or low idle until warmed up? Basically, does it ever idle correctly?
It just started like a week ago. Turn on the car and it just dies. Turn it on again and press on the gas to let the car warm up to temperature. Let go of the gas, it begins idling at atleast 400rpm with a little bit of shaking. Lights are dim if the gas isn't press on but if the gas is pressed on, the lights goes on bright. Could this be the alternator being faulty? I just had my battery tested yesterday at Autozone and it shows 100% and 12.66 volt. They said it could be the alternator.
Regarding the ECT, I recently changed it on my 2000 4 cyl. HOWEVER, I had the opposite problem you have. When it malfunctioned it told the ECU the engine was cold and the RPMs spiked and held at 2000 for 2-20 minutes. I got mine at PepBoys for $29 and it's a 10 minute job to swap it out.
Here is an update to my issue. I changed the ECT sensor and it had no effect. This morning I could not get the car to idle and run. I have changed the ECT, removed and cleaned the IAC, cleaned the throttle body. Also ran a can of sea foam through the tank. I unplugged the ECT when the engine was warm to see if I got a bad sensor, it had no effect. Baby number 2 is coming and I need to get this car running for my wife. HELP!
Here is an update to my issue. I changed the ECT sensor and it had no effect. This morning I could not get the car to idle and run. I have changed the ECT, removed and cleaned the IAC, cleaned the throttle body. Also ran a can of sea foam through the tank. I unplugged the ECT when the engine was warm to see if I got a bad sensor, it had no effect. Baby number 2 is coming and I need to get this car running for my wife. HELP!
Cool, the problem is getting worse (not being a smartass -- intermittent problems are a bitch to troubleshoot).
How 'bout popping off the intake hose while this is happening, and taking a look at what the throttle valve is doing. If you have to, can even run around town with the hose off for a bit (although you'll sound like some sort of low-end performance car) while you wait for it to happen (not that I'd personally do it -- but I'm a little paranoid about stuff being sucked into my intake).
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