95 Camry cutting out primarily when warm - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

yoyo9598 · 02-01-2010, 04:03 PM

Hello
My 95 Camry (automatic/4 cyl) will not idle when warm and put in gear (when it is cold and idling fast it seems to run fine). At stoplights I put it in neutral or it will die.

What has been done:
Cleaned and then replaced IAC (entire throttle body was replaced and all that goes with it). Cleaning out the IAC bogged it down more which is why replaced it all.

Cleaned the EGR valve and it still acted the same. Next, disconnected the vacuum hose on top of EGR valve and plugged hose with screw-- still had the same problem so adjusted the idle to 1100 rpms and it runs much better with the hose disconnected. Runs fine as long as idle does not fall below 1100 rpms. If it goes below ~900 rpms when in gear, it dies (but again, when in neutral/park it seems to idle fine).
No Engine light is on.
PCV has suction but engine didnt die when plugged with finger (one link said something about this).

Please help. I am an automotively challenged female and it is actually my dad who has been doing all of the hard work. I am at the point where I just want to take it in for diagnosis but given all of the blood/sweat/time he has put in to this he'd like to figure it out (he typically always fixes his vehicles and only takes them to the mechanic as a last resort0.

Is there a way to trouble shoot if it is 02 sensor (which one?), ECT, MAF, EGR VSV.... OMG help!!!

Appreciate any help/direction you can give to pinpoint.

Thank you! Nicole

chronoti · 02-01-2010, 08:58 PM

did your dad make sure the egr was closed when it was disconnected? have him check the ignition coil when warm.

when was the last time since a tune up?

yoyo9598 · 02-04-2010, 10:17 AM

Quote:

did your dad make sure the egr was closed when it was disconnected

are you asking me if he checked to confirm EGR was functioning properly when he disconnected it? Meaning that it should be closed when disconnected? I know that he took it out and cleaned it but it wasn't that dirty and he said it seemed to be opening and closing when it was connected.

UPDATE:
I drove it yesterday and it was mostly fine until it warmed up other than when i would let off of the gas it would cut out here and there . When it was warm when I would first push on the gas (after being stopped at lights) it would barely move and act flooded and take it a bit of time to drive normally (it would go very slow and chug along and then all of a sudden it would take off). It seems unless my foot is steady on the gas it is not happy.

I will ask him about the ignition coil--I hadn't seen it mentioned as something to check, does what I describe above still seem an indication of a possible ignition coil issue?

Thank you: headbang:

csaxon · 02-04-2010, 12:55 PM

Simple tests: EGR VALVE . Disconnect the vacuum hose to the egr valve.. Drive your car and see if its fixed. This will light the check engine light, when you’re done with the test, disconnect the battery to clear the light.

ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (ECT). To confirm this connect a voltmeter to the ECT sensor and check the resistance (ohms). Turn on the car let it warm and watch the ohm readings. They should decrease as the car warms up. If the readings start going up and down erratically it means that the ECT sensor is gone.
These erratic readings are interpreted by the ECU like low coolant temp and creates an enriched engine condition ( to much gas ) and the car will do a warm stall. If that's the case, buy a new ECT sensor and install it. You remove the old one and put the new one on with a bit of Teflon tape.

yoyo9598 · 02-04-2010, 01:49 PM

EGR vac hose is currently disconnected (mentioned in first posting)

I have seen the ECT mentioned in a few different links and will have him check that.
Someone also mentioned Ignition coil but ECT sounds like it is easier to check.

What do you think about the ignition coil suggestion? I saw in other posts that if it is the ignition coil that it typically means it will have issues starting (which I havent really experienced).

Thank you so much!!

chronoti · 02-04-2010, 07:47 PM

well the coil might give an issue when it warms up and there is a small short in the coil making it less efficienct, i wount hurt to check resistance while your checking the ect.

AlmightyCamry777 · 02-05-2010, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yoyo9598

....Someone also mentioned Ignition coil but ECT sounds like it is easier to check.

What do you think about the ignition coil suggestion? I saw in other posts that if it is the ignition coil that it typically means it will have issues starting (which I havent really experienced).

Thank you so much!!

I think if the coil were the problem the engine would act the same way hot or cold. unless the coil were cracked or worn out, then its possible heat could raise the resistance through it. But i think that's unlikely that would cause your stalling problem. You can check the coil with a v.o.m. for resistance, there are links here for the factory manual that tells you how. ( It is easy if you know where to put the probes and what number you want to see on the ohm scale.)

One thing that's probably certain, it's not a fuel problem, but a problem with some electronic part that supplies fuel or spark. This year car has OBD so im surprised your check engine light isnt on and throwing a code for you to read.

Things to check: EGR valve -i know you cleaned it, but they are problematic to clean since you can't take it apart. Since the engine runs better with the egr disconnected, that's a big clue. i'd find a junkyard unit that seemed good then soak it in solvent overnight before blowing it out with air, bolt it on then see if the engine performance changes. If it does then you know what to replace. and at worst you only spent $10 and now know you need a new egr valve.

MAF sensor

cold start valve, if fitted (if your engine has one, its possible its spitting fuel into the engine when it doesn't need it.)

A very bad vacuum leak (cracked, missing, or mis-routed hoses or bad brake booster.)

Quote:

PCV has suction but engine didnt die when plugged with finger (one link said something about this).

The engine doesn't necessarily have to stall when you do that, but the idle should change. PCV valve is a simple contraption, and it is one possible, but unlikely, cause for stalling, they rarely go bad! Pull it out of its hole, shake it, if it clicks when you shake it, it is good. if it doesnt click, replace it (they can't really be cleaned.)

Mike Gerber · 02-05-2010, 01:56 PM

I would not only check the resistance of the ignition coil for being in spec, but I would also remove it from the distributor and inspect it for cracks. The coils are a common problem on the first 3 generations of Camry as they rack up a lot of miles on them. You never said how many miles are on this car. They can allow the car to run fine when cold and then cause problems as things heat up.

Mike

yoyo9598 · 02-06-2010, 06:04 PM

160,000 miles

Replaced the Engine Coolant Temp sensor--once the car warmed up it started cutting out, it seems when I shift it into gear it dies more quickly than if it is in park or neutral but even when in park/neutral it eventually does the same thing (it starts cutting out and then dies).

I dont think EGR is the problem because vac hose was disconnected and it did the same thing once warmed up.

He said he already did the shake test on the PCV and it clicked

I will search for info on the MAF (I assume that is a mass air flow sensor) and try to determine what/if this car has a cold start on it.

Dad is now having a drink which means we are done for the evening

Thank you for your time/patience/suggestions I appreciate it.