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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-28-2010, 06:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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A Part that Adam Needs to Make.

Ok so here is the story. Back in October my cam was in a hit and run at my girlfriends Home Coming Dance. That #@$^%$@ was driving a the Dodge SUV. Forgot its name off the top of my head. Anyway resulting damage was ruined front left Fender, Fender liner, Front left coilover was blown, and Cracked Steering Knuckle. Still trying to figure out how the wheel and tire survived.... took it to Ye Olde Wheel Shop which is a wheel restoration shop in lower MD and for sure... it was true.

Anyway, I decided to go with a stronger and more durable coilover set this round. Thats right people. Ksport's GT Pro Line. Some difference to take note here. There is no aluminum except the pillow mount. Rest is Steer. the other thing, rear sway bar mount is welded to the lower strut mount. And finally, the rear lower mount has the link ups for the brake lines.

So Adam or anyone else here is where you come in. I go to hook up my rear sway bar link arms AND.....its 3 inches off. Anyone got any ideas on an adjustable rear sway bar link arm?!

Also side note for those with CF hoods. I got a set of Tein Hood Dampers for a 92-95 Civic I'm going to try out. I'll let you all know how that goes after I finish the GT Pro's install.

Here some pics for you all to see what I am talking about.







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Old 01-28-2010, 06:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Try jacking up the wheel hub assembly until it lines up and then bolt it in.
or
Put the wheels on and lower it down so it lines up.

Is the other side link already bolted on or is it long on both sides?
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If the links really need to be shortened, determine the length they needs to be. cut a section out of the middle and insert each end into a steel sleeve and weld each end. That is the simple way of puttin it and a competent machinist-welder can do the job properly for you. I have had several parts modified over the years with great success.

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Old 01-28-2010, 06:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No the other side is not linked. Had to brake the other sides link arm car is was rusted on the the old coilovers.

The other thing is I could to that with the current springs...however they are the wrong ones. Ksport f*ed up big time, gave me 7.5 kg/mm for the fronts and 4kg/mm for the backs..... i ordered 9/7s. the 7's would be so stiff that i could get about an inch and a half before the car comes off the jack stands.
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyeri View Post
If the links really need to be shortened, determine the length they needs to be. cut a section out of the middle and insert each end into a steel sleeve and weld each end. That is the simple way of puttin it and a competent machinist-welder can do the job properly for you. I have had several parts modified over the years with great success.
building an adjustable set would be even easier. well maby not much easier but better.

Bob, i thought of this today. It doesnt mater if another vehicles adjustables wont fit. all youd have to do is get the adjustables and the same diameter rod at the correct-ish legnth and thread each end. done and adjustable sway bar preload!
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think your right Rob. I just dont know what car has the same hole size as the camry. any help?
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1996 XLE V6 Camry, KSport GT Pro 9/7, TRD RSB, E153 5spd conversion, Gen 3 front end conversion, OBX Headers, Megan Cat Back, TRD M62 Supercharger
Supercharger whine > ex girlfriends whine
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3329124
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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youll prolly have to contact them and ask the diameter.
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