3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I've noticed that the Camry doesn't have a whole lot of power output. I've noticed it mostly when I brake: the headlights will dim, the blowers in the vents will lessen (only if it's on high), the dash lights will dim. All of this is not especially noticeable, but I notice it, and it drives me nuts. Anyone else experiencing this?
Will putting in a new alternator with higher amps eliminate this problem and are there alternator upgrades that are direct bolt ins?
how old is the alt you have now? ddi you check the connections for corrosion just in case?
the big upgrade is to use the landcruiser alternator which i believe is the same as the sequoia, SC, GS and LS 400 (1uz). im not sure if this can be used on the 4cyl though, i believe it can.
I have the same issue on my es300 1mz, I have changed the alt and batter and it still dims when braking. I changed my positive cable to the starter to a heaver gauge and it helped a bit. I still have to change the dinki negative cable.
how old is the alt you have now? ddi you check the connections for corrosion just in case?
the big (direct fit) upgrade is to use the landcruiser alternator which i believe is the same as the sequoia, SC, GS and LS 400 (1uz). im not sure if this can be used on the 4cyl though, i believe it can.
Here I fixed this for you.
The stock charging system should be able to handle almost everything you can throw at it with stock equipment. The only time I can get mine to dim without my sub woofer going is when I roll up the windows and they hit the top of the track and I continue to hold the switch down loading the window motor. I have a slightly larger than stock Exide wet cell battery though, but not much larger than stock, and some 0ga grounds with Knukonceptz cable.
Take a multimeter and start probing around. See what the voltage is at the headlights when you hit the brakes. Do the same test at the alternator. If you see roughly the same voltage drop at the alternator and at the headlights, then it's an alternator problem. Otherwise (which I consider more likely than the alternator) you've got something else going on, such as corroded connections.
how old is the alt you have now? ddi you check the connections for corrosion just in case?
the big upgrade is to use the landcruiser alternator which i believe is the same as the sequoia, SC, GS and LS 400 (1uz). im not sure if this can be used on the 4cyl though, i believe it can.
I just bought the vehicle a year ago; I'm assuming that the alternator is the original, but I'm not sure of its age. I didn’t really check close for corrosion, but the engine bay is very clean; there’s nothing very obvious.
Does it matter what year landcruiser I pull from? I'm figuring a 2001...
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirThomas88
My lights dim only for an instant when the brake lights turn on, then they brighten up again.
Yeah, that's what mine do, so it's not like it's a major problem as much as it is just an annoyance.
The engine is pretty clean, so there aren’t any obvious corrosions, but I’ll have to get a multimeter and see where I’m actually losing the power. Replacing cables is probably much cheaper than the alternator! Are there common places to look? I figure it has to be somewhere central because it seems like all of the electrically powered things are affected by the brakes.
Sorry to be a n00b, but where can I look to find out what the engine abbreviations mean (3vz, 1mz, mz, etc?)
Maniac Electric Motors (google it) sells very well done stock and high output rebuilds for the I 4. New hardware, brushes, regulator, tight bearings, refinished case and turned armature. 80 bucks, after core return for the 90 amp, and they supply a prepaid UPS return label. BUT FIRST check all your high currect connections at BOTH ends, you should see less than .1 ohm across any of them. Voltage measurements on high current paths can be misleading unless you are looking for "drop under load". You have negative battery terminal to body and to engine block paths to look at as well as the positive terminal. Toyota terminals bolt to the wire as well as the battery post, it is a good system but needs to be clean. If there is a bogus aftemarket clamp on either, change it out. The good thing about the Toyota terminals is that even IF through lack of care, the terminal gets corroded, IT can be changed out without changing the wire OR putting on one of those 99 cent specials.
um.....thanks? i kinda figured that was implied, maybe not.
Quote:
The stock charging system should be able to handle almost everything you can throw at it with stock equipment. The only time I can get mine to dim without my sub woofer going is when I roll up the windows and they hit the top of the track and I continue to hold the switch down loading the window motor. I have a slightly larger than stock Exide wet cell battery though, but not much larger than stock, and some 0ga grounds with Knukonceptz cable.
I also have never had a problem with the stock system, the upgraded alternator is for people running big sound systems. i had 2 small subs and liek a 1000 watt amp and had no problems.
I'd point my fingers toward age and then consider upgrading the wires as suggested.
I also have never had a problem with the stock system, the upgraded alternator is for people running big sound systems. i had 2 small subs and liek a 1000 watt amp and had no problems.
I'd point my fingers toward age and then consider upgrading the wires as suggested.
Thanks! Good to know. I've got a buddy who understands electrical systems a little better than I who said he'd be willing to help me find out where I'm losing the power. Glad I decided to ask questions here before I just went and bought a new alternator. Hopefully it'll just be a matter of swapping out some older connections and I won't have to replace the alternator after all.
Bigbird, I did notice that you're running a 6cyl. Are the 6cyl electrical systems the same as the 4cyl, or could the loss of power be more common with the 4cyls because of different wiring/alternator/etc? Just thinking out loud.
I noticed this problem too in both my 1992 Camry I4 and my dad's 1998 Camry I4. Only thing "upgraded" in my 1992 was a JVC headunit and the 1998 has Alpine Type-S speakers all over and now my JVC headunit.
Major difference though is that now Im noticing that when Im at a light with my blinker on, the dash lights are dimming everytime I hear the "ding-ding" of the blinker. Would this be cause to find an alternator upgrade? Or is it normal?
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